View Poll Results: Have you flooded your Renesis?
YES
1,350
54.86%
NO
1,111
45.14%
Voters: 2461. You may not vote on this poll
Engine Flooding Info/Questions
#1751
putting the throttle pedal COMPLETELY down also stops fuel from being injected while cranking. no pulling the fuse necessary. cranking for about 8 seconds should clear any unburned fuel out of the engine then let go of the pedal and crank again to start- smoke like crazy etc. possibly destroy the CAT.
#1752
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
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EXPENSIVE FLOODING ISSUE Need Advice!
I have an 04 RX-8 that is in the shop right now needing massive repairs.
I had a short in my IGNITION COIL PACK and when trying to start the engine was flooded. So here is what the shop is charging me:
DIAGNOSTICS: Includes DEFLOODING, COMPRESSION TESTS, CLEAN INTAKE & CHANGE OIL & FILTERS
$190 Labor
$24 Parts
Sub Total: $214
REPLACE IGNITION COIL PACK-Shorted
$205.16 Parts
$142.50 Labor
Sub Total: $347.66
REPLACE PLUG WIRES
$88.34 Parts
REPLACE SPARK PLUGS
$81.96 Parts
$47.40 Labor
Sub Total: $217.70
Rotary TSB (When Engine is/has been Flooded): FLUSH ENGINE TO CLEAN APEX SEALS
$25.87 Parts
$380 Labor
Sub Total: $405.87
REPLACE BATTERY (Tests at 100 CCA)
$107 Parts
$24.95 Labor
Sub Total: 131.95
$100 Deductible from my extended warranty which is covering the following repairs:
REPLACE R&L ENGINE MOUNTS
REPLACE COOLANT TANK
($700 Warranty Work)
SHOP SUPPLIES: $39.90
TAX: $94.72
My Out-Of-Pocket Expense TOTAL
$1551.90
HELP!!!! Does this sound right?? Is there anything I can do without having done right away or can have mechanically inclined friends do cheaper??
Any advice would be so greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank You, Thank You for your time!!!!
I had a short in my IGNITION COIL PACK and when trying to start the engine was flooded. So here is what the shop is charging me:
DIAGNOSTICS: Includes DEFLOODING, COMPRESSION TESTS, CLEAN INTAKE & CHANGE OIL & FILTERS
$190 Labor
$24 Parts
Sub Total: $214
REPLACE IGNITION COIL PACK-Shorted
$205.16 Parts
$142.50 Labor
Sub Total: $347.66
REPLACE PLUG WIRES
$88.34 Parts
REPLACE SPARK PLUGS
$81.96 Parts
$47.40 Labor
Sub Total: $217.70
Rotary TSB (When Engine is/has been Flooded): FLUSH ENGINE TO CLEAN APEX SEALS
$25.87 Parts
$380 Labor
Sub Total: $405.87
REPLACE BATTERY (Tests at 100 CCA)
$107 Parts
$24.95 Labor
Sub Total: 131.95
$100 Deductible from my extended warranty which is covering the following repairs:
REPLACE R&L ENGINE MOUNTS
REPLACE COOLANT TANK
($700 Warranty Work)
SHOP SUPPLIES: $39.90
TAX: $94.72
My Out-Of-Pocket Expense TOTAL
$1551.90
HELP!!!! Does this sound right?? Is there anything I can do without having done right away or can have mechanically inclined friends do cheaper??
Any advice would be so greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank You, Thank You for your time!!!!
#1754
R James
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sydney Australia
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I've tried this with no success (accelerator pedal to the floor). On two occasions, we got it going after 45 mins by pulling the fuse and repeated starts with the started motor smoking.
#1757
Deathwatch
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Martinez California
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"OUCH! that sucks"
I have an 04 RX-8 that is in the shop right now needing massive repairs.
