ECU/PCM "flash" Info/questions
#302
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Are you sure a battery would solve the problem? Because the car eventually decides it wants to try and crank over and start. I would tend to think that if it were a battery problem then it would not start at all and deffinately not make a whole lot of electrical (relay) clicking noises before even trying to crank. To me it makes sense that a lack of CCA would cause the car to have trouble cranking, it just doesn't explain the clicking noises. Unless the computer is telling the car there's not enough battery juice and not letting it even try. Not to mention this problem just started happening within the last two weeks and I previously had nearly 2 months trouble free starting.
#303
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Originally posted by boyer_tom
Are you sure a battery would solve the problem? Because the car eventually decides it wants to try and crank over and start. I would tend to think that if it were a battery problem then it would not start at all and deffinately not make a whole lot of electrical (relay) clicking noises before even trying to crank.
Are you sure a battery would solve the problem? Because the car eventually decides it wants to try and crank over and start. I would tend to think that if it were a battery problem then it would not start at all and deffinately not make a whole lot of electrical (relay) clicking noises before even trying to crank.
This does not mean that the battery is OK as it could cause the issue if there were say a cell failing resulting in low voltage.
It could also be a problem in your wiring harness your ignition switch and a multitude of other things including something as simple as a bad sensor.
The point here is, get it to a dealer where they can diagnose the exact cause and fix it before any further harm may be done to you or your 8. Don't wait for it to completely fail on the freeway in rush hour traffic or when flying around a corner at 120.
#305
Well had my RX8 in today for the M-flash today. I also filled my tank up on the way home to see if gas milage improves at all. The most I have gotten so far is 20 MPG . Time will tell for this flash for over all performence. They wrote bill up as hard start short trips ( no charge of course ). On thing though they told me that you should bring both keys with when you get this done because in directions they got for flash it says that your other key may not start the car because of the cumputer change, I checked when I got home and it starts the car.
ers
ers
#306
Unbalanced & Unmedicated
re: starting difficulty
B-T,
That sounds like electrical issues bro'. Take it back to the dealer and get that looked at. Mine has given me a few instances of long crank times to start but nothing like what you described. Even with the "M" flash it'll sometime takes 3 or 4 seconds to fire up. Get it checked
That sounds like electrical issues bro'. Take it back to the dealer and get that looked at. Mine has given me a few instances of long crank times to start but nothing like what you described. Even with the "M" flash it'll sometime takes 3 or 4 seconds to fire up. Get it checked
#307
Got my M flash today. Noticed the 1 - 2 shift is much smoother. I may have detected a bit more power, but it could be just psychosomatic.
I will be interested to see if the gas mileage improves. Mine is one that was already pretty good (22 mpg, mostly highway miles) so I'm not sure if I'll notice much difference. Will let everyone know if I notice much of a change.
I will be interested to see if the gas mileage improves. Mine is one that was already pretty good (22 mpg, mostly highway miles) so I'm not sure if I'll notice much difference. Will let everyone know if I notice much of a change.
#308
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Originally posted by snap-on
If you work at a Ford dealer why bother going to the Mz dealer?
Your WDS has the Mz updates.
I continue to read these horror stories about dealers. Why not just call and find one that will fulfill your needs and start a relationship there?
If you work at a Ford dealer why bother going to the Mz dealer?
Your WDS has the Mz updates.
I continue to read these horror stories about dealers. Why not just call and find one that will fulfill your needs and start a relationship there?
#309
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Thank you, Hiley
Called me service folks at Hiley Mazda in south Arlington yesterday to find out what the status is with the replacement console parts I've been waiting on for 2 months now (seems 2 out of 4 have come in) and while we were talking, I told Chantel, the service manager, that by looking at my VIN, it appeared I only had the "L" flash and without hesitation she says "Yeah, you need to be updated" in a rather eager tone. Really! Wow! Setting up an appointment for this Friday. Will get back with feedback.
So far, though - thumbs up, Hiley!
Tall.............
So far, though - thumbs up, Hiley!
Tall.............
#310
How many have had the car flood after "M" flash
I know that some of you are going to tell me to search but i have already read every thread about the m flash and the flooding issues. I would really like to get an rx-8 but the flooding issue is really making me have second thoughts. Has anyone still managed to flood the car after having the m flash? Also how likely do you think it is that this issue (flooding) will be fixed on the 2005 model if the m flash hasn't already fixed it? Thanks I hope this problem has been fixed I REALLY want to like this car but with the flooding i don't know if I can...
#311
I never flooded it before the "M" flash - had it since August, 15,000 miles. It's not that big of a deal - just let the car warm up before you turn it off. You should still do that, even after the "M" flash. Go for it, as long as you're aware of the possibility, you shouldn't have any troubles.
#312
Registered
Ditto, had mine since July, never flooded it. I got the M flash last month, but obviously it hasn't made any difference to me! Just let the engine warm up for 2 or 3 minutes after a COLD start, and it will never flood. After it's warm, you can do short trips and stop and start it all day with no issues. It really is not that big a deal! I've had more flat tires (1, last month, first flat I've had in about 15 years) than floods. Are you not worried about having no spare tire? It's more likely to be an issue!
Regards,
Gordon
PS - I'm still not worried about having no spare, despite the flat.
Regards,
Gordon
PS - I'm still not worried about having no spare, despite the flat.
