That's not true. According to Devilzero they replaced his control panel too.

The feed back I got was; it's the temp sensor.

But why haven't they fixed the 05's ?

 

We've had some pretty hot days since I got my amplifier replaced - the car is definitely cooling faster, and I usually set it down to 2 or 3 after a few minutes. Used to have to keep it on 4 all the time.

 

What should the temp be coming out of the a/c vent? Seems I always have the fan on "4" to keep the 8 cool.

 

On recirc., the lowest temp setting, postion 4 on fan, the temp should be around 44 degrees. But all cars are different. If it is above 50 you probably have a bad amp.

 

MDRX8, I know you have been having problems with your A/C but when you say that there is a problem with the temp of the air being over 50 that there is a problem, you have to consider some things. 1) How hot it is outside, the A/C is going to be damn cold when it is only 70 outside, when it is 110 it may not be able to cool below 50. 2) Humidity makes it much harder for the A/C to cool as well. 3) RPM of the engine, the A/C is going to cool better when you have the RPM's up (but not too high that the compressor cuts off to help from blowing it up)

Just to say that if the A/C is above 50 that you have a problem is nonsense, there are alot of factors that goes into it working efficiently, like I said the air coming out of my vents is much colder when the temp outside is lower and the humidity is lower, then when it is very humid and 90+ here, big difference and that is even with recirc on, all small engine cars are like this.

 

When going down down the road if its 80 degrees outside it should be below 50. I have seen two other 8's cooling like a iceburg!!

 

Brice, maybe you can come and fix my A/C. Cause Mazda can't.

 

I live in Central Florida and am extremely satisfied with my A/C. Don't even feel the need to tint the windows, and usually have to reduce the fan speed to avoid getting too cold. I would go INSANE if the air didn't work properly. My sympathies to those with crappy, unfixable air.

 

I am not sure if you are being sarcastic or serious. I was just giving some insight on what I know about A/C's. I hope you find out what is wrong with it soon, I am sure they have made sure your coolant is topped off too? Hell, I would thing they would just start replacing everything on the A/C system at this point.

 

Brice just kiddin, the major problem is they need permission from Mazda Tech HQ. Say they replace the compressor and it is not bad the dealership has to eat the cost of the part. So now Mazda has told them to replace the evaporator with a larger one and the expansion valve. I have been at the dealer to see my 8 blow 52 degree air while the one next to mine blow 39 degree air. Mazda Tech needs to let the technicians repair the cars without this crap they have to go through. So if today they figure out I need a drier they have to call Mazda and it usally takes a day or two to get back, then I have to wait for shipping. Just venting!

 

been in the 90's alot in NJ the last 2 weeks. A/C has held up pretty well with the new compressor. but it still oscillates between cold and not so cold every few seconds.

 

MDRX8, cool I hope they figure it out, is this larger evaporator coming off of another model of car, or is this something Mazda has been making a change to? Keep us up to date on any new parts you might come across.

 

does anybody have the part number for the a/c amplifier? my car is stuck on heater only and the dealership wanted to charge me $700 just for the part. i think i can find it cheaper myself.

 

Try this: Mazda Parts - Online Mazda Parts

 

Try ebay for a cheaper alternative and look for this number on the sticker-177600-651 -(or higher)
However, if it's stuck on heater it's a good chance it's the temp control **** that is bad

 

I bought a 2004 and I'm not sure the A/C amp has been replaced.

1) The A/C is not really cold (goes cold to cool in cycles)....symptom of the old AC amp
2) I can go through the update process (holding the defrost and air selector....) and the rear defrost blinks three times like it updated. Should only work if it was a new amp.
3) I pulled the amp out and the number was 177300-7242, which apparently precedes the 177600-1651 number given above. Makes me think it is an old amp.

So everything tells me it is an old AC amp that need replacement except that I can successfully reprogram it by holding the buttons. Can anyone confirm if this is normal for an old AC amp?

 

Before I replaced mine it would not respond in anyway (blinking lights) to the programming process. At the max cold setting of the thermostat, the a/c should switch from fresh air to re-circulation automatically with an updated amp.

 

I went ahead and replaced it with a 177600-1651 that I picked up on e-bay for 35 bucks. Before it was running about 50 F, now it is sub-40 F, so it fixed the problem. Damn that box is a pain to get to...to remove-replace the three screws. The fact that all three screws were present tells me the old one was probably original.