skip gorman

I don't see by any means the afm had anything to do with the engine replacement problem.

How many miles on old engine? What kind of oil ( brand ) @ oil changes?

Driving style? What happened to require an engine change? Do you have an engine compression check print out?

ajoy

Thanks a lot for the prompt reply. In fact I had my engine rebuild with genuine Mazda rebuild kit and I just had the four ignition coils replaced. My concern is that I do not want to start replacing part by trial and error .
When I started the engine this week, I had to crank it a few times and it just started to flood. I am guessing that the fuel mixture is high, could it be the spark plugs?
I have ordered NGK spark plugs with the following ref:
RE7C -L (lead)
RE9B-T (trail)
This is recommended for city drive and also a new set of lead wires.

skip gorman

You're welcome, any way I can help. Honestly the only way you can tell exactly what's going on with a rotary engine is a engine compression check. Psi vs rpm. And that has to be done correctly. You will be replacing parts by trial and error without a comprehensive compression check. With that test done I can speak intelligently about your issue which I'd be happy to do.
Yeah you definitely don't want to throw darts at this problem. Where are you located?

rhjames

Sorry this is such an obvious question, but worth checking. When you had problem starting, had you had a very short running time when you last used it?

ronrutrx8

Had my first (and hopefully last!) flooding episode on my '05 manual. Bought new in 2005, the car has been flawless in starting and running, and averaging just over 21 mpg. Just rolled over 60,000 miles the other day. There have been several instances where one of us forgot to let it run a little while when moving to get to another car, but never with a problem on the next start. Two days ago, my son started it, drove it two blocks, and parked it. Next time it wouldn't start, and sounded a little odd, like compression was low. I run the battery down trying to get her going. Recharged, then about six hours later tried the procedure in the manual (full throttle, crank 10 sec., wait, no throttle, crank 10 sec., rinse, repeat). Did this off and on the next day, with no results. Then tried it again early this morning, no results. Son tried it a few hours later, and said it tried to catch. Then, as I was about to remove the wheel to get to the plugs, tried it one last time. It coughed and sputtered for a few seconds, then quit. Did the procedure again, and it did the same. The third time, instead of stopping cranking when it seemed to run, I just kept grinding the starter until the engine began to outrun the starter speed. At this time, she began to respond a little to throttle, still shaking and sounding awful. Also noticed it threw a code, I assume a misfire. Haven't had a chance to read it yet. Then I gradually gave it throttle until about 2,000 rpm it suddenly smoothed out. I raised it to 3,000 until the temp gauge began to rise, then gradually let off until it was purring at idle. Once at full operating temp we went for a spirited drive, hitting redline in 1,2, and 3 until common sense took over. Ran flawlessly, and has since, including a couple of trips and stops/starts. I guess the gist of this is that it can happen when you least expect it, regardless of past performance!

11/22: Code P0301, misfire detected; pending.

BOPOH

wow this thread is old

My situation - old weak starter, planning to buy new(er) one. Found at Autozone for $97 (2 kw)
My question - What is cranking power of new upgraded mazda starter?

So far the only thing i can go off by is size because autozone has there own part numbers that don't corespond with oem p/n.

Twisties

I have a quick question that I think I know the answer to but would just like clarification.

I recently bought an 04 8, bought it with what the previous owner believe to be a blown engine/ carbon locked, etc etc

A little background,
I pull the plugs, they were nasty, replaced them with NGK leading and trailing. The wire were the original wires, so I replaced them as well figuring it couldnt hurt, making sure to replace them in the proper order. The starter is the updated starter. Coils were replaced 10k ago according to previous owner.

I was in the process of deflooding as per the multiple instructions on this site. I had done it both ways, fuel pump fuse out, and the pedal to the floor technique. I had gotten it to start, but only briefly, when I would try to give it some gas to keep it running it would die on me. Or if i just let it go it would die. Now the question is;

Does this just mean that I should continue with the deflooding, ( remove plugs, crank, wait, crank, wait, etc) or am I missing something here?

Any help would be appreciated, I've been scouring the site for days now trying to find some thread pertaining to my problem. I did however notice that some of the deflooding threads did say your car will want to start and this means your close, but my car did start, or was this "want to start" really meaning it will rev up and start but die?

