Earlier this week I started my car in the morning (temp around 30 degrees), and the engine light came on. It revved fine out of gear but when I tried driving her the car wouldn't accelerate once the revs reached around 300 rpm. It just would like bog down. I turned her off after warming her up. 15 minutes later I started her again this time it started faster and ran fine when accelerating. I took it to Sears to have the code read and was told by the tech that there was no code and that it must have cleared itself. I always thought the code stayed but the car was running fine so he reset it.

This morning the same thing happened. it wouldn't accelerate past 3000 rpm. After warming up and restarting it runs fine, but the engine light is still on. I just put a new engine in in August at 128,000 miles. What could be causing this issue?

 

It is designed not to over rev when cold. It has a govenor to keep you from doing that.

 

either you're trying to push the car too hard before it's warmed up (as mentioned above) or the car is going into limp mode for some reason.

 

The engine light comes on when this happens, so somethings up. Plus, we're only talking about 30 degrees. This shouldn't be happening

 

Someone help me here. I took it to 3 different places including a rotary mechanic. The rotary mechanic was unable to duplicate the issue after a week with the car. I brought it home and low and behold 5 days later it pops back up. I went out to start it this morning in the snow and when I started it the engine light came on. After letting it warm up some I tried driving it and it wouldn't rev past 2000 rpm. After turning it off and restarting about 3 times and after it completely warmed up it ran fine.

 

bump

 

it sounds like the car is in limp mode as jedi previously mentioned

 

Take it to get the code read when the light comes on. Or buy a scanner and keep it plugged in until the code pops up.

 

it could also be your maf sensor not reading the airflow properly and therefor limiting your revs, ive had the same situation when water got into my maf sensor and disrupted the reading. So have alook to see if its on properly or broken.

 

Ever get the CEL code?

 

I thought about towing it next time it happened as I can't drive the car when it happens. If I wait to warm it up then restart it it runs fine thus no code. What throws a cel without a code is the question.

 

Any updates on this problem? Did you find a solution Talan7?

 

^^^^ This.

 

Talan mentioned that he solved the problem.

It was related to a failed Oil-Metering Pump.

 

It was the oil metering pump. The issue started when I had my coolant flushed at Sears auto. The tech gave me back my car and it was smoking like crazy. He said he spilled some coolant onto the engine, the next day it wouldn't run right. When I finally took it to mazda they had to keep it for a few days before the issue returned. They then told me it was the omp and it would cost $1600 for a new one or $800 for a used one. They also said coolant was all over the omp and stated that the omp is in a very bad spot under the coolant hose and that it's very easy for coolant to get into the connectors burning them out. I went back to Sears and complained to the manager and he agreed to pay, so back off to Mazda I went. I told the Mazda tech to put a new one in as the used one only had a 30 day warranty. He told the Manager at Sears he couldn't find a used on (the manager had said he'd pay for a used one). Anyway Mazda put a new one in and Sears payed over the phone. It runs great now. I think the omp is a much bigger issue regarding this engine that's coming to the fore. My new engine has less than 10,000 miles and it wasn't till the omp was changed did it really start to run really smoothly. In my opinion a new omp should come with every new engine. Check your oil regularly. It should be going down, if not then your omp isn't working properly and it may not give you the limp mode until much later, maybe even too late.

 

I have the same problem regarding not reving past 3k, after a new clutch and light flywheel. It cranked up perfect but once it warmed up and I tried reving it It wouldn't go past 3k rpm.

 

Was it running good before?

 

Yes it was running tip top before the release bearing gave out. That's why I did the clutch and flywheel upgrade.

 

yes it was running tip top before.

 

Well I fixed the problem a couple days ago. Found out my MAF connector got some moist in it from when I left it unconnected. I dried that out and cleaned my MAF just to be on the safe side.

 

Thanks for the update.