Car doesn't turn over, click, or start...stereo and lights don't turn on either ???
#1
Car doesn't turn over, click, or start...stereo and lights don't turn on either ???
My car sat in the garage for a couple weeks. I found out I mistakenly left the key in the on position. When I came back the car was dead so I charged up the battery, however when I turn the key the gauges light up, but the lights and stereo dont work? Also the car doesnt turn over or even attempt to start when I turn the key? I tried jump starting it and nothing worked either...?
#4
When you say the lights are turning on, which lights specifically? Interior, headlights, dash?
Do your doors lock/unlock (with or without the key in the ignition)?
To help narrow it down, we need to find out electrically what works and doesn't.
Of course, this is taken into account that the battery is indeed good.
Do your doors lock/unlock (with or without the key in the ignition)?
To help narrow it down, we need to find out electrically what works and doesn't.
Of course, this is taken into account that the battery is indeed good.
#6
battery is good , lets just say nothing electrical works in the car except the gauges...no lights in or out, doors dont unlock or lock etc, no stereo, nothing, basically nothing works except the gauges
#9
#12
EDIT- I'm correcting my previous post after I thought about it.
There are devices that recieve constant voltage.
This should eliminate relays and the ignition switch.
I would take the battery to Autozone and have them test it.
Its hard to believe that the battery is good after having the key in the ON position for two weeks.
I know you feel its good, but I've been looking through the electrical diagram over and over again trying to find anything else that could cause it.
It seems to always trace back to the battery.
There are devices that recieve constant voltage.
This should eliminate relays and the ignition switch.
I would take the battery to Autozone and have them test it.
Its hard to believe that the battery is good after having the key in the ON position for two weeks.
I know you feel its good, but I've been looking through the electrical diagram over and over again trying to find anything else that could cause it.
It seems to always trace back to the battery.
Last edited by Jon316G; 06-24-2009 at 11:15 PM.
#13
My battery dried up and died recently. I got it serviced i.e. water put into it and charged for a full day (9-5). When I installed it it still wouldn't start and it was testing perfectly. I wasn't happy with it so I got a brand spanking new battery under warranty and it started perfectly. It's important to note that neither of these batteries were stock. Both were aftermarket
#14
After a regular battery 'deep cycles' in this manner it often won't hold a full capacity charge, although on a meter it reads 12v. Instantaneous voltage level and capacity are two different things and you need both. That's why the "cold cranking amps" required to overcome the starter motor's "locked rotor" rating (electrical inertia) is significant.
Bring it to the 'zone or similar to get a capacity check on it.
Bring it to the 'zone or similar to get a capacity check on it.
#15
So your battery may not be good. How do you know its "good". Go buy a new battery and drop it in, see what happens. Worst case scenario, you return the battery.
#16
Huey, good point. I had an idea that my old battery was past it even though the guy tried to convince me otherwise. I knew that if I got a new one it would work. Also the fact that I replaced my coils and plugs might have helped too
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