mZimm

I know it seems like there are tons of threads saying their car won't start, and I apologize if this is identical to another thread. I attempted to find a solution through searching but I couldn't find an answer that didn't involve replacing the plugs or coils. So alas, another thread...

EDIT: 2004 Automatic Transmission, 77000 miles. I haven't had the car long so I can't say what has been replaced and what has been done to it. There is not a CEL at any point during the process aside from when the car stalls and all panel lights come on. Air filter is clean, oil is fresh, use only premium gasoline.

Starting about three weeks ago I would have instances where my 8 would stall when coming to a stop. The first two or three times it happened the car started right back up no problem. I knew I needed to replace my plugs and coils and then when it happened once and the car wouldn't start after I knew I had to do it ASAP. After some problems replacing the coils and plugs details here, I finally got it all taken care of yesterday. The car started right away, whereas before replacing the coils, plugs and wires it would usually be very hard to start. I definitely felt an improvement in low end power and considered my problem solved. However, this afternoon once again my car stalled while slowing down and then wouldn't start.

Everything I know about the problem:
1) Each time it has happened I have felt a significant loss of power for a few miles and then the next time I slow down to ~5-10mph the car just shuts off
2) After the car turns off, once I come to a stop and put the car in park, the starter spins and gets power but it won't start
3) Each time this has happened I have abandoned the car and returned ~2 hours later and it has started the first time. It then idles a bit rough but I have been able to drive it home no problem
4) I have not picked up an odor of gas or any other indication that the engine has flooded
5) It happened before and after the replacement of plugs and coils, so not only does that take out that as a problem, but also removes installer error as a possible culprit

Thank you for taking the time to help me resolve this problem, I'm at wit's end at this point.

Old Rotor

Please give us the history on your car, year MT/AT,miles etc just anything you can add... The service it's had parts replaced. Have you Seafoamed it? Look at the bottom of the page and see what others did..

mZimm

Edited first post to include this information as well. 2004 Automatic Transmission, 77000 miles. I haven't had the car long so I can't say what has been replaced and what has been done to it. There is not a CEL at any point during the process aside from when the car stalls and all panel lights come on. Air filter is clean, oil is fresh, use only premium gasoline. I'm planning on picking up some seafoam and MAF cleaner after work today and doing that tonight. I'm hopeful that it will solve my problems but not too convinced at this point.

drfreeze913

I had the EXACT same problem a couple days ago too. I have an 04 AT with 67k miles. I stopped at an intersection and it just randomly stalled. I was able to start it up after a couple minutes but I had to rev as soon as the engine caught on because the starters would turn but the engine would only stay on for a second otherwise then cut again. The same thing happened at a second intersection so as soon as i got it running again, I pulled into a nearby lot and the idle was extremely choppy. I ditched my car there for the day and went to drive it home at night and it was perfectly fine so I am thoroughly confused as to what is wrong. My oil is running low so I'm getting that changed today and seeing if it happens again and if so, I'm taking it straight to my dealer.

I've done research and found a whole slew of possible problems which include changing the spark plugs and coils, something with the IAC motor/sensor (still researching that). Others have said the engine failure was due to using 5w-20 oil (but I don't really believe that since it is info on the internet and there's people on both sides of that argument claiming they know stuff). Other people have gotten completely new engines... So I don't want to start replacing stuff until I know exactly what's wrong.

As for you mZimm, I seafoamed my rx8 about a month and a half ago so I don't think that will help you with this problem, since I'm having the same thing. If you do use the MAF cleaner though, let me know if you notice any improvement or if you stall again. Or if you find any info on this problem, I'll be checking back

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

time for a compression check

mZimm

I didn't check the thread today while I was at work so while I was on the way back I picked up some seafoam and MAF cleaner from Advance Auto. As soon as I pulled into my driveway the car stalled once again and wouldn't restart. So I pushed it into the garage and pulled up the seafoam DIY. When I seafoamed the engine there was TONS of white smoke and a terrible smell for a while. I then took it out to drive for around 10 minutes and it seemed that it was driving and idling smoother, leading me to think that possibly my problems were over. However, the last couple minutes on my way home the power seemed to decrease significantly and then when I pulled into my driveway once again the car stalled and then wouldn't restart.

