View Poll Results: Have you flooded your Renesis?
YES
1,351
54.87%
NO
1,111
45.13%
Voters: 2462. You may not vote on this poll
Engine Flooding Info/Questions
#601
I just went out to the car and tried it.
It works as I decribed. I just got in the car (no key in) and pushed the eject button. The last cd i was listening to ejected.
Trust me. It works.
Takashi 7
It works as I decribed. I just got in the car (no key in) and pushed the eject button. The last cd i was listening to ejected.
Trust me. It works.
Takashi 7
#602
RX-8 wannabe no more
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: Brisbane, Sunny Queensland, Australia
I regularly empty the changer in my '8 without a key - simply pressing the eject button repeatedly - with appropriate pauses for CD's to change).
Every car I have used a CD player in does the same.
Every car I have used a CD player in does the same.
#603
Originally Posted by bay
....... while i was at the dealer they gave me a new flash for the hard start issues, told me about a new battery that mazda is providing (higher cranking power) to help with the hard cold starts. said that would be about a month off and to come back for it. .........
#607
Originally Posted by Yeller8
thanx to this board I was able to start it without a tow. I did the start with the gas pedal fully depressed a few times and it finally kicked. I had to charge battery with jumper cables because i really drained it. The reason I flooded is the same as we have all been warned.........started it to take out CD and shut it a minute later.
#608
Don't use ATF!!
Well the Mazda FI rotary cars have had flooding issues all the way back to the 84 GSL-SE, then the second gens, third gens, and now the Rx-8. Damn--think they would learn a few things. I have some good advice that may help some of you.
First, when starting the engine, the ECU primes the system with fuel for start-up. It may be too much, especially if you don't have enough compression to burn it. The lack of compression can be from several things: very cold, low rpm during cranking, little or no oil being injected into the rotors. A very common work around is to install a fuel kill switch. Leave the fuel off for about 2 or 3 seconds during start-up cranking, then turn it on. On shut down, turn the fuel off at the kill switch with the EGI system still on. This will tend to consume any fuel left in the rotors. You may be able to do the same thing by cranking with the gas pedal all the way down for three seconds then let off the gas. I know you have the deflood option but I'm not sure it disables the fuel priming during start-up.
Second, you may want to try premixing your gas with about 6 oz of 2-stroke (TCW3) oil per tank. This will help provide lubrication when the oil is too cold to get pumped instantly into the rotors. Remember it takes a finite amount of time for the OMP system to actually get some oil into the chambers--especially when very cold. Premix avoids this problem by putting in some sealing oil with the gas. Even when you get flooded the premix will hang around to help seal. Worth a try. (note: lets not get into the premix debate here, I'm sure there are at least 10 other threads that debate it).
I know you guys don't like to hear about band aid fixes for your new 30k car, but it seems you have the same problems earlier generations have had. I've had two FI rotaries and have never had this flooding problem--maybe cause this climate is very mild even in the winter.
Oh and DON'T use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to rebuild compression after flooding. This was a very old way of regaining compression after a flood. Use the 2-stroke oil instead, it will do the same job and was made to be burned in a combustion chamber, ATF was not. The ATF can destroy your cat, trust me they are very expensive and nothing good will come of it.
HTH,
Scott
First, when starting the engine, the ECU primes the system with fuel for start-up. It may be too much, especially if you don't have enough compression to burn it. The lack of compression can be from several things: very cold, low rpm during cranking, little or no oil being injected into the rotors. A very common work around is to install a fuel kill switch. Leave the fuel off for about 2 or 3 seconds during start-up cranking, then turn it on. On shut down, turn the fuel off at the kill switch with the EGI system still on. This will tend to consume any fuel left in the rotors. You may be able to do the same thing by cranking with the gas pedal all the way down for three seconds then let off the gas. I know you have the deflood option but I'm not sure it disables the fuel priming during start-up.
Second, you may want to try premixing your gas with about 6 oz of 2-stroke (TCW3) oil per tank. This will help provide lubrication when the oil is too cold to get pumped instantly into the rotors. Remember it takes a finite amount of time for the OMP system to actually get some oil into the chambers--especially when very cold. Premix avoids this problem by putting in some sealing oil with the gas. Even when you get flooded the premix will hang around to help seal. Worth a try. (note: lets not get into the premix debate here, I'm sure there are at least 10 other threads that debate it).
