Coolant Light on Dash
06-14-2013 | 10:21 PM
#377
Mu ha.. ha...
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,361
Likes: 3
From: Cali
Okay, I need to jump in on this thread.... I have an '04 rx8, having same issue with coolant light. Took it to Berge Mazda awhile back and was told it was just the sensor. Then last Thursday on my way to work, the temp gauge pinned to the right, I smelled anti-freeze, then the needle dropped all the way to the left. I pulled off the highway immediately, let the bitch cool down, then called my neighbor who showed up with 2 gallons of water. I waited a bit, then put water in it. She started up, but it was a little funky on start up, like cranked a bit slow. I chalked it up to the engine still being hot. She idled perfect, and had power. I drove her home and she was puking her guts again. At this point I figured it was the thermostat. The reason I figured this was she wasnt blowing coolant out of the tail pipes, nothing was leaking out of the rad.... Next morning I brought it to my mechanic and she was already puking again. I told him what I thought, and he agreed, so he put in a new therm. I went to pick the car up, and the mechanic was on a test drive. WHEN HE GOT BACK SHE WAS PUKING AGAIN. The owner said maybe they didn't burp the system enough, and there was an air pocket in there, so he said they would try it again. Same ****. So now he says my motor is shot. Does this sound legit? This is my first engine in this car, she has 74k. I have read about the issues, but like I said, there is no smoke out the tail, and no water in the oil. Please help. This is also my first rotary, so if I left out any pertinent info, please let me know.
You may need a water pump. However heat is the enemy of the rotory or any car.
You can not drive an RX 8 at all if it overheats. You will blow up the engine.
06-15-2013 | 02:49 PM
#379
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: State of insanity
um sweatr... you're using an oil temperature gauge to keep track of your water temp? I guess it's okay if you're working on horsehoes or hand grenades. Assume your water is any where +/- 25 degrees of oil.
This should work well up to the point something serious goes wrong.
This should work well up to the point something serious goes wrong.
Um , no dude I bought the gauge you see and I am buying another digital coolant gauge and mounting them on my piller( Drivers side
) Just kidding dude. I am mounting them on my piller at least I think I am at this point. I will have a didital read out of both oil and temperature. I spoke with my mechanic at Mazda yesterday as to where in the stream is best to place the oil sensor and the coolant sensor. Ifd nothing else , this digital gauge pleases me and its my car right?, beside who can argue of keeping track of oil and coolant temperature any way. I think the point is that these gauges make me aware way before the stock float and dash idiot gauge do and in doing so they will make me aware of some thing serious going wrong quicker than your stock dash gauge or the coolant sensor. Plus I don't have to talk about the coolant tank or the iffy dash gauge any more, how cool is that right?.
Last edited by sweatr; 06-15-2013 at 02:56 PM.
06-16-2013 | 04:59 PM
#382
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: State of insanity
No joke dude, I couldn't agree more and I don't have to see that poorly made coolant alarm come on every time I hit the 8000 rpm mark and I do that at least 4 or 5 times I drive it. Digitasl gauges are the best at this point
.
06-22-2013 | 06:23 AM
#383
New Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Use a screwdriver!!
I had read through all the various solutions to this light problem and had finally opted for getting a replacement tank. The installation looked slightly daunting as I couldn't afford to damage any hoses so I had a quick look at the replacement before starting.
The sensor is a simple proximity one that could easily be changed. As everyone kept saying this was embedded I had to look further and realised that it is the ball float that sets off the proximity sensor that is embedded inside retainer in the tank. A quick knock on this ball with a long screwdriver dislodged it with the tank still in-situ and the light went off!! Far too easy a solution but gives a bit more depth to why this happening and potential other solutions for those of you where the simple screwdriver trick does not work or the problem is intermittent.
Make ball float by:-
Ripping out the entire tank now seems ludicrous
The sensor is a simple proximity one that could easily be changed. As everyone kept saying this was embedded I had to look further and realised that it is the ball float that sets off the proximity sensor that is embedded inside retainer in the tank. A quick knock on this ball with a long screwdriver dislodged it with the tank still in-situ and the light went off!! Far too easy a solution but gives a bit more depth to why this happening and potential other solutions for those of you where the simple screwdriver trick does not work or the problem is intermittent.
Make ball float by:-
- try changing the concentration of the fluid mix to a level where it does float
- use the recommended antifreeze
- add some extra bouyancy to the ball somehow
Ripping out the entire tank now seems ludicrous
06-22-2013 | 11:22 AM
#384
Registered
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,027
Likes: 5
From: Northern Virginia
There is a post somewhere on this site (don't think it's in this thread, though) by someone who replaced the original sinking float with a wine cork. He cut a hole in the tank to get to it, then patched the hole with a couple of fender washers, some rubber gasket material, and a screw.
