The hardest part is getting into position laying on your back looking up. It's a tight squeeze and if you were bifocals like me, you have to go more by feel. :banghead:

I wish I had put a video together. I've done several of these. I'll try to DIY it next time for those of you that want to correct this issue before you get bit. Also I will document your alternatives. But stress the importance of preventative maintenance. All has been discussed here already but I think I'll put a web page up on it.

yeah, putting it back on is moderately harder. its still nothing that 5 minutes of cursing cant solve though. :)

So, will the brackets completely solve the vulnerability to cracking? Is the welding merely the alternative to the bracket, or are there 2 separate issues at stake?

The stock/OE bracket has "ultra stupid ass whack weak welds" that will "eventually" break ...

Mine is over 10K miles now (last one broke, see first post, LOL) ... and stupid ass Manhattan Mazda dealership tried to blame it on clutch ... yeah ok ... and talk shit to the Mazda Tech Line ... 1 time repair. pst.

Lets just hope this PoS bracket never caused any accident ... sheesh.

These are your options and #1 is by far the easiest, most cost efficient, and time saving. Sorry, I don't have time to put the cost together right this moment.

1. Weld assembly before/after snap.
2. Purchase a new assembly.
3. Purchase a remanufactured assembly before/after snap.
4. Install bracket before/after snap.
5. Weld assembly before/after snap and install bracket also.

1. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Anyone remember what size the bolts are? I know it's not hard to find out but it could save me a trip home to make sure I bring my entire socket set

No idea personally, but so many bolts are 10mm. That's my guess, I'll wait for someone to post the right answer XD

12mm.
Best with a deep socket and a swivel is recommended for the upper-left bolt.

... and extension.

Ah yes... forgot that one.

This may be a stupid question, but is it obvious where the welding needs to be done on the bracket? Also, is it recommended to purchase the reinforcement bracket as well or do you just need to have the OEM bracket welded?

You can weld OEM bracket yourself if u know how.

but the point is the bracket shouldn't break like that.

I think what he meant was, if he gets it welded, is there a point to getting the reinforcement bracket, or does welding totally solve the problem on its own.

That's basically the question I've had, but I've not seen a straight answer whether you should both weld it and get the bracket, or only do one of those.

Proper welding will solve the problem.

I suppose I should take care of this eventually, probly before putting in my ACT Clutch stuff.

Yes... get the pedal fixed before installing the clutch.
It'll be more prone to failure with an upgraded clutch.

the problem i see with welding is that the metal is so thin. you can literally bend the assembly by hand. so yeah, the new welds may hold, but the whole thing just seems kind of flimsy to me. but maybe its not an issue since the metal is inline with the pedal. you arent bending it from the side with the foot or anything, but still...

the bracket that is on the fluid motorsports website is strong. it really reinforces the assembly. i cant say enough good things about it.

Thanks for the replies. The only thing I'm really concerned about is the switches. Are they easy to replace? Also there's no DIY to remove the clutch pedal? Can you guys give me some tips on how to take it out? It doesn't seem that straightforward as mentioned in another thread. lol Yeah, sorry I'm a little new at this.

switches? u talking about the clutch cut switch or the other one?

Anywayz, both are EASY to do.

The pedal itself? its being hold by couple of bolts only. 1 of them is plastic too(correct me if wrong)

Hmmm probably both. Do you need to remove switches to get to the clutch pedal or just the clutch cut switch?

Well it just happened to me with 83,??? miles can't remember how many. All I can say is holy hell is it hard trying to drive. I had to take my shoe's off so I could hold it straight while pushing it in and pulling it back out.

I've seen people talking about the pedal, but I thought it was the pedal itself and not the case around it:spank:. Mine started squeeking and trying to get in fourth at high rpm's it had a little problem, don't know if it's related yet until I get the bracket reinforced.

Will be reporting sir NYC to the nhtsa in order to save someone from having a horrible accident. If it wasn't for all the people on this site mazda would be having a field day with people wasting money on things you shouldn't have to.

dang synthetic, sorry to hear yours broke. Installing the replacement is pretty easy, hopefully you'll be back up and running soon

I hope I can get it done tommorrow. I'll go to the shop and weld it until I can get a bracket. To bad I didn't know it was going when it started to squeek, I could of drove the car to the shop instead of having to get rides all day.