I know you guys don't like to hear about band aid fixes for your new 30k car, but it seems you have the same problems earlier generations have had. I've had two FI rotaries and have never had this flooding problem--maybe cause this climate is very mild even in the winter.
Oh and DON'T use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to rebuild compression after flooding. This was a very old way of regaining compression after a flood. Use the 2-stroke oil instead, it will do the same job and was made to be burned in a combustion chamber, ATF was not. The ATF can destroy your cat, trust me they are very expensive and nothing good will come of it.
HTH,
Scott
#609
3,000 miles 2 trips to the dealer THIS WEEK no end in sight. My baby spends more time on a flat bed truck then in my garage. The service manager just shakes his head when I walk in and tells me to take comfort because he has four more in the shop just like it! For those of you that have not had this problem I am happy for you, extremely jealous, but happy for you. The update the dealer performed has not resolved the problem and Mazda wants to offer me free dealer services for the inconvenience, I want a car that starts Mazda! Has anyone gotten a better response from Mazda, a showing of Goodwill maybe?
#610
Originally Posted by Rex4Life
I know you guys don't like to hear about band aid fixes for your new 30k car, but it seems you have the same problems earlier generations have had.
- Get the M-Flash
- Follow Mazda instructions to avoid short trips
- If the car floods use the published "de-choke" procedure
in the Crank-No-Start TSB.
My sense is this ALMOST completely eliminates having to use a band-aid fix or getting towed to the dealer. The drop-off on flooding posts in this thread, when the M Flash came out, was amazing.
However, that is small consolation to people with a chronic problem like HOLLYFROG. For some reason there are just some RX-8s prone to flooding just like there are some RX-8s that get consistently terrible gas mileage (8-10 mpg). Wierd huh?
#611
Originally Posted by msrecant
Before using band-aid fixes one should:
- Get the M-Flash
- Follow Mazda instructions to avoid short trips
- If the car floods use the published "de-choke" procedure
in the Crank-No-Start TSB.
- Get the M-Flash
- Follow Mazda instructions to avoid short trips
- If the car floods use the published "de-choke" procedure
in the Crank-No-Start TSB.
Cool icon msrecant, and yea let's get NASA to do a due East flight to save hubble.
#612
Originally Posted by Rex4Life
I can't believe Mazda would say that.
#613
Flooding - CEL question
Is it normal to have the Check Engine Light come on after the engine gets flooded?
I was told by the dealer they wont replace the plugs with the new spec spark plugs. They did that earlier but not any more ... and also since I have the latest PCM flash I shouldn't have to replace the plugs.
I was told by the dealer they wont replace the plugs with the new spec spark plugs. They did that earlier but not any more ... and also since I have the latest PCM flash I shouldn't have to replace the plugs.
#615
Originally Posted by Maximus
Is it normal to have the Check Engine Light come on after the engine gets flooded?
I was told by the dealer they wont replace the plugs with the new spec spark plugs. They did that earlier but not any more ... and also since I have the latest PCM flash I shouldn't have to replace the plugs.
I was told by the dealer they wont replace the plugs with the new spec spark plugs. They did that earlier but not any more ... and also since I have the latest PCM flash I shouldn't have to replace the plugs.
It may not be "normal" It is not uncommon..
How long ago did the car flood and did you get the CEL code yet?
I've seen many post-flood cars with bad converters popping up lately. Zoom44 posted a pic in one thread of the front converter is pieces. The car had set a P0420 code.
#616
Thanks snap-on. Hmm.. I haven't taken my car in to the dealer yet so I've no idea about the code. The car was flooded a week ago but I haven't driven it a lot after that as I wanna have it checked first.
Bad catalytic converters after being flooded !!! that sucks. I hope mine didn't 'pop up' Is this something thats covered under warranty??
Bad catalytic converters after being flooded !!! that sucks. I hope mine didn't 'pop up' Is this something thats covered under warranty??
#617
Finally found the thread with the pics..
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...5&page=6&pp=15
And yes.. the entire issue should be covered under warranty
Please remember to post what the code was after the visit.
Thanks
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...5&page=6&pp=15
And yes.. the entire issue should be covered under warranty
Please remember to post what the code was after the visit.
