Ive searched some of the posts here and got a little info on what might be wrong. but here is some history.

Purchased an 04 6speed 3 months ago about 80000 miles on odometer. Cat was gutted and engline light was on. replaced cat and downstream 02 sensor. No engine light. Did notice it takes a few extra seconds to start now, I assume this is bc there is now more back pressure but not sure. Car still ran fine. Replaced coils, wires and plugs per all these posts on why the cat fails. Now the car has a slight hesitation at 7000 ish rpms and then goes to normal up to redline. I then de carbed the engine per all the posts and it idles at 900 instead of 750 now (very happy with that) but still has hesitation. No oil consumption so I premix with a smokeless veriety I found locally. I also sprayed the mass air flow sensor with cleaner while I had intake off. My question is did I totally screw somthing up or is it just a bad stroke of luck that possibably my ssv or vdi valve causing my new issues. Why would my new coils plugs, wires cause this? Coils were purchsed from advanced auto parts. Did I get a bad coil? How to test this? Should I throw my old coils back on and try them. Old plugs were almost 80% burned off and filled with carbon. New plugs and wires are ngk. Any input? Please take it easy this is my first rotary I'm really trying to learn as I go.

 

It almost sounds maybe like coincidence lol I've had things like that happen before and it's frustrating. I would think you have some kind of intake valve problem though if it will still rev out to 9k. Could be pulling timing as well because of the knock sensor, Maybe something got left loose and is hitting against the rotor housings causing a false knock at that rpm.

 

First, if you have no oil consumption, you need to fix the oil injection system, before you kill that engine. There's a thread (https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...method-225321/) about cleaning the oil injection lines and oil injectors. Follow those instructions.

Next up, is to reset the ESS profile.
Turn the ignition to ON, but do not crank or start the car.
Press and release the brake pedal 20 times in as short a space of time as you can.
If you do it correctly, you will see the oil pressure gauge swing to the right, and then all the way back to the left.
When you see this, turn the ignition off, and then start the car.

That might do the trick.

BC.

 

I thought a nice heavy premix takes care of omp not working so I don't cook engine. And I did the decarb through the omp vac line off of intake. I did clear everything. Battery reset and the 20 pedal stomp. Where are these valves located everyone says that may be sticking.