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Code red...damsel in distress!!! :(

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Old 02-05-2010 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jmc23200
I don't think she needs help, just another dealer. Like stated above, go to Liberty Mazda and talk to Tom. I would also try to get ALL of your cars history printed IE all of your visits regarding the same problem since 25k miles. That way you will have proof of when it started and the document that covers it SSP 67. You should be fine. I live in Boston if you do need some help. Massachusetts Consumer Laws protect you against this. If a part that is under warranty fails or has problems and you bring it to the manufacturers attention and they do not fix it, even after you're warranty expires they are reliable for it.
Thanks babe, i am one step ahead of ya and have all of that stuff in a folder already
All of my car maintenance history that is...

Where can i get the SSP 67 bulletin? You have a copy of it?
Old 02-05-2010 | 10:46 AM
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SSP 67: http://forum.rx8nl.com/mwf/attach/97/6997/ad-18.pdf

Scroll down and you will see that the torque converter is covered by this warranty. There is no reason that they should not have replaced the torque converter or all necessary parts until it was fixed.
Old 02-05-2010 | 01:03 PM
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UPDATE: Just got off the phone with the dealer..... looks like i need a new motor.... says its covered under warranty, i just need to give them my service records which i have at home and i am good to go hopefully
Old 02-05-2010 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by KimRene
Thanks babe, i am one step ahead of ya and have all of that stuff in a folder already
All of my car maintenance history that is...

Where can i get the SSP 67 bulletin? You have a copy of it?
You go Girl! Kick *** and take names . Keep us posted on the prognosis. And good luck. It is bad enough dealing with the dealers but in the kind of weather you folks are having, no thank you. Stay safe driving that stalling 8 ok.
Old 02-05-2010 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jmc23200
SSP 67: http://forum.rx8nl.com/mwf/attach/97/6997/ad-18.pdf

Scroll down and you will see that the torque converter is covered by this warranty. There is no reason that they should not have replaced the torque converter or all necessary parts until it was fixed.
I think i may have this service bulletin already that you gave me.... i have all my stuff at home but if i dont i will print it out and attach to my other records. Also this is from my original thread called "i need somones help!!!" So as you can see, i have been dealing with this **** for a longggggggg time.

Originally Posted by KimRene
My car I believe is having that issue of the torque converter lock up. I brought it several times to the dealership and its still under warranty and there is nothing that they can do to fix it except putting in a TCM Logic wich helps reduce the problem by 50% and not 100%

What my deal was is that at low speeds, (I have an AT) it was bucking like getting stuck between 2 and 3rd gear. It couldnt make up its mind. So I just wanted to let everyone know that what everyone is saying about this issue is very much true and I will now drive it in manual mode more often and drive my car so it red lines at least once every other day

Thanks for the advice all.
Old 02-05-2010 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by zoomidid
You go Girl! Kick *** and take names . Keep us posted on the prognosis. And good luck. It is bad enough dealing with the dealers but in the kind of weather you folks are having, no thank you. Stay safe driving that stalling 8 ok.
Trust me i have names! haha
Not driving my 8 now, i have a rental.... a Hyundai Sonata since Tuesday lol
Thanks for the postive and kind words.... will keep you all posted.
Old 02-05-2010 | 01:18 PM
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Glad you are getting a new engine Kim. Too bad it's taken this long before a dealer steps up, but hey, a free engine is never a bad thing

Actually, for 2004s and 2005s, getting a new engine INCREASES your car's value

Let me know if something comes up that you need help with
Old 02-05-2010 | 01:20 PM
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Am I still coming over with the massage oils?
Old 02-05-2010 | 02:20 PM
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haha nice. Glad to see you are getting a new engine. Remember, once the engine is replaced, bring it for a test drive to see if you still have the same problem. If you do, make a tech go for a ride with you to verify the problem. As hard as it may be, don't bring it home if there is still the initial problem when they are done.
Old 02-05-2010 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by KimRene
:sooooooooo pissssssssssssed offfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff ffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff :banghead

