Compression test?
#30
Hey hey please forgive me for bringing back a thread like this.
I did a lot of searching about compression testing, but one little detail I need confirmed for sure.
I bought an Equus Compression tester from Kragens and my buddy removed the check valve for me. I know the concept of compression tests, and how one of these conventional testers are designed to "check" one piston at a time.
After looking at a few youtube RX7 compression tests, I assume all that needs to be observed during a test on the RX8 is the needle which should stay pretty even during the three second crank in order to view the balance between the three faces of a rotor.
My question is, the compression tester I have reads from "30" to "300". So what, according to this specific tester (any autoparts store's tester) should the pressure be at? I recall reading through searches that 90ish should be the sweet spot. But I want to know for sure, especially from experienced rotor heads, what a good homemade compression test result should look like on one of these modified testers.
Thank you!
I did a lot of searching about compression testing, but one little detail I need confirmed for sure.
I bought an Equus Compression tester from Kragens and my buddy removed the check valve for me. I know the concept of compression tests, and how one of these conventional testers are designed to "check" one piston at a time.
After looking at a few youtube RX7 compression tests, I assume all that needs to be observed during a test on the RX8 is the needle which should stay pretty even during the three second crank in order to view the balance between the three faces of a rotor.
My question is, the compression tester I have reads from "30" to "300". So what, according to this specific tester (any autoparts store's tester) should the pressure be at? I recall reading through searches that 90ish should be the sweet spot. But I want to know for sure, especially from experienced rotor heads, what a good homemade compression test result should look like on one of these modified testers.
Thank you!
#31
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i have a question, my rx8 was recently dynoed i have an 04 grand touring 6spd, and i got chassis dynoed by a dyna pack protable one, (yes i know they are not that accurate[/i]) but, i lost a significant amount of power. I saw online on my fone at myrotarycar.com stock was running 178.4 hp, and 134.4 torque. My numbers were quite dismal with 148 hp to 128 torque. There is oil in my intake filter, but when i took out my intake filter i was still running consistant numbers. I was told to get a compression check done, but i was told it is probably not the case, i was also told that my CAT's could be bad and are impeding flow into my exhaust so i might need a whole new cat and a catback, but i am still not able to figure out how oil is going into my intake. Can anybody help me out? Tips? Advice? I ran synthetic in my car but i called up a mazda dealership nearby and they said "run regular oil, its a rotary, just run normal 5w-20" and i told them that one of their techs told me that i could run my car on regular but the guy at the dyno said just run premium, and that I'll get better curves and it'll unclog my injectors. Heres the low down on my car.
2004 Mazda RX8 6MT
stock, except for clutchmasters FX100 clutch.
Regular gas, and synthetic (which i plan on changing to regular)
2004 Mazda RX8 6MT
stock, except for clutchmasters FX100 clutch.
Regular gas, and synthetic (which i plan on changing to regular)
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