Man I think I'm screwed, bought this car in November thinking, awesome, a rotary, simple motor relatively cheap rebuild if it goes, 4 door sports car for me and my kid after the divorce (early onset midlife crisis off the port bow)....etc etc etc.. I'm stupid gotcha

All of that being said on to my problem, add some of you may have seen I recently came into a greddy strut tower bar and mishimoto cai came bundled with essentially free, two weekends ago I put on the bar and swapped my k&n for the mishimoto, added some oil and cleaned the MAF, when I reconnected the battery I had light smoke and it wouldn't idle, I wasn't overly concerned because in my experience so far the car runs like hell until the computer relearns. I don't oy around a bit the next day and it seemed to get better, I still though had to let the RPMs down gently to avoid stalling it. I then proceeded to catch the flu and not drive for a week.

now the well I've driven to and from work 12mi each way and while it doesn't doe every time I let the ROMs drop I still have to be careful, problem is the smoke is still there and it seems to be getting worse, smoking lightly once it gets warmed then once it gets hot there are times (not every time mind you) that when I stop at a stop light then start going if the wind is right I may turn into a cloud of my own blue smoke, though that level of smoke belching is few and far between.

My first thought was too much oil but the mishimoto is lacking the vacuum line from the oil feeder cap to the intake so I don't know how it would migrate,

Then I reset the memory and stomped it out again, nothing

Swapped the MAF (with a used off the other intake) also with no results

My only thought at this point is an oil seal o in the motor is gone but I'm trying any haul may because unfortunately this has happened at the worst possible financial time and a rebuild is pretty much the same feasibility as buying a fully built race motor and this is my only car to get my kid to school and myself to work

Any direction from the community would be appreciated more than you know

Thanks ahead of time
TLP

 

Smoke in the exhaust tends to be coolant with this car. If there's a lot of coolant entering the system, you'll see the buildup on your plugs. This obviously means a rebuild or some "coolant leak sealant" that can put it off a rebuild for a limited amount of time. Pull the plugs and see if you can find some residue. (Typically green in color if the car has the stock FL22 coolant inside).

Oil seal failure (on either rotor) can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and cause the smoke. Only option is a rebuild.

Obviously in either scenario, a simple fluid level check would point towards a culprit. Finally, ignition health is always a concern on this car (check your plugs/wires/coils).

 

Mishimoto cai?

Cheap rebuild means garbage, always been and always will

Well, it sounds like ur oil control ring seal crap out, but cant be 100% sure unless seen in person, have somone local who knows the car to look at it

 

Plugs/coils/starter/wires are all new, I'm always losing coolant as my resev reservoir is cracked but I to of regularly, I'm almost completely I've narrowed it to oil by color/smell and my exhaust never used to get but a little carbon build up on it, over the last week the exhaust has more black carbon build up than I've ever seen on a the car. I can't seem to fathom what caused to car was rubbing fine, parked it, parked, disconnected the battery, did the two installs, added a bit of oil turned it back on and there was smoke

 

well it looks like a little bit a good luck, will knock on wood don't want to count our chickens before they hatch. But a friend of mine did not want my car broken down, it upset her to think of me without my car and my son without his race car. So she said for me to look into it she said that she's got about $3000 that she can give me before and her husband would be upset so it looks like I am going to be ordering a mazmart again knock on wood. she did advise that there are couple other girl friend of hers and Friends of mine that would like to chip in, are there any other absolute necessity changes when you do the motor?

thank you, much appreciation ahead of time
TLP

 

Good luck buddy

 

Wot?!?!?
I wish I had a bunch of babes paying for repairs on my car.
Screw your engine post pics.

 

Not going to let her do it unless absolutely necessary, going to ask the president of my company first. Man driving to work today sucked, heel toeing in reverse, braking and keeping the revs up so it doesnt die


Were there any other theories on why there would be smoke in the exhaust?

 

Looks like coolant leak to me...
Any seal leak on the motor means rebuild.

Just my 2 cents.

 

I really think its oil, just the smell, the 300% increase in the soot and carbon build up in the exhaust pipes, just screams oil

 

Well a bullet MAY have been dodged, last night I got restless and popped the hood, when I had installed the intake I capped 2 of the 3 vacuum hose nipples, the 3rd I couldn't find after trying for quite a while so I plugged the house itself. Well last night I decided damn it I'm finding it, will I followed the hose and found it attached to nothing. After a painstaking process I found the nipple (the oil metering nozzle which would explain the smoke and burning oil) and capped it. Shockingly, at first there was minuscule amounts of some, so little that if you weren't looking for it you wouldn't notice it, now having driven it a little bit (no more than 5 miles) THERE IS NO SMOKE!

That being said I can't get too excited because while if I start the car cold it will idle all day long, the moment however I start going it will die when the RPMs drop, as well, when I start the car hot it fires up no problem but dies immediately. I'm crossing my fingers it just has to do with the ecu learning due to me resetting after capping that line add in my experience my 8 takes a good 3 or 4 days to learn and stop running like crap after a reset

 

Glad the smoke is clearing. I suspected some fault with the metering system, just not in the volume you described--which I why I didn't mention it. Learn something new everyday. Just, don't spend multiple days getting the fuel trims to settle. Every time I pull the battery, I use this procedure to reset the fuel trims:

1. Warm the engine / turn off all accessories (AC, headlights, etc.)
3. Rev the engine to 2,500--3,500 and hold for at least 15 seconds.
4. Increase the rpm to 4,500--5,000 and hold for at least 15 seconds.
5. Return to idle, wait 2-3 minutes at idle.
6. Turn off the car.

Takes 15 minutes, not 4 days and the fuel trims should align after you restart the car. If you can't idle after that, then we're likely looking at more vacuum leaks, bad sensors, etc.

 

Thanks, I will give that a shot, my only question is, if it wont idle once warm, how do you return to idle and wait for 2-3 minutes as it says in step 5, wont it die? Either way, going to go run that process when I go to lunch in about a half an hour

*edit* just as I suspected, once the revving process was completed, idle dropped to dead

 

Yes, the car will die. The idea is to softly adjust the accelerator to keep rpms around 800-1000. This mimics a complete drive cycle after the engine cools off.