I had a short in my IGNITION COIL PACK and when trying to start the engine was flooded. So here is what the shop is charging me:
DIAGNOSTICS: Includes DEFLOODING, COMPRESSION TESTS, CLEAN INTAKE & CHANGE OIL & FILTERS
$190 Labor
$24 Parts
Sub Total: $214
REPLACE IGNITION COIL PACK-Shorted
$205.16 Parts
$142.50 Labor
Sub Total: $347.66
REPLACE PLUG WIRES
$88.34 Parts
REPLACE SPARK PLUGS
$81.96 Parts
$47.40 Labor
Sub Total: $217.70
Rotary TSB (When Engine is/has been Flooded): FLUSH ENGINE TO CLEAN APEX SEALS
$25.87 Parts
$380 Labor
Sub Total: $405.87
REPLACE BATTERY (Tests at 100 CCA)
$107 Parts
$24.95 Labor
Sub Total: 131.95
$100 Deductible from my extended warranty which is covering the following repairs:
REPLACE R&L ENGINE MOUNTS
REPLACE COOLANT TANK
($700 Warranty Work)
SHOP SUPPLIES: $39.90
TAX: $94.72
My Out-Of-Pocket Expense TOTAL
$1551.90
HELP!!!! Does this sound right?? Is there anything I can do without having done right away or can have mechanically inclined friends do cheaper??
Any advice would be so greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank You, Thank You for your time!!!!
I had a short in my IGNITION COIL PACK and when trying to start the engine was flooded. So here is what the shop is charging me:
DIAGNOSTICS: Includes DEFLOODING, COMPRESSION TESTS, CLEAN INTAKE & CHANGE OIL & FILTERS
$190 Labor
$24 Parts
Sub Total: $214
REPLACE IGNITION COIL PACK-Shorted
$205.16 Parts
$142.50 Labor
Sub Total: $347.66
REPLACE PLUG WIRES
$88.34 Parts
REPLACE SPARK PLUGS
$81.96 Parts
$47.40 Labor
Sub Total: $217.70
Rotary TSB (When Engine is/has been Flooded): FLUSH ENGINE TO CLEAN APEX SEALS
$25.87 Parts
$380 Labor
Sub Total: $405.87
REPLACE BATTERY (Tests at 100 CCA)
$107 Parts
$24.95 Labor
Sub Total: 131.95
$100 Deductible from my extended warranty which is covering the following repairs:
REPLACE R&L ENGINE MOUNTS
REPLACE COOLANT TANK
($700 Warranty Work)
SHOP SUPPLIES: $39.90
TAX: $94.72
My Out-Of-Pocket Expense TOTAL
$1551.90
HELP!!!! Does this sound right?? Is there anything I can do without having done right away or can have mechanically inclined friends do cheaper??
Any advice would be so greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank You, Thank You for your time!!!!
#1758
Deathwatch
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Martinez California
Posts: 147
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I got my car started btw, I bought 4 gauge jumper cables and cranked the heck out of my car while pressing the throttle, then I turned it over, and yup made a horrible sound along with the engine knocking. Mements later it ran fine. Save money by not going to the stealership. woo whoooo!!!!!
#1760
Registered Zoom Zoomer
iTrader: (2)
It's a rotary engine thing, specifically the improper sealing of the apex seals and thereby low compression upon flooding. Model year is not relevant.
The future 16X is expected to improve upon this innate 'condition' (I don't want to say flaw, since with minimal attention it can be avoided).
Any internal combustion engine can be flooded, but the rotary with its large sealing surfaces requiring add'l lubrication is especially prone.
The future 16X is expected to improve upon this innate 'condition' (I don't want to say flaw, since with minimal attention it can be avoided).
Any internal combustion engine can be flooded, but the rotary with its large sealing surfaces requiring add'l lubrication is especially prone.
#1761
Registered Noob
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island (Suffolk), NY
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It's a rotary engine thing, specifically the improper sealing of the apex seals and thereby low compression upon flooding. Model year is not relevant.
The future 16X is expected to improve upon this innate 'condition' (I don't want to say flaw, since with minimal attention it can be avoided).
Any internal combustion engine can be flooded, but the rotary with its large sealing surfaces requiring add'l lubrication is especially prone.
The future 16X is expected to improve upon this innate 'condition' (I don't want to say flaw, since with minimal attention it can be avoided).
Any internal combustion engine can be flooded, but the rotary with its large sealing surfaces requiring add'l lubrication is especially prone.
