Hey, I'm having a bit of trouble with my A/C and was wondering if anyone knew the answers to a few questions I have. I have searched the forum, but want to be 100% sure that what I will do won't hurt the system or cost me more money to replenish with more coolant. So first, I need to get confirmation that the PDF attached below, which i got from this thread, is correct and applies to my Series 1. If so, my Low Pressure is reading 35PSI(85 °F), according to a gauge on one of those AC recharge cans, and the clutch is staying out but the temperature of the air on "max cool" is not very cold, even when driving. So maybe I need to have some coolant removed? I would have done that but that seems like an awfully low PSI when the canister recommends this range when its 85 °F. I have already tested my AC controls using the head unit and they are OK so I'm assuming it has something to do with the pressure.

Thanks for any insight, sorry that I had to repost this from the new members forum.

 

Screw the can, you can't get an accurate charge using them. Pay someone to do it professionally. Tell them you want an evacuation and recharge but make sure you tell them to skip the leak test. I went to Goodyear last week to have this done and the total was $62 including a lb of r134

 

thanks, I guess I'll do that wish I didn't spend 40$ on that dumb can. Why not a leak test, I mean I'm confident it's not leaking but is it really that much more.

 

I say skip the leak test because that will run you an extra $150-$200 and 2-3 hours of your time depending on where you go and they will most likely push for it as part of the recharge. If you think you have a leak, definitely get it leak tested. In my case, I bought a can and fucked it up. Then had to have it fixed professionally. The evac and recharge took about 30-45 minutes.

 

I went to Firestone and for 140 they did an evac and recharged with new, had a free leaktest and they cover it for 12 mo. Will post about ac performance soon.