Thanks
#618
It took a year, but my 8 flooded!!
or at least i think it did. I washed it on Saturday, so i pulled it out the garage into the drive way. i washed it and pulled it back in. then today, it wouldn't start. i turn the key and hear sounds like its trying to start, but the engine won't turn(thought it sounded like maybe the starter wasn't working right, but i'm guessing it's flooded). i'll be calling the dealer monday to tow it in and get a loaner. i've had it for a year and it has about 13000 miles on it. i wash about every week and its never done this before. this summer i got the flash that was supposed to prevent this.
#619
I have never had a flooding problem, but I always make sure the needle is in the operating range when I shut the engine off. I wonder when you say, "...the engine won't turn". Do you mean it won't turn over, or that it turns over, but won't fire? If it turns over, but won't fire, it is probably flooded. If it won't turn over, that is likely something else.
I got the reflash, too, but was told that it wouldn't totally rectify the flooding situation. I like to drive my 8, so I just make sure it is warm before turning the ignition off.
I got the reflash, too, but was told that it wouldn't totally rectify the flooding situation. I like to drive my 8, so I just make sure it is warm before turning the ignition off.
#620
the engine turns but doesn't fire... it goes right to the point of where it should start but just doesn't....
it's funny that after a year, 13000 miles and many car washes, it floods..... i kept reading about everyone else's flooding problems and thought maybe i was lucky..
it's funny that after a year, 13000 miles and many car washes, it floods..... i kept reading about everyone else's flooding problems and thought maybe i was lucky..
#621
Guest
Posts: n/a
I got an Drivers Guide Insert with my car that has a de-choking procedure...did you get this or try it? I have had mine for about a month and I havent had any problems yet, and its been cold at times here in Atlanta. I am worried about this problem too..but I havent been victim to it yet. All it says is:
1)Depress and hold accelerator pedal to floor and crank the engine for 7-8 seconds (This will clean out any unburnt fuel from the combustion chamber)
2)Release the ignition switch
3) Release the accel. pedal and start the engine. If the engine starts while performing Step 1, the engine will rev up. Immediately release the ignition key and remove your foot from the accel pedal.
*Do not keep holding the ignition switch in the start position for over 10 seconds if the engine doesnt start. This may result in a weakened or dead battery
*Avoid racing the engine or suddenly taking off right after starting the engine
*If the engine still fails to start following the de-chocking procedure, have your vehicle inspected by a Mazda dealer.
1)Depress and hold accelerator pedal to floor and crank the engine for 7-8 seconds (This will clean out any unburnt fuel from the combustion chamber)
2)Release the ignition switch
3) Release the accel. pedal and start the engine. If the engine starts while performing Step 1, the engine will rev up. Immediately release the ignition key and remove your foot from the accel pedal.
*Do not keep holding the ignition switch in the start position for over 10 seconds if the engine doesnt start. This may result in a weakened or dead battery
*Avoid racing the engine or suddenly taking off right after starting the engine
*If the engine still fails to start following the de-chocking procedure, have your vehicle inspected by a Mazda dealer.
#622
tried dechoking, couldn't get it to work...
waiting on tow right now... the service tech just told me that the flash i got this summer was stopped being used in Nov and mazda will be coimng out with a new one .... there were problems with the last one i got in the summer(great!).....
waiting on tow right now... the service tech just told me that the flash i got this summer was stopped being used in Nov and mazda will be coimng out with a new one .... there were problems with the last one i got in the summer(great!).....
#623
My 8 flooded yesterday as well. My dad moved my car the day before and didn't warm it up. I'd like to blame it on that. It's at the dealership right now. Let's hope this is the one and only time. It was in the 70's yesterday so I can't blame the cold. Tried the deflood procedure including the removal of the fuel pump fuse and still no go. I am M flashed. At least they gave me a mt miata.
#625
Lord, there must have been something going on this weekend to do in RX-8s.
Like kidcas, I washed out RX8 Friday--the weather warmed up into the 50's in OH--let it run for a few minutes and shut it off. Have done this same procedure atleast 4 times before with no problems.
Crank but no start; did the dechoking method to no avail. The car was reflashed in October.
At the dealer now--how strange.
Like kidcas, I washed out RX8 Friday--the weather warmed up into the 50's in OH--let it run for a few minutes and shut it off. Have done this same procedure atleast 4 times before with no problems.
Crank but no start; did the dechoking method to no avail. The car was reflashed in October.
At the dealer now--how strange.