But I haven't flooded due to cold shut down in a long long time. Once or twice will learn you your lesson.
#1762
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
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I called Mazda customer service and they said Mazda will cover flushing the engine after flooding twice during the life of your RX-8. (Unfortunately mine has already been flushed twice and this makes 3!!)
#1763
R James
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sydney Australia
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So what are people doing now to avoid flooding - any progress in recent months. My dealer's latest advice was to just raise the engine to over 3,000 RPM before a cold stop to burn out the fuel. These days, I'm giving a couple of minutes idle, and hitting 6,000 RPM for about 5 sec.
#1764
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
RX-8's are still flooding?
do you guys have the upgrade starter / battery? Are you letting the car warm up a bit before shutting it down? (especially in the colder parts of the country / world)
do you guys have the upgrade starter / battery? Are you letting the car warm up a bit before shutting it down? (especially in the colder parts of the country / world)
#1765
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Palmdale, CA
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I bought my car in January 2005 and just flooded it for the first time last week @ 83,000 miles. It was a nasty flood too, and took me 2 days to get it started again. I refused to have it towed to the dealer since I'm out of warranty and I don't even want to know what they would have charged me. Hopefully it was just an isolated incident and isn't something that will happen more often now that my Renesis is pretty high on miles.
#1766
Registered Zoom Zoomer
iTrader: (2)
Same as always:
1. Don't shut down unless warmed.
2. If you must shut down before fully warmed, rev to 3k, hold for ten seconds, and shut off as the engine's spooling down (to burn off surplus fuel).
Simple.
1. Don't shut down unless warmed.
2. If you must shut down before fully warmed, rev to 3k, hold for ten seconds, and shut off as the engine's spooling down (to burn off surplus fuel).
Simple.
So what are people doing now to avoid flooding - any progress in recent months. My dealer's latest advice was to just raise the engine to over 3,000 RPM before a cold stop to burn out the fuel. These days, I'm giving a couple of minutes idle, and hitting 6,000 RPM for about 5 sec.
#1767
the more things change
yes i admit i flooded my car more then 4 times, cause i'm too lazy to let
it warm up when moving it. and yes i have a darn good battery.
but i've also had my car for almost 5 years..
deflooding is easy but you most be patient
it warm up when moving it. and yes i have a darn good battery.
but i've also had my car for almost 5 years..
deflooding is easy but you most be patient
#1768
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
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I bought my car in January 2005 and just flooded it for the first time last week @ 83,000 miles. It was a nasty flood too, and took me 2 days to get it started again. I refused to have it towed to the dealer since I'm out of warranty and I don't even want to know what they would have charged me. Hopefully it was just an isolated incident and isn't something that will happen more often now that my Renesis is pretty high on miles.
#1769
Mine's almost 3 years old and has never flooded. Turn the key and it fires right up, every time.
What am I doing wrong?!?
What am I doing wrong?!?
Last edited by New Yorker; 01-07-2009 at 12:29 PM.
#1770
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Location: Palmdale, CA
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What does the "flush" consist of? I already ran the Mazda Engine Cleaner through it after the flood (using the TSB directions). Is there anything else they do?
#1772
R James
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sydney Australia
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I suggest you follow the advice given here as insurance.
#1773
R James
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#1774
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Sometimes deflooding can be easy, but it definitely wasn't for me. I tried the pedal on the floor method immediately when I realized it was flooded, but it didn't help me at all. I had to take my spark plugs out, dry them, clean them, crank out the excess gas, inject some oil into the chambers, crank it some more, recharge the battery overnight because all the cranking drained it, put the plugs back in, crank it more with the pedal floored and everything reconnected, crank it more with foot off the pedal, and FINALLY it started with a huge cloud of white smoke.
And New Yorker, don't risk it. I had my 8 for almost 4 years without a single flood and I thought I was impervious to it too. My flood came after moving my car out of the garage and shutting off cold. Just follow the flood-prevention guidelines and you'll be good.
And New Yorker, don't risk it. I had my 8 for almost 4 years without a single flood and I thought I was impervious to it too. My flood came after moving my car out of the garage and shutting off cold. Just follow the flood-prevention guidelines and you'll be good.