REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Verify customer concern.
2. Replace clutch cut switch with a revised part.
NOTE:
• Ensure clutch cut switch locks into position when installing.
3. Verify repair.


Part Number D374-66-4D0A Clutch Cut Switch

 

Just in case anyone is interested it what it looks like when it snaps!

Took mine out this morning. The only problem with removing it is when it snaps, it pushes the metal out over the nut and it's really hard to get a socket over it. I spent more time trying to get the socket on than it took for everything else.

Charles, I'm looking forward to getting the assembly in this Thursday. I'm going to go ahead and try to repair mine if possible in the tomorrow.

 

Yep, all the failures end up looking the same.. Design flaw

 

lol, from the looks of it, mine wont last that long now either

Ray, pls hurry!

 

I get the idea that this could be why shifting gears was getting a little grind especially when the car was not at full operating temp.

You know, it's just one thing after the other in this car. I love it but I hate it. I have to keep justifying to my wife why I should keep it. Before I owned it, I would never put up with a car with this many faults... so why do I put up with it now? Why don't I trade it in on something more reliable? I think it's like the old saying, "Love is blind". I love this car so much that I don't have a true unbiased view of the real issues. I want it to be the perfect car and I keep thinking after every thing is repaired that, Now, finally it's fixed... I don't think I will ever learn.

I think my trany is going on me! jeeeeezzzzzzzz 60,200 miles! Figures! Just after the engine replacement at 58,500.

EDIT:
Thanks Ray, I will take pics and post as soon as I get it in my grubby little hands. I'll try to take some good enough you can use for promotion.

 

any type of performance car that has ran as fast as yours on Road Atlanta and Roebling and a few other places is going to have some upkeep!
My tranny is making noise also--but Don we can get one now for less than $900 and we have learned about how to make them last a little longer.
You do have a heavier wgt oil in it dont you?
When you come to install the gauges i will show you some things i have discovered in my adventures.
olddragger

 

Yea, I'm running 10w40 right now and when we run at Roebling, I will have 20w50 in it... and yea, now that you mention it Denny, maybe it has seen a little activity. See ya on the 19th.

 

cool it will great to see ya. i have some things to show you.
OD

 

What are you talking about !

Its pure user abuse !

 

engine swap in CA???

 

This is my clutch pedal assembly after welding. You can see that it is now fused as one piece so if anything breaks, it will not be from the previous week spots.





This is the corner that was torn off and welded back in place.


I don't know if it's going to work properly but at this point, I don't give a crap. I have alternatives on the way.

 

As long as it aligns properly it should work ok.. The corner that is the weak point is pretty well covered

 

Just got through installing and boy did it make a difference. I can see now that there was a gradual degradation of the bracket because I have been having problems for a while. Especially after the new clutch install. The gears seem to change easier now. Maybe it's my imagination but it just feels much better. There is still a little lateral flex but I guess that is a good thing for safety and mechanical reasons.

 

WOW! It looks like I might have this same issue. I'm going to my car to check things out in a few minutes. When I press the clutch peddle I do get a slight squeek but not the loud creek that was on the previously posted youtube video. I am not sure if I noticed any lateral movement but then again I could be wrong since I have not payed much attention to it. I thought the assembly just needed some grease.

I'll keep you posted...

 

OK, this is what my bracket looks like...



Sorry for the blurry pic...cell phone.





Seems like my bracket is ok but not sure.

 

It seems to be Fine. but no way to know for sure (blurry piccccsssss)

I took most of my pics with my phone, u need to get a better phone, oh no no iPhone's no no no. No Razr either.

N73 FTW ! Soon will change to K850


FOR those who have/had clutch Bracket Problems, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE take 10-15 minutes of your time, and REPORT THEM to NHTSA. Im SURE there were a lot of broken brackets. but so far I've seen only a few people who actually did The report !

 

My 16 gb iPhone told me to tell you...

The problem was the angle of the flash light. I will try and take some more pics but this time a little bit closer.

BTW...I have 56,000 + miles.

 

my 3.2 mp N73 from *2 yrs ago* tell me to tell you that it can pwn ur iphone in picture quality anyday & night

anyway, lets see if u can take some better pics

I have 40K miles now.

 

Can you tell me where to access for reporting. I will be all over it.

Thanks!

 

Apparently this problem was also experienced in at least the 2nd gen RX-7's. See the welds, partially obscured, at the top of the bracket in the attached image. These welds do not look like factory welds. When I purchased this car, the previous owner indicated that it had an aftermarket "street/strip" clutch. So perhaps this is a long standing problem with the RX'es?

 

It's difficult to inspect it properly while still installed.. But taking it out is pretty simple..

 

Ray, the assembly came in today. I'm including pics and a brief observation. I have not installed it yet so I can't give any use responses yet.

First thing I noticed about Ray's unit is that the welds are more numerous than I expected and the coverage is well exicuted.



Additional welds are applied to the top bracket that attaches to the dash frame.



The side piece that holds a switch is also welded for more strength.



The welds are very clean.



The side of he bracket that attaches to he firewall is also reinforced with welds. There is a small visual flaw that you can see on the bottom left of this image that could have been from a brake in the original bracket or could have been from welding. I can't tell but it would not have any effect on the usability of this assembly.



My overall observation is that this assembly is more than ample to take care of my needs using an Exedy stage 1 clutch. Since I have already had mine welded and seems to be working, I'm not sure I can justify purchasing this one. I'm just lucky enough to work for a company that has a welding shop. Many of you will not have that advantage and Ray's alternative is a VERY good solid choice. I would consider it to be stronger than required which is a good thing.

 

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/

 

If you are decently handing with socket wrenches. I recommend the following which I just did today. 1) print out the service manual pages that diagram the clutch pedal so you know what the hell you are looking at under there. My clutch pedal bracket totally broke. I took the clutch pedal out. I went to the yellow pages and found a professional welder. $25 dollars later he took what looked like a piece of junk with no hope for repair and made it stronger than if I had bought the $275 clutch pedal from mazda. So parts labor of $380 cost me $25 dollars and I am good to go for another 50k. Shifts like butter again!! The springs gasket and rods are really solid so their is no need to buy a new pedal.

 

Wow... my clutch pedal popped today... i guess im not alone on this, has anyone on here gotten a new clutch bracket from CRH or BHR? cuz i need a new 1 and might as well get something not for just a temp job...