car wont start, wont even crank
#26
So what was the source of the issue? My car is in the body shop and they can't start it. Tachometer works and needles move up and down but there is NOT crancking whatsoever-- just a click when you try to start it. Battery is fine, lights work but radio, windows etc do not. I suggested they check the main fuse before they do anything else. The car was fine when I took it there.
#27
Registered User
So what was the source of the issue? My car is in the body shop and they can't start it. Tachometer works and needles move up and down but there is NOT crancking whatsoever-- just a click when you try to start it. Battery is fine, lights work but radio, windows etc do not. I suggested they check the main fuse before they do anything else. The car was fine when I took it there.
Thanks
#28
No, the only other time this has happened was when I accidentally connected the battery terminals backwards. Then it was just the main 120amp fuse. But now since this happened at the shop I really don't know if they did something to cause the problem-- but I'll ask them what was the issue when they fix it.
I suggest you check all the major--main, ignition, acc-- fuses aince the problem is
electrical in nature.
I suggest you check all the major--main, ignition, acc-- fuses aince the problem is
electrical in nature.
#34
Registered User
Success
SOLVED! Thanks to the rx8 search button.
After hours of looking for a solution and getting rid of all the other problem children with the search.
The best was: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/car-wont-start-out-town-desparate-205809/
Post #23
When I checked the volts and amps going to the starter, everything was fine. I never thought the connection would be compromised.
Well, after being defeated last night. The clicking was still happening and every now-and-then the car would start. I decided to spend the rest of the night looking this up. I found posts that the battery, starter, wiring, etc. were bad.
This thread was the first one I tried this morning. When I went to do VOODOO's list the positive terminal to the starter was a little loose. Took it off, sanded it, put some cable lube on it, and bolted her back on. Repeated for the negative. Got in the car and with no hesitation, she turned over faster than usual. I would recommend checking this out even if your car doesn't have this problem. The terminals on the starter are exposed to all the elements and might not be a bad idea to check it out.
Cheers
After hours of looking for a solution and getting rid of all the other problem children with the search.
The best was: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/car-wont-start-out-town-desparate-205809/
Post #23
When I checked the volts and amps going to the starter, everything was fine. I never thought the connection would be compromised.
Well, after being defeated last night. The clicking was still happening and every now-and-then the car would start. I decided to spend the rest of the night looking this up. I found posts that the battery, starter, wiring, etc. were bad.
This thread was the first one I tried this morning. When I went to do VOODOO's list the positive terminal to the starter was a little loose. Took it off, sanded it, put some cable lube on it, and bolted her back on. Repeated for the negative. Got in the car and with no hesitation, she turned over faster than usual. I would recommend checking this out even if your car doesn't have this problem. The terminals on the starter are exposed to all the elements and might not be a bad idea to check it out.
Cheers
#35
well I hope it is something as simple as this in the case of my car. I reiterate the issue showed up when the car was at the body shop so they have to sort it out. they also have a mechanic next door.
#36
it turned out it was the main 120amp fuse located right outside the fuse box in the engine bay. The mechanic said once they isolated it and bypass it the car started right up. They went to get a new one from the dealership.
The old fuse I got it at autozone--which was not the same, but I bent it to make it fit-- after burning the original since I needed the car right away. I suppose it gave up prematurely due to not being the OEM.
The old fuse I got it at autozone--which was not the same, but I bent it to make it fit-- after burning the original since I needed the car right away. I suppose it gave up prematurely due to not being the OEM.
#37
it turned out it was the main 120amp fuse located right outside the fuse box in the engine bay. The mechanic said once they isolated it and bypass it the car started right up. They went to get a new one from the dealership.
The old fuse I got it at autozone--which was not the same, but I bent it to make it fit-- after burning the original since I needed the car right away. I suppose it gave up prematurely due to not being the OEM.
The old fuse I got it at autozone--which was not the same, but I bent it to make it fit-- after burning the original since I needed the car right away. I suppose it gave up prematurely due to not being the OEM.
#40
Gulf Coast Rotaries
iTrader: (1)
isue
it turned out it was the main 120amp fuse located right outside the fuse box in the engine bay. The mechanic said once they isolated it and bypass it the car started right up. They went to get a new one from the dealership.
The old fuse I got it at autozone--which was not the same, but I bent it to make it fit-- after burning the original since I needed the car right away. I suppose it gave up prematurely due to not being the OEM.
The old fuse I got it at autozone--which was not the same, but I bent it to make it fit-- after burning the original since I needed the car right away. I suppose it gave up prematurely due to not being the OEM.
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dbarber
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07-25-2015 01:34 PM