I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem...if I need to get a replacement engine then that's what I need to do, but at this point I don't want to pay to get a compression check if there are other things that may be causing this. Any further suggestions?

mZimm

drfreeze913, I did clean my MAF today at the same time as cleaning the engine with seafoam, so I can't really say how much it helped vs what the seafoam did. I definitely noticed improved low end power and idling after though.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

$80 + 1 hour = your compression test

Old Rotor

Insist on a copy of all the info....... you need the speed the engine was cranking.

mZimm

What do you mean by this? I've called a couple Mazda dealers around here and they're quoting me $95 diagnostic fee.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

oh ok sorry

let me tag on an extra $15

$95+hour of work = compression test

mZimm

I managed to get the car to the dealer today, but of course they don't do any diagnostic work on Saturdays, so I left it there for the weekend and its going to be tested Monday...at this point I'm actually hoping for a new motor.

jorgelcrespo

I have the same problem. I was told that the AT cooling house cause that. I replaced and fix the problem for a while but still coming back. I replace the faulty coil and the problem comming back. I have change the spark wires. I hope that someone know the solution. I have a 2004 AT with a little more than 100k miles.

mZimm

The dealer got back to me and said that the compression test came back in the 7s and they couldn't find anything wrong with the car including after a test drive. So I'm incredibly confused and frustrated at this point because the car stalled almost every time I drove it before bringing it in and now they are wanting me to pay $150 for the test without anything done to the car. Any suggestions? I asked for the RPM numbers and he said he'd have to get back to me so I'm waiting on that at this point.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Uhhhh 7's is below spec at cranking speed of 250 and up. Please tell them to consult their factory service manual. it is on page 11 of the engine sections portion of the engine details portion of the FSM. Minimum is 6.9 at 250 rpm standard is 8.5 at 250 rpm. Your engine is dam near close to dying.

Also please get the exact numbers for each face of each chamber and the cranking speeds. In fact get a copy of that in writing, if they wont give it to you go to a different dealership

Old Rotor

You paid and got nothing to show for your $$$. Where is you receipt with all the ### you paid to SEE. Get it from the service manager and let us help you as "shadycrew31" said 7 sounds bad . Print this out and ask to have it done.


http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-08-1924g.pdf

mZimm

I went and talked to the service technician today and he told me that the tester that they used doesn't do any sort of electronic printouts and simply shows the numbers as the tests are being done. I argued that I wanted some sort of a record of what the compression numbers were but he claims that they couldn't do that. He told me that all of the compressions were in the mid to high 7s and that the test was done at spec of 250. I argued that I didn't want to take it without anything being done but he assured me that if I have more problems he would take it back and not charge me. He said that they checked most of the things in that TSB but since I already replaced my plugs, coils and wires and cleaned out the engine they didn't check those things. I'm pretty disappointed in coming away with nothing, but the car did drive home fine so I'm unsure as to what basis I have to argue with at this point. I'd like to get another test done at a different dealer but paying $142 again isn't really feasible for me at this point.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

wow. I would politely request that he do it again and get all the numbers down for you.

My dealership only charges $90 for the test. Mazdatrix charges $50.

I sat there right next to the car and watched as he did it to make sure everything was done properly.

gh0st

only $50 for a compression check? i know where im going tomorrow... then again, im having hard warm starts... really no point in doing it i guess

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Are you in Socal?

gh0st

yeah.. im in fontana. my motor has overheated a bunch on times on the track. i have no doubt in my mind that i need a rebuild. funny thing is, i have my last blown motor sitting in my garage so i can rebuild one while my other is still running but im scared to do what you did. i simply dont know enouph about cars....

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

bahh you can do it.

Whats the worst that will happen? you mess up and do it over again?

gh0st

it all comes down to $$$. ive been doing research.... ill need:
rotary stand adapter $55
engine stand $39.99
cherry picker $200
borrow the flywheel nut
borrow the dowel pin remover
mazdatrix seal kit $1500
misc tools/lube/ solvents $200

minimum cost of about $2000 with me doing it. then i drive it down the street and boom. gotta do it all over again cause i KNOW ill fudge something up.

or i can spend $2000 at a junk yard for a motor with about 20k miles on it and drive it for another 20-50k miles. i track my car quite a bit and motors usually last me about 25k-30k miles.

gh0st

when are you gonna do your DIY. if you do one, ill try it out... F it

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

I have all the tools you can rent from me for a fraction of the cost. get the rebuild kit from Atkins.

I am never doing a DIY it would take days to write up and I honestly think people shouldn't attempt this. its better to just get a rebuild form a reputable builder.

In any event how much would you want for that blown engine?