I did notice that around the weld looked to be sorta light brown, don't know if it was rust or just from the weld. I'll take pictures of it and maybe make a diy if there isn't one I can't seem to find any using search, but I have a little bit of trouble with the search sometimes.:icon_no2:

Lucky my clutch bracket looks perfect for now... don't care about the stupid bad luck...

Yeah that is how it starts, the squeak and then snap!

Replacing the whole assembly could be troublesome, Reinforcing the whole assembly will do the trick.

You can pick them up here

It stiffens the clutch pedal up nicely, I love the feel on my car.

No, it starts with a squeak, then a creak, then a clicking, and then a snap. I was the one who discoverd this issue 2 years ago, documented it and chronicled the history.

Prove that flexing still occurs when the assembly has been properly welded.

Since when does a bolt-on bracket equal welding?

WOW!
Somebody who is brand new comes on here and reads these two post will probably look at them and go :Eyecrazy:

Both guys saying that the other method is "impractical".

Your right.

Edited.

The Price I think will let the end user decide $375 or $135.

Another Day....

Another Day...

another day....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Says who?

Not me?
__________________

Where did you even pull that quote from? I didn't see it anywhere on this page? Does it have anything to do with this arguement? How did this go from clutch pedal problems to coil "problems"?

I think I read somewhere that ther is a fake BHR ignition kit out there. Mabye that is where the problems your talking about came from?

You 2 are getting to be a bit much ;)

You know who you are ....................

Indeed, I just wish the forum could be a happy place again, but some don't like it that way. :dunno:

Sorry. I just get annoyed easy. I'll stop. ;)

^ You aren't one of the 2 :)

By "some" do you mean you? You took the arguement from clutch pedals to coils, like you were looking for an argument. Just my observation.

Not really, Tired of the cheap shots really.

I don't sit quietly when I am attacked.

Looks like the edit button is in full force this evening...

he's got a point! but daymn!!! Fluid has good prices and always have badass deals.

HOLD ON! it's evening? mines 12:29Am egh i have school peace!!! hope all goes well between you two!

right cause that's all that matters.

I never said he didn't. He has been very helpfull to me when I have pm'd him with part questions.

Kinda is, if your a customer buying products with a good price :D
Plus not alot of people have money for a welded peice of metal that cost $375 COUGH*

Yeah, not trying to hide anything.

Tired of the BS and Drama.

sorry miss read. He helps my buddy on choosing parts and stuff :D and have badaas prices and shipping :D

Well, ask yourself this question as I did...

Imagine yourself out driving around and your clutch pedal snaps. Now you are either unable to drive your vehicle or you risk causing serious damage to your transmission. So now you're stuck with a vehicle you cannot drive and you're either on your way to work, to hang out with friends, or maybe you're on the race track or a mountain drive.

You'll have to have the car towed somewhere, maybe a dealership. Then they have to order the part which could take days while you pay to use a loaner car. Then, Mazda charges you $250 for the clutch pedal and an hour of labor to install it.

So, you had your day or maybe week ruined, your car tied up and all of it over a clutch pedal you could have had preventative work done on.

You don't have to pay BHR to get a welded pedal, you can take it to any local shop and get it welded. We've never said you MUST buy the pedal from us or else! We have maintained a constant message of "get it fixed someplace" for your own safety.

I honestly don't think a bracket is the way to go. You have to drill holes and adds another point of failure to the pedal. The whole assembly is 4 bolts and 30 minutes to swap.

The choice is up to you...the mazsport bracket that fluid sells, BHR's new welded assembly or a local shop to weld the pedal for you. If money is your primary concern, having it welded locally is the best bet.

LOL... I'm not getting in the middle of this one bud ;)
I'll PM you on what occurred after we got off the phone the other day (TRY to keep this thread on topic).

Well - not to steal both of your thunders... but if you remove the clutch pedal and then take the non-damaged stock clutch to a decent tig-welder and tell them the problem and where the stress/loads are, they'll be able to set you up for a decent price, and if they're able to do it right away, the welding only takes about 15-30 min.

I'm not saying that this is the best way, but it is another option. When the shop I work at did this for myself and some locals, some of the clutches appeared not to fit properly on the install (car wouldn't start because the sensor wouldn't engage all the way by the pedal acting like it wasn't down all the way).

The overall issue here is that the clutches weren't beefy enough for normal use - which should be reported and recalled.

Did mazda fix this problem on the '09s?