MadDog

Does that Mazda tool correct for ambient pressure? I did a compression test on mine a week ago and was really alarmed. I was getting numbers way below spec. Then I realized that my altitude (5500 feet) was the cause. The numbers have to be corrected for the ambient pressure. I was still on the low side, but it was a lot better! Ambient pressure here is about 79% of sea level.

On the overheating issue, it is REALLY easy to overheat these badboys. I was on the way to work once not long ago. The temp was cool - low 70's. I was in traffic, but the car was idling at about 3000 RPM because I had just installed a piggyback and didn't have it configured properly :o ( I'll spare the details). But, after only a couple of minutes (<5) of bumper-to-bumper traffic, the coolant was boiling over. I pulled out the piggyback and went on my merry way. No permanent damage that I can tell.

I'll tell you this, with all the oil and temperature issues, I am about to install a third oil cooler! I've already got it sized and ready to go. Just need to fab some mounting brackets. I read that a good oil cooler can reduce the operating temps by 40degF, although I'm sure that depends on a lot of factors. Probably won't hurt either way, though.

-MD

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

MD, we need a fan cooled oil cooler.

tuj

I don't think the engine overheated first because the first indication anything was amiss was when I saw the battery light. I checked everything else on the display when I saw that. This corresponds to what the guy behind me told me, that he saw something fly off my car at about the same spot on the road when the batt. light came on. My car has never had an issue with temps, flooding, idling, etc.

I'll try to get the rpm's they did the compression test at for each rotor.

MadDog

I kinda doubt that. The AT's might, since they only have one cooler, but I think that the addition of a third cooler would add enough margin to the existing cooling capacity. I'm approaching it from the standpoint that Mazda designed a system that has enough capacity (for the 2-cooler MT anyway) under most conditions. By modding, we add a little more heat to the system. So, I just need to remove a little heat from the system. I feel adding one cooler, although its a VERY efficient one, is going to be enough. This one removes as much heat/hr as a normal cooler does at 1/3 the air speed. That's why I have no plans for a fan on this particular cooler.

Or, you could add fans to the existing oil coolers. Might be the same effect.

-MD

beachdog

When you set up that third oil cooler you might want to set it up with a drain petcock and a schrader valve so you can blow oil out of the coolers and lines and get a thorough, clean oil change.

Please do a DIY for your set up.

Gomez

I don't believe they're readings from a Renesis.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the clarification Gomez. I try as I might to live in the good ole days.
Heck Im wondering if our wimpy starter can CRANK 250rpm!
Olddragger

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

LOL

What's the new starter crank at? I have the OEM original one.

tuj

Latest update: they finished the new belt and oil seal but the car threw a CEL during the test drive. Apparently the 'crank sensor' (which I take to mean the e-shaft position sensor) is the culprit and they are waiting on a new one.

beachdog

Is any or all of this being covered as a warranty repair?

tuj

It was all covered under warranty except the oil change. The ended up replacing a bunch of stuff, including the wiring harness, 2 oil seals, the e-shaft position sensor, the main belt, and they are going to replace the accessory belt at the next oil change. Got the R flash and the heat recall work, it does feel slightly better at 5k and up.

Here's what's got me boggled: the car is handling different. It used to generally understeer in nearly all conditions (I've got a rb front bar) and I couldn't trail-brake at all. Now the car is between neutral to slight oversteer. The last time the car's handling changed was when I got the rb bar installed and an aggressive autox alignment. I've gone over the variables, and the only things I can think of that might affect the handling are:

-the car was towed on a flatbed, maybe the chains bent one of the suspension members?
-the tranny was dropped to install one oil seal.
-the alignment somehow changed with the car being up on the lift.
-maybe its just me?

Any ideas? I noticed this behavior on the street and confirmed it at a 'driver education event.'

LycosV

Did they mess with your tire pressure? That can make a serious difference in under/oversteering. Even if they didn't mess with it, you can change it to get it more the way you like it.

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

Tuj,
Check your rear links. Some tow truck drivers have been bending them,
Paul.