That dealership just called me back saying that they dont have the **** to fix my car, now i have to call up another dealership and find a way to have someone follow me to this dealership so i can drive this car to another one..... i f'n hate having ****!!! Dealerships always do this **** to woman, f'n fed up with this shittttttttt!
It is probably too far out of your way, but if your desperate to find a good dealer and a good rotary mechanic to work with, get hooked up with Werner Mazda in Manchester, NH. Kelly is the service writer on the Mazda service desk and Mark is a grrrreat rotary mechanic. If you troll VOODOO8 on a search of this site you'll see I've posted up on a bunch of issues they have helped me with, there are a bunch of others I haven't bothered to post on. Bottom line - good people!
Old 02-05-2010 | 09:45 PM
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I think you missed the part where the current dealer is giving her a new engine under warranty and the issue is resolved
Old 02-05-2010 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by KimRene
Now they just told me that the tool they had to check the compression was for an f'n 7 not for an 8..... are you f'n kidddddddding me?!?!?!?!?!?!

So now i have to pick up this thing, drop off my rental and find a 3rd dealership to take this f'n POS car too! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
It wouldn't make one wit of difference whether it was for a 7, an 8, or an old RePu. It's still a 1.3 Litre Mazda wankel. They are complete and utter morons for not realising that. The very slight differences in chamber geometry can be corrected for mathematically by multiplying by the appropriate correction factor, and that is also something they should know. They definitely sound like people who know intimately what the inside of their own rectums look like.
Old 02-06-2010 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
I think you missed the part where the current dealer is giving her a new engine under warranty and the issue is resolved
Issue isn't technically resolved yet. Her first problem that has been happening for a long time was blamed on the torque converter locking and causing her car to stall/jerk often if I remember right. The engine just so happens to be bad and need replacement. Hopefully all works out for the best and everything is fixed accordingly.
Old 02-06-2010 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by KimRene
Now they just told me that the tool they had to check the compression was for an f'n 7 not for an 8..... are you f'n kidddddddding me?!?!?!?!?!?!

So now i have to pick up this thing, drop off my rental and find a 3rd dealership to take this f'n POS car too! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
Originally Posted by RIWWP
I think you missed the part where the current dealer is giving her a new engine under warranty and the issue is resolved
Originally Posted by jmc23200
Issue isn't technically resolved yet. Her first problem that has been happening for a long time was blamed on the torque converter locking and causing her car to stall/jerk often if I remember right. The engine just so happens to be bad and need replacement. Hopefully all works out for the best and everything is fixed accordingly.
Hopefully, the transmission and torque convertor will be replaced at the same time as the engine, in order to minimise her down-time. As someone who will probably be joining the new engine club soon (engine starts easily when cold and runs great; but acts like it's flooded when trying to restart when warm) I am curious how long is typical for a dealer to swap a defective engine.
Old 02-06-2010 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by longpath
Hopefully, the transmission and torque convertor will be replaced at the same time as the engine, in order to minimise her down-time. As someone who will probably be joining the new engine club soon (engine starts easily when cold and runs great; but acts like it's flooded when trying to restart when warm) I am curious how long is typical for a dealer to swap a defective engine.
Try revving your engine to 3k rpm for 5-10 seconds and then turn your car off while still at those rpms. Then see if it starts back up ok in a few minutes.
Old 02-06-2010 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jmc23200
Try revving your engine to 3k rpm for 5-10 seconds and then turn your car off while still at those rpms. Then see if it starts back up ok in a few minutes.
When I remember to do that when the engine is warm, it helps. Unfortunately, since I have that in my mind as something to do when the engine is shut down cold, I need to learn a new habit of doing the "cold shut down" procedure when the engine is warm.

When I say warm, I mean the coolant temperature is at least 177F. At 200F, the problem is even worse.

