denisizzle

Just got the master and slave cylinder replaced, shop bled the car numerous times and after about a day of driving getting into gear slowly got worse, now the clutch does not fully disengage and to get into gear I have to start the car in 1st. Does it just need be bled again at the slave cylinder? Also after the replacement the clutch pedal feels way softer than it used to be. Any help is appreciated.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Assuming the repairs were done because of an actual failure there and not a clutch pedal failure, then yes, bleed the clutch again. Driving can make the bubble shift around, since they can get trapped at either end of the line normally.

If re-bleeding it doesn't fix anything, then check the clutch pedal for failure, and I hope you didn't have the master/slave replaced because your pedal (Which is under an 8yr 100k warranty) is breaking...

denisizzle

That's what the shop diagnosed. It was driven briefly by them and then re bled before I got it. Slowly got worse so I will have them re bleed it tomorrow. The clutch pedal itself looks and feels fine, how can I tell if it's breaking?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Does it have ANY lateral play in the pedal? Left to right, door to brake pedal? Not just with it fully out, but at different points in the range as well.

>80% of the time, clutch problems are the pedal assembly weld cracking before they break, and nearly all of the rest are simply clutch failures. The master/slave cylinder failing is exceedingly rare, and nearly all of those handful of times they failed AFTER the clutch pedal assembly broke.


Exceptions are always possible, but the odds are not in your favor.

FastFreddy61

Has the hydraulic line failed ? Have some one operate the clutch while you hold / look at the hose to see if it increases in diameter.

denisizzle

thanks for the suggestions so far. I had the mechanic bleed the clutch again and it felt PERFECT for a short drive, after which I had a little bit of trouble getting it into gear. However when I got home and parked it (driveway angled slightly upwards) it felt perfect again. Is this just air in the lines or could it still be the clutch pedal bracket and/or the hydraulic line? There is some play in the pedal but not much, I'm unsure of how much is a problem.

denisizzle

and now its back to being terrible. have to slam it into gear or it grinds. it was perfect so what is it now? thanks in advance.

denisizzle

third update: the bracket snapped. Car is a 2004 so I don't believe I have warranty anymore. I'll get the bracket replaced and will probably get the clutch bled again.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

As I suspected. Check with a dealer anyway, there is a chance that it is still under warranty, depending on the date of first purchase. Mazda extended the warranty coverage on the clutch pedal assembly to 8yrs 100,000 miles, so there is a chance.

I suspect that you paid to have the master/slave cylinders replaced entirely needlessly.


I'd recommend replacing your clutch assembly yourself if it's not covered under warranty. It's literally 4 bolts and 2 electrical clips in your wheel well. Easily done.

For replacement options, (assuming you aren't under warranty) I'd recommend contacting BHR and buying a reinforced pedal assembly that won't break. Otherwise the OEM will break again eventually. For OEM, don't just buy at a dealer's markup price, contact Mazmart for a brand new unit at far better prices.

denisizzle

well I've heard the slave cylinder was also a problem so it may have been a combination of the two things. My brother works at the shop so I got cost+10 on parts and 50% off labor.

To replace the bracket is it not necessary to remove the pedal or mess around with the clutch adjustments? If not then yes I will do the work myself.

I'll check about the warranty on monday. Ebay has the bracket for $75, is this the part I'm looking for: RX-8 Clutch Pedal Bracket | eBay

I'll see what price BHR has on monday as well. Thanks alot for your help.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No, that is just a reinforcement bracket. That can be useful if your pedal has not yet failed. But yours has. You need a new assembly.

That pic is from Mazdatrix. They even note in the item description:
I don't see it listed on BHR's site, but RaceRoots does:
Complete Reinforced Clutch Pedal Bracket Assembly

That's a reinforced one with the Raceroots bracket (same as the ebay listed one you linked). If you go OEM with no improvement, it will be a bit less, but still over $200 typically.


Just 3 bolts to the firewall and 1 bolt on the top to the bracing. No adjustments needed.

denisizzle

Awesome, thank you. I'll check for warranty and keep my fingers crossed... if not I'll pony up the cash for the reinforced assembly.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Good to know!

denisizzle

So after replacing the clutch pedal it has been shifting great 99% of the time, occasionally it will be a tad harder to get it into gear. I think there is still some air trapped in there that finds its way up and causes problem sometimes. Is it better to bleed at the master or slave cylinder? Also shifting above 6 or 7 k rpms the gears grind a little bit so shifting quick at high rpms is no longer possible. Any insight?

denisizzle

Thank you!!! That did the trick. I had almost an inch of free play. I assumed it would come from the factory adjusted according to spec.