battery or alternator?
08-12-2009, 03:55 PM
#1
battery or alternator?
Been having a couple issues which I'm rather sure are due to a battery or alternator issue. I'm assuming it's not the battery because I replaced it less than a year and a half ago, though that doesn't rule it out.
The first time I noticed anything was yesterday when my stereo sound stopped and the display dimmed to the point it was almost off. I was in the car for a while after that and did not have any other issues and it started up fine a few times before finally turning it off for the night. Then today comes and when I go to start up, the car hesitated to start. Now I know that's a frequently mentioned problem, and from time to time I have the long starts, but this time it sounded weak, not just long. Usually it sounds fine, I just have to hold it for a few seconds longer than normal but it definitely sounded weaker today. The last issue could be unrelated or not even a problem, but it's something I noticed since I'm worried about something being wrong. When at idle the AC blows significantly weaker than when I rev it. After a while, it needs more revs before the "full power" returns.
My guess is that it's the battery since it seems to be an issue with storing power... any ideas? If issues persist I'll definitely have it checked out... there's an autozone down the road and I believe they can test batteries for free.
The first time I noticed anything was yesterday when my stereo sound stopped and the display dimmed to the point it was almost off. I was in the car for a while after that and did not have any other issues and it started up fine a few times before finally turning it off for the night. Then today comes and when I go to start up, the car hesitated to start. Now I know that's a frequently mentioned problem, and from time to time I have the long starts, but this time it sounded weak, not just long. Usually it sounds fine, I just have to hold it for a few seconds longer than normal but it definitely sounded weaker today. The last issue could be unrelated or not even a problem, but it's something I noticed since I'm worried about something being wrong. When at idle the AC blows significantly weaker than when I rev it. After a while, it needs more revs before the "full power" returns.
My guess is that it's the battery since it seems to be an issue with storing power... any ideas? If issues persist I'll definitely have it checked out... there's an autozone down the road and I believe they can test batteries for free.
08-13-2009, 08:55 AM
#7
Not to quibble with my esteemed Shinka associate, but when checking alternator output it's fairly irrelevant what else you have turned on. Again, you're checking its output capability which should be in the neighborhood of 14 VDC. The headlights (and coils/sparkplugs) would be draining the battery to be sure but the instantaneous alternator 'makeup' required would be negligible.
With the ignition and lights, etc. off you can check your battery's potential, which should be near 12 VDC.
With the ignition and lights, etc. off you can check your battery's potential, which should be near 12 VDC.
08-14-2009, 05:17 PM
#8
well, I hadn't thought about checking the battery visually before bringing it to autozone, so as soon as I pulled the battery cover off it was apparent that there's a bit of a leak and that the battery needs to be replaced. Lots of corrosion on the terminals as well. My AP was showing 13-14 for battery voltage though.
08-14-2009, 06:17 PM
#9
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
time for a dry cell battery. 
hopefully it's just the battery and not the alternator. Those damn things are expensive.
(ask me how I know.
)
hopefully it's just the battery and not the alternator. Those damn things are expensive.
(ask me how I know.
)
08-15-2009, 10:07 AM
#10
Not to quibble with my esteemed Shinka associate, but when checking alternator output it's fairly irrelevant what else you have turned on. Again, you're checking its output capability which should be in the neighborhood of 14 VDC. The headlights (and coils/sparkplugs) would be draining the battery to be sure but the instantaneous alternator 'makeup' required would be negligible.
With the ignition and lights, etc. off you can check your battery's potential, which should be near 12 VDC.
With the ignition and lights, etc. off you can check your battery's potential, which should be near 12 VDC.
many many car shop manual will tell you to at least turn the head lights on before giving that poor alternator a test
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shankapotamus3
Series I Trouble Shooting
28
03-14-2021 03:53 PM
Evan Gray
Series I Trouble Shooting
0
09-26-2015 12:30 PM