Last edited by longpath; 02-06-2010 at 10:02 AM.
Old 02-06-2010 | 09:58 AM
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I usually only do it when it is really cold out. I never turn off the engine before it is fully warmed up and I never give my keys to someone else in fear that they will. Non rotary experienced people cause engine failures because "they know whats best"
Old 02-07-2010 | 02:10 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
Glad you are getting a new engine Kim. Too bad it's taken this long before a dealer steps up, but hey, a free engine is never a bad thing

Actually, for 2004s and 2005s, getting a new engine INCREASES your car's value

Let me know if something comes up that you need help with
We will see babe.... i gave them the paperwork so they better not try pulling a fast one. I will find out more Monday and will let you all know.
Old 02-07-2010 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Greenblurr93
Am I still coming over with the massage oils?
LMFAO!!! Helllllllllls yeah i still need a massage! lol
Old 02-07-2010 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by VOODOO8
It is probably too far out of your way, but if your desperate to find a good dealer and a good rotary mechanic to work with, get hooked up with Werner Mazda in Manchester, NH. Kelly is the service writer on the Mazda service desk and Mark is a grrrreat rotary mechanic. If you troll VOODOO8 on a search of this site you'll see I've posted up on a bunch of issues they have helped me with, there are a bunch of others I haven't bothered to post on. Bottom line - good people!
Thanks for the suggestion babe, if i were going to take it somewhere i would take it to the wakefield dealer cuz they are really good too from what i hear and have alot of experience.
Old 02-07-2010 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jmc23200
Issue isn't technically resolved yet. Her first problem that has been happening for a long time was blamed on the torque converter locking and causing her car to stall/jerk often if I remember right. The engine just so happens to be bad and need replacement. Hopefully all works out for the best and everything is fixed accordingly.
Agreed! I had the SSP 77 bulletin which is the same as the SSP67 one however this bulletin SSP 77 is updated with May 2008 and SSP 67 is August 2006. I have a copy of the SSP 77 at my work that i will post here tomorrow in case anyone needs it.
Old 02-07-2010 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by longpath
Hopefully, the transmission and torque convertor will be replaced at the same time as the engine, in order to minimise her down-time. As someone who will probably be joining the new engine club soon (engine starts easily when cold and runs great; but acts like it's flooded when trying to restart when warm) I am curious how long is typical for a dealer to swap a defective engine.
I really do hope that they replace the TCL since they screwed me the first time.... it was becuase they didnt honor their warranty to begin with is why my car is how it is now.... MNAO kept telling me that there was no fix to this but how can you make anything and not know anything on how to service it??? This whole time in my opinion.... the dealerships and MNAO just didnt want to replace it the first time so it is THEIR faults not my fault. I did everything to try to fix it. New coils, spark plugs, tranny flush.... i mean what else besides the CAT could i have done? If it was the CAT they should have picked up on that before. Just glad that i joined this club and i got to learn alot abotu my car from all of you.
Old 02-07-2010 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jmc23200
I usually only do it when it is really cold out. I never turn off the engine before it is fully warmed up and I never give my keys to someone else in fear that they will. Non rotary experienced people cause engine failures because "they know whats best"
I hear ya.... i let my sister borrow my car a couple of times and i tell always reminded her let the car run for a good 3-5 minutes cuz if you flood it i will kick your ***! haha :P
Old 02-07-2010 | 03:08 PM
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Kim,

Don't take this the wrong way

You can use this button to multi-quote.


Just click it for each post you want to respond to, and it will put it all in 1 reply. Just type the responses in-between each set of quotes
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Old 02-07-2010 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by KimRene
Agreed! I had the SSP 77 bulletin which is the same as the SSP67 one however this bulletin SSP 77 is updated with May 2008 and SSP 67 is August 2006. I have a copy of the SSP 77 at my work that i will post here tomorrow in case anyone needs it.
Incorrect. SSP 77 is the engine core warranty. It only covers the replacement of the engine core and nothing else. You need to pay for all necessary external gaskets, fluids, etc.

SSP 67 is the extended power train warranty which covers everything.

SSP 67 = free work

SSP 77 = low cost engine replacement.


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