Coolant seal failure repair
#1
Coolant seal failure repair
I am afraid I have a. Coolant seal failure,last night I was on my way home and heater stopped working ,I pulled into m garage and it was showing hot . I checked water bottle and it was low.I added antifreez and water more than it should be .I checked underneath and saw no leaks. I started it back up (started fine) I need to fuel her up I headed out to station but temp gauge went over Half way .I turned around and came back home.I went less than a mile ,I pulled back into my garage and saw where cool at had dumped out. AT this point it was wtf.... where am I losing coolant from .??
I poured water into water bottle and I heard a loud pop (oh %&$*) coolant was leaking from a new lower radiator nose . I fixed that and refilled with coolant . She was hard to start . When she started lotfs of white smoke from exhaust .over flow was spraying water bubbles coming up in water bottle .spewing coolant out overflow. No heat in cab ...I cut her off ate dinner and went back out, hard to start once started pressure cap is popping off ? White smoke from dxhaust---
What is involved in a coolant seal repair? Stuck thermo stat??
Thoughts comments prayers please
I,all pull plugs after work tomorrow d see if they are wet ?
I poured water into water bottle and I heard a loud pop (oh %&$*) coolant was leaking from a new lower radiator nose . I fixed that and refilled with coolant . She was hard to start . When she started lotfs of white smoke from exhaust .over flow was spraying water bubbles coming up in water bottle .spewing coolant out overflow. No heat in cab ...I cut her off ate dinner and went back out, hard to start once started pressure cap is popping off ? White smoke from dxhaust---
What is involved in a coolant seal repair? Stuck thermo stat??
Thoughts comments prayers please
I,all pull plugs after work tomorrow d see if they are wet ?
#2
You need to pressure test the cooling system. The stock gauge doesn't even move until 240F which is at the limit of what the engine can take. Replacing the seals requires an engine rebuild. You can also take an oil sample and have it tested for the presence of coolant or do a coolant hydrocarbon test.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 01-28-2015 at 09:42 PM.
#3
OP,
In all honesty it's not exactly easy to follow your chain of events.
From everything that i have gathered, you were losing coolant from somewhere and after your temp needle had jumped to far(many cases it's overheated before the needle moves).
You found the coolant leak was a lower Rad hose and have since fixed the issue. Well first off you need to bleed your coolant system of air and fill it properly. While your at it, i would pull the plugs and disconnect the ESS. Give it a few turns (crank the car) and see if coolant spews out of the plug holes, if so your seal has indeed failed.
If you have the ability you can pressure test the cooling system.
Even the slightest overheat can warp housings. Ask me how i know...
A coolant seal "repair" means your tearing the engine down.
Report back with your results.
Travis
In all honesty it's not exactly easy to follow your chain of events.
From everything that i have gathered, you were losing coolant from somewhere and after your temp needle had jumped to far(many cases it's overheated before the needle moves).
You found the coolant leak was a lower Rad hose and have since fixed the issue. Well first off you need to bleed your coolant system of air and fill it properly. While your at it, i would pull the plugs and disconnect the ESS. Give it a few turns (crank the car) and see if coolant spews out of the plug holes, if so your seal has indeed failed.
If you have the ability you can pressure test the cooling system.
Even the slightest overheat can warp housings. Ask me how i know...
A coolant seal "repair" means your tearing the engine down.
Report back with your results.
Travis
#5
Assuming that is the problem the only repair is to rebuild or replace the engine
As far as the OE gauge is concerned, on a dyno I've hit the high end of the needle range and not blown the coolant seals. So don't always take some of the forum folklore as concrete fact ...
As far as the OE gauge is concerned, on a dyno I've hit the high end of the needle range and not blown the coolant seals. So don't always take some of the forum folklore as concrete fact ...
#6
I pressure tested system to 15 lbs I thiink Mazda says 17 lb max ...it would not hold pressure . Lost about a lb per min . ?????? I have to take pressure test equipment back ,Ill pul plugs after I get back
#8
Yeah it doesn't take much to kill the coolant seals. Some people just get lucky and overheat without doing permanent damage. I saw one that melted the OMP lines it overheated do bad and the owner said that it "barely overheated".
#9
i did it by doing somthng very stupid ! The loud pop , Like a 22 shot going off when I put cold water into a hot engine . SO I have the stupid sign !! LOL Or God is keeping me out of a bad wreck !!
Time to look for Mazda reman short block !
Time to look for Mazda reman short block !
#12
update I pulled the leading plugs. . Turned her over water shot out of both rotors . I drained coolant out , put a couple onces of oil in each rotor ,turned her over to displace water. Its going be a few days before I can pull motor.
#14
I would suggest contacting Rob @ Pineapple racing, he built my engine and it was a great process and the engine has held up well even with the turbo. Whether you use him or not you may want to consider using his heavy duty coolant seals in your rebuild.
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