CEL Codes U0073 and U0155
#1
Thread Starter
('04 Nordic Green 6MT GT)
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From: Nashville, TN
CEL Codes U0073 and U0155
So today, I had someone read my CEL codes, and the two codes U0073 and U0155 showed up. I tried doing some research on them, but no luck. The only mods I have installed are AEM Cold Air Intake, and TurboXS cat back exhaust. Looking for any useful information. Thanks!
#2
Those are CAN bus communication errors. I get those sometimes when my OBD2 reader is not seated completely.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...e-list-212975/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...e-list-212975/
#4
We can't really provide any suggestions on how to repair it until we know what is wrong with it.
As you see above, the U0073 is a CAN BUS communication error. This is not disabling your car, this is a communication error with the device that is reading the codes.
Sooo...how about providing more information about what's wrong?
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
As you see above, the U0073 is a CAN BUS communication error. This is not disabling your car, this is a communication error with the device that is reading the codes.
Sooo...how about providing more information about what's wrong?
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
Questions we CAN answer:
Most issues that the RX-8 faces are easily answered when you post detailed, descriptive, and accurate explanations of what symptoms you are having with your RX-8. Many of our issues share common symptoms with at least one other issue. Several of the really common issues share MOST of their symptoms with another problem. So when you post: "power loss?" We can't really tell you what is going on. We can only throw the book of possible issues at you for you to figure out.
The amount of assistance you receive is DIRECTLY associated to how much detail you provide!
So what do you need to share?
A) Break each issue you are seeing out by itself. For each of these issues, detail what RPMs it occurs in, and what RPMs it doesn't. Detail how much throttle you are giving when it occurs.
B) Detail what the ambient temperatures are that you are seeing, what the gauges are doing.
C) If you have a CEL, GIVE US THE CODE! (most auto-parts stores will pull the code for free for you. Otherwise, you can buy a code reader for LESS than the dealer's diagnostic price, giving you a discount on that one, and free code pulling for the rest of the device's life, across every car you own) (Hint, search with Google and site:rx8club.com <CEL> before posting. You will probably find your answer.)
D) Detail any possible modifications or repairs that have been made within the last 3,000 miles, even if it seems like it's not related.
E) Detail the age and mileage of the car, and what maintenance history it has been on. NOT just "it's gotten regular maintenance" because there are wear items that are not part of "regular maintenance" for dealers and most shops.
F) Since many issues are ignition related, and you are going to get asked, give us the mileage and age of ignition coils, wires, and plugs.
G) Detail out when it DOESN'T happen. This is just as critical as when it does!
Another thing to keep in mind is that unless you are being a complete jackass, and unless the person responding to you is ignorant about the issues, our answers are going to be pretty accurate, if not dead on. Even if you don't like the option. We have no stake in your finances, no stake in making money off of it. We DON'T like to see unhealthy or busted 8s. So if you choose to ignore our recommendations, do so at your own peril, and don't come whining to us that you shoveled money at the problem that was completely unneeded.
Most issues that the RX-8 faces are easily answered when you post detailed, descriptive, and accurate explanations of what symptoms you are having with your RX-8. Many of our issues share common symptoms with at least one other issue. Several of the really common issues share MOST of their symptoms with another problem. So when you post: "power loss?" We can't really tell you what is going on. We can only throw the book of possible issues at you for you to figure out.
The amount of assistance you receive is DIRECTLY associated to how much detail you provide!
So what do you need to share?
A) Break each issue you are seeing out by itself. For each of these issues, detail what RPMs it occurs in, and what RPMs it doesn't. Detail how much throttle you are giving when it occurs.
B) Detail what the ambient temperatures are that you are seeing, what the gauges are doing.
C) If you have a CEL, GIVE US THE CODE! (most auto-parts stores will pull the code for free for you. Otherwise, you can buy a code reader for LESS than the dealer's diagnostic price, giving you a discount on that one, and free code pulling for the rest of the device's life, across every car you own) (Hint, search with Google and site:rx8club.com <CEL> before posting. You will probably find your answer.)
D) Detail any possible modifications or repairs that have been made within the last 3,000 miles, even if it seems like it's not related.
E) Detail the age and mileage of the car, and what maintenance history it has been on. NOT just "it's gotten regular maintenance" because there are wear items that are not part of "regular maintenance" for dealers and most shops.
F) Since many issues are ignition related, and you are going to get asked, give us the mileage and age of ignition coils, wires, and plugs.
G) Detail out when it DOESN'T happen. This is just as critical as when it does!
Another thing to keep in mind is that unless you are being a complete jackass, and unless the person responding to you is ignorant about the issues, our answers are going to be pretty accurate, if not dead on. Even if you don't like the option. We have no stake in your finances, no stake in making money off of it. We DON'T like to see unhealthy or busted 8s. So if you choose to ignore our recommendations, do so at your own peril, and don't come whining to us that you shoveled money at the problem that was completely unneeded.
#5
Yellow looks faster.
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 445
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From: North NJ - Utah - Arizona
Sorry to revive this, But I'm trying not to create a new thread on a topic that is not quite answered where ever I search.
I'm getting the same codes. U0155 and U0073.
Some history I guess... I have an AccessPort on the car, and it can sometimes cut out of I bump it slightly, or just stop communications with vehicle. Its been installed for a while now with this happening, but no issues.
As I was driving to work today, the cars instrument cluster would just start failing. The RPM needle and speed would temporarily show 0 and then hop right back up to the normal RPM and speed I was driving, no stutters in the engine when this happened.
Two days ago, I installed new springs on the car. I heard maybe its possible to knock a connection loose? I don't know what we could have possibly hit. It drove home and for an hour after that with no issue and took it out yesterday and had no issues.
@thomthoms3 - Did you get your car sorted out? what was the problem?
