cmaderia10

Does anyone have a write up on how to flush brake fluid from the brakes with speed bleeders. I was planning to order some brake fluid and speed bleeders and I only saw a write up on how to drain brakes without them. Thanks,

Chad

Loki

iTrader: (1)

It's exactly the same as without them, you just don't need a second person. That's the "speed" part. The speed bleeder's own manual should explain its use? See if there's a write up for a Miata or almost any other Japanese car. There's nothing much special on the 8 in that regard.

cmaderia10

Thanks.

cmaderia10

as far as the clutch goes, is it only the bleeder next to the oil filter? Also is there one for the brake fluid reservoir/master cylinder or does that bleed out when your bleed the brakes/clutch. Sorry this is my first time doing this and I have read many posts.

Thanks,

Chad

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Series 1s have a bleeder on the master cylinder, I think it might have been removed for Series 2 but not sure. Anyway bleeding the brakes properly bleeds the master cylinder as well.

The slave cylinder which you see behind the oil filter is the only bleeding point.

Why are you doing all this bleeding anyway?

cmaderia10

Thanks Loki, my brake fluid is a golden brown color and I was thinking of racing my car at the track. So I was going to bleed all the fluid out and replace it with dot 4. I replaced brake pads and rotors last month. Just thought it would be good to do.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

You'll probably want a separate set of track brake pads if you get into tracking regularly, and with that come regular brake bleedings. The clutch you can mostly leave alone once you've got a fresh fluid fill.

cmaderia10

I don't know what you mean about regularly, I haven't been there yet but want to try. I've done oil, transmission, differential, pads and discs. I want to do coolant and brake fluid because they haven't been changed since I bought this car 12 years ago. For the clutch bleed it is behind the oil filter right? is that the only one? Thanks,

Chad

cmaderia10

oh sorry, you answered the clutch question already.

_JB_

I believe you have that backwards. DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1 are compatible with each other but don't, "downgrade" to a lower DOT fluid (example if your car says to use DOT4, do NOT put in DOT3).

DOT5 is silicone based and not compatible with other brake fluids, and do not use it unless the vehicle specifically states to use it (I have never seen a car use DOT5).

cmaderia10

Ok. So for example, if a car had dot 3 after I bleed in, and I want to put in dot 4, I can't? Just for clarification.

Thanks.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, Yes you're right I got it backwards. Comment deleted.
Dot 4 is fine.

cmaderia10

thanks. Last question sorry. I've seen some differences in the posts on this. Is it 7mm for front, 10mm for rear for brakes, and 8 mm for clutch, master cylinder? or is it something different?

Thanks.

cmaderia10

Hi everyone. I got my speed bleeders in today. Likewise this is the last maintenance I will be doing on my car for a while. I've seen some videos and read some write ups.

My questions are, starting from rear passenger, I take the bleed screw off, put speed bleeder on, screw it in with a bleeder bag on it, then pump brake?

When should I bleed master cylinder, and clutch slave cylinder? If anyone has a write up on how to do this with speed bleeders I would appreciate it.

Thanks

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Ideally you don't bleed the master, it should never see air, but if you must, do it last. The idea is to bleed starting from the farthest point to the nearest.

Otherwise yes you have the right idea for the bleeders. You turn the speedbleeders so they're openable, put the bag on, pump, then turn then back into fully closed like you do with the regular bleeders.