recently my clutch started slipping. i do not think the clutch itself is going bad as it is fairly new.

it more seemed like the clutch wasnt fully engaging when the pedal was released. the clutch grabbed very nicely getting going from a stop and would only slip under heavy load.

as this progressed the pedal play became greater and greater. around 1.5-2 inches. i finally got under there today and adjusted the pedal play to within specifications thinking that this would fix the engagement issue as well.

turned out to be quite the opposite. with the pedal depressed, the clutch will not catch to get the car going until it is almost fully out. which only confirms what i thought was happening was.

i cant find anything in the FSM on how to adjust the clutch engagement point. the specifications for the pedal are given, but it does say how to correct it if its not in specification.

any information on how to do this would be great.

thanks,
Nick

 

1) You shouldn't adjust pedal play until you adjust/check the pedal stroke
2) Did you check the clutch pedal assembly for the famous crack/fracture that causes so many clutch related problems?

 

i have the mazsport reinforcement bracket. so i didnt check for the crack. its possible its there tho. and yeah i found out the hard way not to mess with the play. i'm gonna go out tomorrow and put it back where it was. the stroke adjustment is in the manual. but which adjustment controls the engagement. or is that adjustment made on the cylinder?

 

On the clutch pedal you'll see a physical "hard stop" in the center:

The pedal stroke should be about 5"

Once you got that set correctly, adjust the push rod (pedal play) so the play is about 1/4" - 1/2"

But I would absolutely verify the clutch pedal assembly didn't fracture even though you have a bracket installed.

 

Another thing I just thought of...
If the release fork isn't retracting back fully once you let off the pedal, the clutch would slip and your pedal play would appear wrong because the fluid wasn't "push" back up.
This can be caused by a worn pressure plate or lack of lubrication on the spline the release bearing slides on.

 

i'm going out tomorrow to take a closer look. will definitely check for the fracture.

i'm fairly confident that the stroke is correct. but will check that as well.

i still need my original question answered. when the pedal is floored, how is the engagement point controlled and adjusted as you let up on the pedal?

 

Pedal stoke and play are the only adjustments.
With a longer stroke and less play before it hits the master cylinder, you're allowing more fluid to get sent to the slave cylinder.
I guess I don't understand what you're looking for...

 

sounds like my issue. i know its not the pressure plate as that was replaced with the clutch 10k miles ago.

the lubrication might be it. i really hope its not tho

but what i was originally asking was...

when the pedal is depressed fully, you release it to engage the clutch. you can feel through the pedal when the clutch disc contacts the flywheel. how is this engagement point adjusted? is it based on the pedal itself, or would it be a clutch cylinder thing?

 

The engagement "feeling" point you get is accomplished with the pedal stroke and play.
You'll notice (if you haven't already) by altering stroke and/or play, the point in which you feel the clutch engages changes.

Now if you want to see if the release fork is seizing (or something is causing it), You can lift the car up on jack stands and have someone in the car pressing and release the clutch pedal while you observe the slave cylinder (on the transmission).
You can see where it attaches to the top of the release fork and watch for it to move smoothly and without resistance/hesitations.
This could also point to possibly a bad master or slave cylinder too.

But you need to start narrowing it down.
1) Start with the pedal, verify the assembly isn't fractured.
2) Check/adjust the pedal.
3) Check/Observe the slave cylinder as the clutch is engaged/disengaged.

 

Reading this I thought it could possibly be a Master Cylinder problem but that just me, I dont know enough about clutch problems... but it not catching could would lead me to assume Master Cylinder isnt doing its job, but Im probably wrong as I dont know the components that wear over time that would cause this, just my .02 cents, goodluck Nick

 

this sounds good. that was my general plan of attack, but i thought i'd get more info and a second opinion after my first attempt failed.

thanks a ton 'll let you know what i find tomorrow. the shitty thing is im at school so my rescources are very limited.

Nick

 

I see the resident clutch expert in here now...
I'm sure CRH will find something I overlooked and give you good advise as well.

 

Damn... that's a good idea old man

 

thanks a ton for the info. will try the bolts. although i wont know if ill be able to get to it for a while. none of my tools are here at school with me. i guess for now i'll put it back to where it was.

oddly enough the flywheel and clutch are yours. i ordered august 2008. but all the issues werent sorted out with the spec clutches. So i got one from exedy i believe

 

yeah. the flywheel is fantastic. i pretty much had to relearn how to drive my car.

and it used to be on and off. but i didnt bring it to light until the fix didnt work. it is back where it was now and the car is driveable. just cant accellerate heavily.

 

^^^

Your whole approach to lightweight drivetrain components can be praised for that benefit!

I remember driving a friend's Miata race car that had a Tilton 7.75" Clutch unit. All of that lightness REALLY comes alive and apparent on the north end of the tachometer.

 

Ray.....

I'm going to want some updates on that Stage 2+ BHR Clutch / Flywheel Package. That's the EXACT same setup that I am going to be ordering from you.

Don't take it so easy on it.......let me know what abuse it can take from a non-boosted car. Just don't squeeze nitrous......that will change things up quite a bit.

 

I have heard through people what the proper break-in procedure is but ive never read anything official for breaking in a clutch, anyone got a link?

 

Usually the manufacture will mention their recommended break-in period with their instruction booklet.
Some say 500 miles while others say 700 miles.
You can sometimes find this on their website as well.

 

ah alright, just asking because someone posted about the actual proper break-in of brake pads with a video and i learned so much... so i was wondering if there was something like that. thanks Jon

 

I have a question about clutch slipping in my RX8 just recently got the car it takes off just fine but going down the road can see the rpm going up while accelerating but doesn't match to pedal until it catches is it going out or can it be adjusted

 

Sounds like your clutch is slipping.