Thanks for any help!
I'm getting the same codes. U0155 and U0073.
Some history I guess... I have an AccessPort on the car, and it can sometimes cut out of I bump it slightly, or just stop communications with vehicle. Its been installed for a while now with this happening, but no issues.
As I was driving to work today, the cars instrument cluster would just start failing. The RPM needle and speed would temporarily show 0 and then hop right back up to the normal RPM and speed I was driving, no stutters in the engine when this happened.
Two days ago, I installed new springs on the car. I heard maybe its possible to knock a connection loose? I don't know what we could have possibly hit. It drove home and for an hour after that with no issue and took it out yesterday and had no issues.
@thomthoms3 - Did you get your car sorted out? what was the problem?
Thanks for any help!
#6
It's just a communication error. If you disconnect the accessport, does the dash problem go away?
I had 3 different OBD2 readers while I had my 8, and all 3 of them showed U codes when connected. None of the 3 showed the same U codes as the other 2, and which U codes any one would show, were always shown by that one.
One of the devices would cause my TCS to be disabled if I plugged it in and connected after the car was already running.
I saw elsewhere recently where a shop that was doing some testing on a Miata plugged in a data reader, and it fed a bit of extra voltage to the knock sensor on that particular car, triggering an ECU limp mode due to knock until they unplugged it and cycled the car off then on again.
So I think that some cars just don't like some OBD2 devices. There probably IS a reason for it, but not really something the average guy can predict and plan for, so I wouldn't worry about it. Just shift to only using the AP when you need to flash or log. My AP would only stay connected for about 45 minutes before shutting down, so I ended up leaving mine in a box on the shelf unless I needed it for logging or flashing.
I had 3 different OBD2 readers while I had my 8, and all 3 of them showed U codes when connected. None of the 3 showed the same U codes as the other 2, and which U codes any one would show, were always shown by that one.
One of the devices would cause my TCS to be disabled if I plugged it in and connected after the car was already running.
I saw elsewhere recently where a shop that was doing some testing on a Miata plugged in a data reader, and it fed a bit of extra voltage to the knock sensor on that particular car, triggering an ECU limp mode due to knock until they unplugged it and cycled the car off then on again.
So I think that some cars just don't like some OBD2 devices. There probably IS a reason for it, but not really something the average guy can predict and plan for, so I wouldn't worry about it. Just shift to only using the AP when you need to flash or log. My AP would only stay connected for about 45 minutes before shutting down, so I ended up leaving mine in a box on the shelf unless I needed it for logging or flashing.
#7
Yellow looks faster.
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
From: North NJ - Utah - Arizona
Stuck in the office till 2pm mountain time. Just freaking out a bout it a little. I really don't want to deal with any electrical problems... I will update here later with the current state of the car.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
#9
Thread Starter
('04 Nordic Green 6MT GT)
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
Sorry to revive this, But I'm trying not to create a new thread on a topic that is not quite answered where ever I search.
I'm getting the same codes. U0155 and U0073.
Some history I guess... I have an AccessPort on the car, and it can sometimes cut out of I bump it slightly, or just stop communications with vehicle. Its been installed for a while now with this happening, but no issues.
As I was driving to work today, the cars instrument cluster would just start failing. The RPM needle and speed would temporarily show 0 and then hop right back up to the normal RPM and speed I was driving, no stutters in the engine when this happened.
Two days ago, I installed new springs on the car. I heard maybe its possible to knock a connection loose? I don't know what we could have possibly hit. It drove home and for an hour after that with no issue and took it out yesterday and had no issues.
@thomthoms3 - Did you get your car sorted out? what was the problem?
Thanks for any help!
I'm getting the same codes. U0155 and U0073.
Some history I guess... I have an AccessPort on the car, and it can sometimes cut out of I bump it slightly, or just stop communications with vehicle. Its been installed for a while now with this happening, but no issues.
As I was driving to work today, the cars instrument cluster would just start failing. The RPM needle and speed would temporarily show 0 and then hop right back up to the normal RPM and speed I was driving, no stutters in the engine when this happened.
Two days ago, I installed new springs on the car. I heard maybe its possible to knock a connection loose? I don't know what we could have possibly hit. It drove home and for an hour after that with no issue and took it out yesterday and had no issues.
@thomthoms3 - Did you get your car sorted out? what was the problem?
Thanks for any help!
#10
and do not plug in or unplug an OBDII device while the car is already on, usually that results in these erroneous codes being stored. doing that interrupts the communications temporarily from some scanners.
#11
I am also have the U0155 CEL.
I have had this issue for a while now, and has not caused any mechanical issues. However, I am wondering will I fail a smog test in California due to this SPECIFIC cel code, which has nothing to do with emissions?
I have had this issue for a while now, and has not caused any mechanical issues. However, I am wondering will I fail a smog test in California due to this SPECIFIC cel code, which has nothing to do with emissions?
#13
My OBD II reader
Mini ELM327 OBD2 V1.5 Car Bluetooth Scanner Android Auto Scan Diagnostic Tool UK | eBay
I've tried use TORQUE PRO on my sony Z3 compact but something failed.
My ABS and TC are ON at the dashboard now. So I have connected different OBD II model 2000 (not on Bluetooth) it showed me fault codes:
U0121 (Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Controle Module)
Also
U0155 (Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Controle Module)
I've erased errors. Everything seems back to normal.
So witch OBD II on Bluetooth should I use to communicate with TORQUE app with my phone sony z3???
Or how to fix communication with OBD Bluetooth i have got.
Test going thru to the point, rx8 is left with errors.
Any ideas?
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2007, bus, cel, code, communication, diagnostic, fault, mazda, mazdarx8faultcodeu0073, rx8, solution, turkce, u0073, u0155, wat