My own fix (which I've already posted at least a couple of times) is still working.
Ken
My own fix (which I've already posted at least a couple of times) is still working.
Ken
06-23-2013 | 09:13 PM
#385
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: State of insanity
There is a post somewhere on this site (don't think it's in this thread, though) by someone who replaced the original sinking float with a wine cork. He cut a hole in the tank to get to it, then patched the hole with a couple of fender washers, some rubber gasket material, and a screw.
My own fix (which I've already posted at least a couple of times) is still working.
Ken
My own fix (which I've already posted at least a couple of times) is still working.
Ken
Mazda's idea does not float
07-16-2013 | 09:38 PM
#386
A Torque-Free Zone
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 859
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach
I just replaced mine again with part -351G; the first time was under warranty and it was replaced with part -350H. The original lasted just over 3 years, the second just over 5 years before going bad.
I did not disconnect the radiator end on the lower front hose. I pushed back the bottle just enough to expose the hose connection, then used needle nose pliers to slide back the clamp and work the hose loose. I could see where it connected to the radiator and took care to minimize torquing and bending at that end. It's a stiff hose, so any significant force at the top could fracture the attachment at the bottom. This way, I avoided having to break loose the radiator end of the hose. It went off and on easily.
I did not disconnect the radiator end on the lower front hose. I pushed back the bottle just enough to expose the hose connection, then used needle nose pliers to slide back the clamp and work the hose loose. I could see where it connected to the radiator and took care to minimize torquing and bending at that end. It's a stiff hose, so any significant force at the top could fracture the attachment at the bottom. This way, I avoided having to break loose the radiator end of the hose. It went off and on easily.
07-16-2013 | 10:31 PM
#387
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,869
Likes: 327
From: Australia
Yep, unless you initially had the .350M complete Bottle renewed you did not have the latests...now with .351G you do.
This is the Nipple on plastic top radiator tank which can break when renewing Coolant Bottle and replacing nipple Hose..
This is the Nipple on plastic top radiator tank which can break when renewing Coolant Bottle and replacing nipple Hose..
07-17-2013 | 04:59 AM
#388
Someone may have already suggested that, I don't recall seeing it.
07-17-2013 | 07:33 AM
#389
Yes, that is the recommendation. Mazmart sells the coolant bottles with a new hose for that nipple specifically so you can cut the hose to avoid the risk.
<- this guy learned that the hard way AFTER breaking the nipple
<- this guy learned that the hard way AFTER breaking the nipple
08-10-2013 | 04:24 PM
#390
New Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hi,
I also encountered this issue and I'm currently reading up on the issue and I'm trying to decide what to do about it.
During my research I've come across this: Floatless Coolant Sensor - advertised as a permanent solution to the problem.
Now, generally the rx8club forums includes tomnes of knowledge about all things RX8 but for some reason I can't find any mention about this. (sorry if I didn't look hard enough, the forums are huge).
So, what do you think about this alternative solution? Would it work? Would it be more permanent than changing the tank (which seems to slowly fail again each time)? Have anybody tested it with any success?
I also encountered this issue and I'm currently reading up on the issue and I'm trying to decide what to do about it.
During my research I've come across this: Floatless Coolant Sensor - advertised as a permanent solution to the problem.
Now, generally the rx8club forums includes tomnes of knowledge about all things RX8 but for some reason I can't find any mention about this. (sorry if I didn't look hard enough, the forums are huge).
So, what do you think about this alternative solution? Would it work? Would it be more permanent than changing the tank (which seems to slowly fail again each time)? Have anybody tested it with any success?
08-26-2013 | 12:14 PM
#391
Registered
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario
Interesting find! The website doesn't seem to sell the thing or mention a price or who does but I did a web search and it's for sale on Ebay Australia. Why Australia when the seller is in Singapore I can't say! Not to mention the seller's rather odd name - "beads_n_crafts"
Anyway, seems to be about $100 shipped worldwide, so cheaper and possibly less hassle to install than a new tank. Hmmmmm.....
Anyway, seems to be about $100 shipped worldwide, so cheaper and possibly less hassle to install than a new tank. Hmmmmm.....
08-26-2013 | 01:34 PM
#393
08-31-2013 | 05:16 PM
#395
Registered
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Watertown, TN
mine comes on daily typically when im on the freeway doing 75 or so. at slower speeds too just not near as much. usually stays on for maybe 30 sec. or so then goes out. sometimes a bit longer but not much.
03-23-2014 | 10:11 PM
#400
Well, as long as you are keeping an eye on your coolant fluid level. You won't be saying "whatever" if the reason why your light is ON, because of a leak somewhere not because you have a faulty sensor.