Thanks

edit* I think ronrutrx8 had the same problem, i will continue with the deflooding, but still if someone could let me know I'm on the right track here.

Thoroughscrub

So my engine is flooded... I started the process to deflood but when I went to take the spark plugs out, I could barely fit my arm down through the hole, let alone fit my socket wrench in the space allotted... I'd rather not spend the money to get it towed and have my shop do it.. I'm also a bit weary of disconnecting all the hoses that are in the way, I counted 9-10 different hoses and pipes pretty much blocking access. I bought my 8 and the manual was not in the car either.
Any ideas?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Turn the steering wheel completely to the right. Reach in behind the driver's front tire. They are literally right there.

Thoroughscrub

Awesome thank you so much! Will do.

se3p_s

hello
when my car is cold it start at first crank bt after driving, it takes time to start so what should i do now?

ronrutrx8

Per the insert in my manual, the upgraded starter is 2.0 kw.

ronrutrx8

If the car has known engine problems, it sounds as if there is compression problems. When mine finally started and ran on, it took a tiny amount of throttle; too much it would quit, too little it wouldn't idle. Was very rough for about 10 seconds or so, then smoothed out. When it was flooded and I was cranking so much, it sorta sounded like there was little compression, like it was just spinning and not resisting. Even then, it didn't take much to run the battery down. Maybe two to three attempts.

se3p_s

After Hit up my car takes 2 to 3 attemps to start bt in cold it start at first attempt..

FastFreddy61

I have once, that's when I joined this forum which has been very, very helpful with many more issue's this car has.

se3p_s

so what shud I will do now pls need suggestion..

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I can't figure out what you need help with.

So perhaps the best suggestion is to try explaining yourself better, with English, and we can go from there.

FastFreddy61

se3p s, my bad, I thought I was answering the poll question. But, have you changed the obvious parts in the last 30k or 40k miles. Plugs, coils and plug wires, cleaned the ESS,cleaned the MAF or had a compression check.
RIWWP, I think I can translate , Hit=heat , bt=but, so what shud I do now pls need suggestion= I need help.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I gathered that part.


But it's like those people at work that send me an email: "My computer doesn't work"

And expect me to know exactly what's wrong with all of the information contained within that line.


He needs to articulate the problem to actually get accurate help. If he doesn't care enough to do that, it makes it harder to care enough to help.

FastFreddy61

se3p s, If you take RIWWP's suggestion, it would be to your advantage, and maybe post your question in the forum of your native language. If thats not possible, just take your time and search, it may take you a while to find your answer, but every possible problem with the 8 has been covered multiple times.

se3p_s

I m srry for my English. actually i want to say that at cold start my 8 get start at first crank but after driving, I off the car after few min if i again give start it take 2 or 3 crank to start.

budwick

i recently flooded my RX8 moving it 15 ft into the garage one day preparing for a snow storm 3 days later i tried starting it and it wouldn't turn over. i tried the petal to the floor method. it didn't work. i guess the fuse method is next..

rhjames

Budwick - your giving a confusing message here. When you say "it wouldn't turn over", this indicates that when you try the starter, nothing happens - the engine (and starter motor) don't turn. Can you clarify, please.

If the engine turns over, but doesn't start, you have some options. - eg :
remove the fuse, and turn over a few times, replace and try again. Be prepared to try for half an hour, and get a very hot starter. You need a healthy battery.
Some have reported success with towing and a clutch start (manual only).
Remove plugs and inject some oil.

FastFreddy61

James, the US vernacular is a little different than we use in Oz. It is a little confusing sometimes.
Budwick, seeing as you flooded the engine and it wont start, each time you try to start it without doing the de flood procedure,the flooding will increase. Pull the plugs,clean them and dry them, try a hair dryer or flame thrower type cigarette lighter. Pull the room fuse by the kick panel,pull the connector from the ESS, it's by the front pulley on the lower right side when looking from the front of the motor,while the plugs are out,crank the motor over for about 10 seconds,do this a few times.Put everything back as it was,hit the key to start.

rhjames

Thanks for the clarification. Is it still the understanding that the problem isn't "flooding" in the conventional sense, but rather, the excess petrol has removed the oil seal, thereby losing compression? In this case, it's more a matter of stopping petrol injection, and re-establishing the seal, to achieve good compression.