Razz1

Yep, that's what 'I was gonna say. I've had problems with motorcycles and my van.

The Van was caused by theafter market stereo. The digital clock was drawing too much power. There were two fuses. One for the radio and one for the clock. That's how
I found out.

I don't know if they make them with two fuses anymore.

slaxer07

SCO was right on the money, just got home to check the service manual and Standard current is 20mA max.

prbeswick

Thanks for the detailed run down.

From my previous notes you may notice that I've now found that the draw is around 300 ma until the "room" fuse is removed. This is the bottom fuse in the fuse box in the LH door jam. The draw then drops to just over 10 ma. So the excessive draw is somewhere down that circuit. I've found, so far that the radio station settings, and the clock time are in that leg, because after I've pulled that fuse those settings are defaulted back to original. My suspicion is the GPS unit but haven't been able to verify that yet.

Your comments and help are appreciated.

prbeswick email prb@beswick.com

prbeswick

Last night in he garage with everything quiet I tried pulling the "room" fuse again.

I notice a click sound that comes from somewhere around the rear sat.

Could this be a grunt from the "Evaporatiive System Leak Detector Pump" ?

Might this be a circuit or relay system that's drawing the extra 280 ma?

Any suggestions'd appreciated

Prbeswick prb@beswick.com

Gomez

WTH is that?

prbeswick

Apparently it's a pump gadget that senses "fumes" coming from the gas tank and pumps 'em to a safe place.

It shows up on page 19 of the electrical circuits.

Gomez

Oh yeah, I found it. The extra draw could be the Nav, if you have it. It's between the rear seats....

prbeswick

Thanks Gomez

Today Thu It still is drawing 300 ma and battery voltage was down to 11.7 volts where 12.7 was full charge on Mon..

Anyway, I started to explore the NAV and ran out of time. I got as far as removing 5 self tapping screws in the back that hold the center console in place.

That allowed me to lift the back end of the console and see the NAV uni but not disconnect it. I didnt find what holds down the front end of the console at the gearshift end.

I didn't want to risk any damage and didn't have any more time. Can you explain to me how the front end of the console is held down and how to access it so I can move the console cover away or far enough to onhook the NAV??

Your help'd be appreciated

prbeswick prb@beswick.com

kachud

I am looking to replace the battery in my 8. I have heard a lot of good things about optima batteries. The kicker is that optima claims that they do not carry a compatable battery. Some people have used the red top group 35R and others have recomended the yellow top 34. The problem is I can not find the yellow top 34. All the web sites have 34 plus another number. What kind of batteries do you guys recomend?

Go48

Mazda's recommended replacement battery is the Interstate MTP-35. It is less expensive than any of the Optima solutions and quite adequate for the car. Just make sure that whatever battery you go with that the air space at the front of the battery box is not blocked per the following service bulletin.

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...42-04-1429.pdf

slaxer07

If this car is still under warranty you can save much time and hassle and just take it to the dealership everything should be covered.

prbeswick

It's been to the dealer twice and they claim there's nothing wrong. They put in a MTP 35 battery and yet the battery voltage falls below cranking voltage after about a week. Since I only use the car occasionally on weekends this is a drag or better said a PINTA.

So with no help from the dealer I started to find out the details on battery drain. The rx8 service manual says the drain s/b 0.020 amps (20 ma) max. My car is drawing 300 ma . I found that when I pull the "Room" fuse the bottom one in the door jam fuse block down by the clutch pedal on a LHD car, the draw comes within spec.

The circuit diagram shows lots of stuff on the Room fuse and the general consensus from comments in this forum is that its the NAV or possibly an aftermarket Audio amp.
Pulling the room fuse causes the clock, radio and odometer to reset another PINTA.

I'm in the process now of trying to verify that the 280ma plus draw is the NAV . That being the case I wonder if I can install a switch for the NAV altho that may wipe out the destination lists etc. but a better compromise as far as I can see.

I need help in figuring how to unhook the front edge of the rear console between the seats. Is it to do with the tabs Gomez mentions in the install of the short shifter?

ANy help or constructive comments'd be appreciated

prbeswick prb@beswick.com Newington NH USA

sco

To get the console off you have to take the gear **** then pop the cover around the gear stick. You need to put a screw driver wrapped in PVC tape between the cover and the fake aluminium trim and pry carefully. Once you get one corner up you should be able to lift it right off. Once you do that you'll find around a bunch of screws which are holding it down.

prbeswick

What I'm after is only the rear part of the console The body manual sect 11 shows it to be a front part around the gearshift and a rear part begining roughly at the cup holders and back to between the rear seats.

The unit appears to be separable but the attaching fasteners in the area between the front seats
arn't clearly depicted.

This where I need guidance or help

prbeswick

sco

It's easiest to take the whole center console out as one piece. I've done it a few times.

prbeswick

I'm on vacation overseas for 5 weeks so I'm leaving it with the dealer with the expressed understanding that they'll wait a week before trying to start it. Then they'll actually see the poblem first hand. I've also written a detailed explanation that 'shows' the NAV DVD to be running all the time. There must be a defective circuit or switch to shut it down when not in use.

Here's hoping. If anyone would like a copy of what I've written to them send me an email and I'll be glad to send it along. email me at prb@beswick.com

prbeswick

Gomez

How very courageous of you......and after a week it'll become the dealership parts van, smoko ride and apprentice training apparatus. After all, it'd be a shame to have this nice RX-8 sitting there gathering dust!! It's a responsible dealer who blows the cobwebs out of the customers rotary during an extended dealership visit....

sco

Post it note on the dash with the current ODO reading can help to discourage that.

Gomez

.....and no responsible dealer would even think about resetting the odometer after a 250 mile ride up through the mountains....

Aseras

tripemeter maybe but odo is another beast.. you can pull the gauge fuse while driving and do a kam reset and it'll not show up IIRC. That's about it.

Gomez

The dealers have the equipment to reset your odometer to any figure they wish to.....all they need is the time and the desire...

The only time they normally reset it is if your instrument cluster is replaced. Then they input the correct mileage as read from the old cluster.

prbeswick

I'm back from Asia after 5 weeks. I left the car w/ the dealer including a detailed write up of the problem.

After they tried it for two weeks they agreed and applied to Mazda techies. The result was that the NAV Hard Disc drive wasn't properly shutting down after the car was turned off. Mazda replaced the NAV unit and it seems to be OK now.

I fetched it from them on the 15th and eft it in my garage until today the 28th. 13 days and it started up just fine with
no indication of a low battery.

Gomez

Sorted.....I can sleep soundly again...... . Glad you got it fixed.

Go48

Glad to hear that they actually discovered the problem Paul. Of course, you pointed them in the right direction. Great!

Brice-RX8

I just went and bought the MTP-35 battery on my own and installed it, seems to make the starter sound like it isn't struggling anymore for juice. I bought the battery myself because I just wanted it as a safety feature that I will not have to worry in the future. The battery cost me $75USD, and I installed it all the way to the back of the box, as to block as little as possible of the opening at the bottom that vent cool air in.