#313
I was just wondering because i went to the dealer for a test drive and after two tries to get it started i couldn't. The dealer then told me to let him give it a try and i observed as he tried to start it using the WOT method. It then started with no problems. If I do decide to get the car I will definetely allow it to warm up first (do this with my current car already). Is it always necessary to rev to 4000 rpm and then turn the engine off or do i just do this when it's cold? Also can I just turn it off normally if it didn't have time to warm up and then start at WOT the next time? Sorry for all the questions but this will be the first car i have ever had of any significant value. Come to thinnk of it, it will be the second car i have ever owned. thanks
#315
9000 miles and I dont do anything special and it doesn't flood. I haved owned a first and 3rd gen rx7 also, none ever flooded.
Flooding a rotary is a fallacy created by those that hate everything that is good and wholesome in the automotive world.
I do nothing special. Infact, saturday mornings I start the car, back it up on the street. Turn off, wash, turn on, pull in driveway, turn off. sometimes put gas in the car after that (drive a minute at most). I never, ever flood.
your all crazy.
Flooding a rotary is a fallacy created by those that hate everything that is good and wholesome in the automotive world.
I do nothing special. Infact, saturday mornings I start the car, back it up on the street. Turn off, wash, turn on, pull in driveway, turn off. sometimes put gas in the car after that (drive a minute at most). I never, ever flood.
your all crazy.
#316
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Originally posted by JSmith
I was just wondering because i went to the dealer for a test drive and after two tries to get it started i couldn't. The dealer then told me to let him give it a try and i observed as he tried to start it using the WOT method. It then started with no problems. If I do decide to get the car I will definetely allow it to warm up first (do this with my current car already). Is it always necessary to rev to 4000 rpm and then turn the engine off or do i just do this when it's cold? Also can I just turn it off normally if it didn't have time to warm up and then start at WOT the next time? Sorry for all the questions but this will be the first car i have ever had of any significant value. Come to thinnk of it, it will be the second car i have ever owned. thanks
I was just wondering because i went to the dealer for a test drive and after two tries to get it started i couldn't. The dealer then told me to let him give it a try and i observed as he tried to start it using the WOT method. It then started with no problems. If I do decide to get the car I will definetely allow it to warm up first (do this with my current car already). Is it always necessary to rev to 4000 rpm and then turn the engine off or do i just do this when it's cold? Also can I just turn it off normally if it didn't have time to warm up and then start at WOT the next time? Sorry for all the questions but this will be the first car i have ever had of any significant value. Come to thinnk of it, it will be the second car i have ever owned. thanks
... and you only have to worry about flooding when the engine is completely cold.
#317
Maybe I didn't turn the key long enough (I hadn't read in detail about the flooding until after I went for the test drive. Also what is the normal break-in period for the Renesis, 1000 miles, 1500; how many? I ask because the dealer was taking it all the way to 9000 rpm at WOT with only 25 miles on the odometer. We got up to 95 in a 45 mile an hour zone!!! If i buy a car from that dealer i will definetely order one from the factory.
#320
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Originally posted by JSmith
Maybe I didn't turn the key long enough (I hadn't read in detail about the flooding until after I went for the test drive. Also what is the normal break-in period for the Renesis, 1000 miles, 1500; how many? I ask because the dealer was taking it all the way to 9000 rpm at WOT with only 25 miles on the odometer. We got up to 95 in a 45 mile an hour zone!!! If i buy a car from that dealer i will definetely order one from the factory.
Maybe I didn't turn the key long enough (I hadn't read in detail about the flooding until after I went for the test drive. Also what is the normal break-in period for the Renesis, 1000 miles, 1500; how many? I ask because the dealer was taking it all the way to 9000 rpm at WOT with only 25 miles on the odometer. We got up to 95 in a 45 mile an hour zone!!! If i buy a car from that dealer i will definetely order one from the factory.
#321
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i called Mazda today, and they said i need to have a recall form for the M flash? is this true? i bought mine last year july, and the only recalls for my 8 are the damper and the air bag?
please advise
thanks
please advise
thanks
#322
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You all have to find better dealers.
There is a Service bulletin out, # 01-011/04 saying "Because of this revision, all vehickles with previous calibrations should be updated to at least the "M" calibration level. This includes vehicles coming in to the dealer for repairs unrelated to the no start concern, or normal scheduled maintenance."
it is the 6th paragraph on the first page.
if your vehicle was produced after 03/12/04 and VIN is JM1FE17**40135537 or later, you already have the "M" calibration and do not require an updated calibration.
I called my dealer, and they said sure, bring it down. They did it for me that same morning on my way to work while I waited. No questions asked.
the Service sheet says Customer requested "M" calibration.
There is a Service bulletin out, # 01-011/04 saying "Because of this revision, all vehickles with previous calibrations should be updated to at least the "M" calibration level. This includes vehicles coming in to the dealer for repairs unrelated to the no start concern, or normal scheduled maintenance."
it is the 6th paragraph on the first page.
if your vehicle was produced after 03/12/04 and VIN is JM1FE17**40135537 or later, you already have the "M" calibration and do not require an updated calibration.
I called my dealer, and they said sure, bring it down. They did it for me that same morning on my way to work while I waited. No questions asked.
the Service sheet says Customer requested "M" calibration.