car stalling after fitment of racing beat duct!! help
#1
car stalling after fitment of racing beat duct!! help
Hi guys,
i just fitted racing beat duct last night, since then the car keeps on stalling when i take it for a drive (but can idle fine in my garage which is flat leveled), as soon as the road inclines a little bit, then it would become jerky and if i put it into neutral, it would stall.
the mods are :
mishimoto/umnitza intake
racing beat duct
microtech lt10-s ran as piggyback
hymee exhaust
high flow cat 100cpsi
okada projects coils
throttle controller
it ran fine until the fitment of rb air duct.. I unplugged the green plug that goes to the black cylinder box thingy, and tap the hose that goes to the intake manifold, with a screw. but still... removed the throttle controller, but still the same..
idles a bit weird sometimes goes up and down, I tried looking for possible vac leak, but couldnt find... cleaned maf sensor as well.. plugs are less than 10,000kms old, and all the mods are less than that kms too.. any ideas?? any input is very appreciated..
I am wondering if it is right to unplug the green plug thingy as the hose that goes to the intake manifold thingy is capped anyway, and in fact i tried fitting it back without the hose connecting to anywhere as vfad has been removed and the intake manifold hose capped.. but still the same..
i just fitted racing beat duct last night, since then the car keeps on stalling when i take it for a drive (but can idle fine in my garage which is flat leveled), as soon as the road inclines a little bit, then it would become jerky and if i put it into neutral, it would stall.
the mods are :
mishimoto/umnitza intake
racing beat duct
microtech lt10-s ran as piggyback
hymee exhaust
high flow cat 100cpsi
okada projects coils
throttle controller
it ran fine until the fitment of rb air duct.. I unplugged the green plug that goes to the black cylinder box thingy, and tap the hose that goes to the intake manifold, with a screw. but still... removed the throttle controller, but still the same..
idles a bit weird sometimes goes up and down, I tried looking for possible vac leak, but couldnt find... cleaned maf sensor as well.. plugs are less than 10,000kms old, and all the mods are less than that kms too.. any ideas?? any input is very appreciated..
I am wondering if it is right to unplug the green plug thingy as the hose that goes to the intake manifold thingy is capped anyway, and in fact i tried fitting it back without the hose connecting to anywhere as vfad has been removed and the intake manifold hose capped.. but still the same..
#3
Done it I think, is it the one where u turn ignition on and tap on the brakes 20 times? I also tried removing the battery wire for a minute... But no luck so far somehow I believe it is vacuum leak, but ca
n't find ..
n't find ..
#4
Because you're ignoring the obvious.
A screw is not a sufficient plug, not to mention it depends on what side of the VFAD line you attempted to cap.
This is why we tell everyone to quit capping at various places and to just cap the VFAD nipple behind the throttle body... so simple everyone should be able to comprehend it.
Go to Autozone, spend a couple dollars on a variety pack of vacuum caps, and find the size that fits snuggly on the VFAD nipple.
If the nipple is capped, it doesn't matter what you do to any of the components.
You can unplug the solenoid and tape the connector off to the side and remove all the hoses, solenoid, and vacuum chamber if you wish.
Why not check your tire pressure too...
Come on... what does resetting the e-shaft profile have anything to do with the intake?
A screw is not a sufficient plug, not to mention it depends on what side of the VFAD line you attempted to cap.
This is why we tell everyone to quit capping at various places and to just cap the VFAD nipple behind the throttle body... so simple everyone should be able to comprehend it.
Go to Autozone, spend a couple dollars on a variety pack of vacuum caps, and find the size that fits snuggly on the VFAD nipple.
You can unplug the solenoid and tape the connector off to the side and remove all the hoses, solenoid, and vacuum chamber if you wish.
Come on... what does resetting the e-shaft profile have anything to do with the intake?
#5
I bought a 4mm cap and covered the nipple behind throttle body, but still the same... no change whatsoever.. what about the green plug which connects to the black cylinder? that is ok to leave it unplugged? basically issue is the same, idles fine, but once u drive it starts to become jerky and when u leave ur foot frm the gas in neutral, it will stall... any otherideas? thanks
Because you're ignoring the obvious.
A screw is not a sufficient plug, not to mention it depends on what side of the VFAD line you attempted to cap.
This is why we tell everyone to quit capping at various places and to just cap the VFAD nipple behind the throttle body... so simple everyone should be able to comprehend it.
Go to Autozone, spend a couple dollars on a variety pack of vacuum caps, and find the size that fits snuggly on the VFAD nipple.
If the nipple is capped, it doesn't matter what you do to any of the components.
You can unplug the solenoid and tape the connector off to the side and remove all the hoses, solenoid, and vacuum chamber if you wish.
Why not check your tire pressure too...
Come on... what does resetting the e-shaft profile have anything to do with the intake?
A screw is not a sufficient plug, not to mention it depends on what side of the VFAD line you attempted to cap.
This is why we tell everyone to quit capping at various places and to just cap the VFAD nipple behind the throttle body... so simple everyone should be able to comprehend it.
Go to Autozone, spend a couple dollars on a variety pack of vacuum caps, and find the size that fits snuggly on the VFAD nipple.
If the nipple is capped, it doesn't matter what you do to any of the components.
You can unplug the solenoid and tape the connector off to the side and remove all the hoses, solenoid, and vacuum chamber if you wish.
Why not check your tire pressure too...
Come on... what does resetting the e-shaft profile have anything to do with the intake?
#6
Do you receive a CEL? If so, flashing or solid and can you retrieve the code?
Check the o-ring under the MAF and ensure its not damaged or missing.
Check the pins on the MAF connector and ensure they aren't pushed in or damaged.
#9
so what shall be done? will a retune solve this? I'm going to have a look at the o ring as well. it sometimes throws a cel but dont know how to retrieve the code... noob...
the microtech is wired using emanage ultimate harnesss as sold by promaz (www.promaz.com.au)
the microtech is wired using emanage ultimate harnesss as sold by promaz (www.promaz.com.au)
#11
just checked the ecu while ignition is on, there is a yellow light (which means tps is calibrated as far as im aware) and red light that blinks which in rx7club.com mentions that it means it triggers a fault code.. could it be?i mean the problem only happens when its being driven, but not when its just sitting in the garage idling,..
thanks a lot!!
thanks a lot!!
#13
lol... unfortunately i dont have time to play around .. need the vehicle for working.. any other ideas? I was told that the ecu only does air/fuel as its running emanage ultimate harness or something.. cheers
#16
hmm well therte is a hose going to the nipple in the microtech lt10s, so what i should do is cap the hose from going to the ecu? or just remove the ecu completely and cap the end of the hose for time being? thanks
#17
removed the whole rb duct out and runs fine, its ina friends stock rx8 and runs fine, i think ecu needs retuning, so i will put them later when the car is in the workshop . thanks for the help everyone
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