I just replaced my alt that went out and now when test driving my car would stall out. I thought it was a vac leak at first but when spraying starting fluid into my bay I could not detect a leak.

Also I have a VLAD removed and plugged off. the senor is no longer hooked up as well.. would this cause a problem such as mine? Thanks.

 

never heard or that happening what does your car usually idle at and when you replaced the alt was your idle lower as normal?

 

I've had times after a PCM reset where the car would come REAL close to stalling.
It didn't help that I had old spark plugs at that time too.
So its possible that your car is still learning the fuel trims and old plugs are preventing the car from recovering/learning its idle position.
I say give it a couple more drive cycles and see if it improves.
If not, then come back and we'll go from there.

Also, verify that the battery connections are tight and the belt isn't loose.

And its VFAD, not VLAD
Variable Fresh Air Duct

 

Car stalling after battery unplugged is not normal.

that simply means something is "on its way out"

Im not trying to scared you guys, but its a sad truth.

I would say check the TB first. it goes bad faster than most think it is (and its barely noticeable in daily driving)

 

I think you're jumping to the "worst case" senario nycgps.
Too many other factors can result in this occurring, so I wouldn't say its a "dying" engine right away.

Like I mentioned above, I had the same thing occur when I had bad spark plugs (actually they were the RX7 plugs).
Changed them out, now it doesn't do that whenever the battery is disconnected.

This same symptom also occurred when a local 8 had his SSV stuck closed.
And this was only noticeable right after the battery was disconnected.
He would push in the clutch pedal and the RPMs would drop all the way to zero.
It appeared like the car never attempted to stabilize its idle... just died.
After I freed the stuck valve and "zoom-zoom" cleaned the engine, the "dying RPM drop" didn't return.

I see too many ridiculous posts from people saying, "sorry bud, sounds like a bad engine" without properly troubleshooting/diagnosing the issue.
Not saying it can't be a bad engine, but we need to quit suggesting it right away (unless its really obvious).
OK... I'll get off the soap box now

 

It idles fine when just sitting there. it's only when coasting in neutral that it stalls. and if I'm going slower, like say 20-30ish it tries to recover it.

I can also save it from stalling out by applying gas. I'll go ahead and pull the plugs to see if they are dirty. But I'm pretty sure they are fine since just bought the car about 5k miles ago and it had brand new plugs and wires in it.

Oh I forgot to mention I'm running a FD Alternator.

 

It doesn't seem to want to stall anymore but when rolling down a hill I applied the brakes and idle dropped pretty low. Also I had this problem before when I took out VFAD and put it back on and it fixed it. Now I took it off again and it's happening again. Did I miss something?

 

Are you capping the nipple behind the throttle body?

 

Yes I have. It seems to only stall when going above 50 coasting.

 

Anyone ever figure this problem out? I have the exact same thing happening

 

I've heard of this happening when the neutral switches go out. do a test on your neutral switch and see if it needs to be replaced

 

Ya you bumped a 6 year old thread.

I don't think you're going to get an answer

 

I think he already did. The neutral switch seems a very likely suspect. Especially if the problem doesn't appear when the clutch is pressed in.

 

Nah I haven't figured it out yet. I replaced my neutral switch and it still happens. I think it may be maf related. I cleaned mine but it didn't fix anything. Ordered a new one And it's on the way. We shall see on Monday if that fixes it

 

I meant from the OP

 

dang, i am shamed to be incorrect