Engine Number Three
07-16-2009, 02:27 PM
#127
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Okay guys, a friend/customer of mine works for Schaeffer oil. I met him through a referral and we have talked oil a little before about oil stuff but never about premixing specifically and I never knew that back in the 80's he autox'd a turbo FC. Well, let me tell you, he can talk to you all day about lubricants of various type (sounds bad I know).
Anyway, I had along discussion with him (of which most was above my head) about premixing and rotaries and and to make a long story short he told me that Mobile 1 and other commonly used synthetics "rupture" which causes metal to metal contact for a millisecond and he said this metal to metal contact is what damages the apex seals. He highly recommends (keep your comments to yourself NYCGPS) using synthetic and premixing in a rotary engine (says normal Dino oil is great for other applications and usually synthetic is not needed). Of course he works for the company so take it with a grain of salt but he says he has two products that would protect a rotary better than other commonly used retail brands. He says they sell mostly to large high use commercial buyers such as Good Year (they use their oils in their tire test vehicles).
Anyway, here are the two products he recommended that I use (tell me what you think):
5W-30
http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/9003.pdf
Synthetic 2-Stroke
http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/706.pdf
Anyway, I had along discussion with him (of which most was above my head) about premixing and rotaries and and to make a long story short he told me that Mobile 1 and other commonly used synthetics "rupture" which causes metal to metal contact for a millisecond and he said this metal to metal contact is what damages the apex seals. He highly recommends (keep your comments to yourself NYCGPS) using synthetic and premixing in a rotary engine (says normal Dino oil is great for other applications and usually synthetic is not needed). Of course he works for the company so take it with a grain of salt but he says he has two products that would protect a rotary better than other commonly used retail brands. He says they sell mostly to large high use commercial buyers such as Good Year (they use their oils in their tire test vehicles).
Anyway, here are the two products he recommended that I use (tell me what you think):
5W-30
http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/9003.pdf
Synthetic 2-Stroke
http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/706.pdf
07-16-2009, 02:58 PM
#128
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07-17-2009, 09:27 AM
#131
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^Honestly, with you living in San Antonio, I would recommend a much higher viscosity oil. Maybe stick with a 10W30/40 along with 2 stroke. The key is oil change intervals when breaking in a new motor. Use the stock fluid in the new motor for about 300 miles, change oil with whatever you want and then change it again a 1000 miles after that...then go back to your normal change rate.
I am a fan of Redline fluids so that's what I use, 10W30 half of the year and Race 50WT during the really hot months. I also have quite a bit of Redline Racing 2 stroke, 6-10oz depending on where and when I'm driving.
I am a fan of Redline fluids so that's what I use, 10W30 half of the year and Race 50WT during the really hot months. I also have quite a bit of Redline Racing 2 stroke, 6-10oz depending on where and when I'm driving.
07-17-2009, 10:01 AM
#132
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Yeah I have just read a lot about going with 15W oil due to the high detergent content and I just think it may be a little much. I am thinking maybe a good 10W40 dino and some synthetic stroke. I also think the SOHN adapter with 2 stroke is a good idea but man it seems like a pain in the ***.
07-21-2009, 09:38 AM
#133
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Shouldn't you be using 5w20?? I have 81,700 mi with same engine. Either that or the dealer is not doing something right. I do my own oil changes to make sure its being done right. I don't trust the stealership.
07-21-2009, 10:16 AM
#134
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My thinking has changed a bit. But my first motor ran the recommended weight and failed at 22k.
Check this out.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/good-technical-discussion-about-engine-oils-178739/
Check this out.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/good-technical-discussion-about-engine-oils-178739/
07-21-2009, 10:27 AM
#135
I still don't think your engine failures or the others who had it occur so early and so many changes (2-4 engines?) is because of the oil. IMO I suspect the apex seals which seems people initially were saying there were a lot of bad ones out there, and/or the schematic set up perhaps with the oil injection, spark, coils, whatever, you get the idea.
If I had more than 2 engines go oil would not be on my mind, it would be the whole set up outside of the engine to suspect something is screwed up to keep ruining the engines. That or I had really really bad luck getting fluke engines all the time, but still wouldn't be the oil.
If I had more than 2 engines go oil would not be on my mind, it would be the whole set up outside of the engine to suspect something is screwed up to keep ruining the engines. That or I had really really bad luck getting fluke engines all the time, but still wouldn't be the oil.
07-21-2009, 10:44 AM
#136
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Yeah I don't think it was soley the oil but I do think the design and volume of the OMP was not sufficient (which is why it was revised in the 09+).
But I also believe that anything we could do to protect our engines further at start-up would be great. In addition, actually making sure oil temps are up before hitting the road will go a long way as well. i will have the the BHR ignition, Mazmart water pump and thermostat, and then eventually the AP running on the new engine so we will see how long it lasts.
But I also believe that anything we could do to protect our engines further at start-up would be great. In addition, actually making sure oil temps are up before hitting the road will go a long way as well. i will have the the BHR ignition, Mazmart water pump and thermostat, and then eventually the AP running on the new engine so we will see how long it lasts.
07-21-2009, 10:43 PM
#138
Yeah I don't think it was soley the oil but I do think the design and volume of the OMP was not sufficient (which is why it was revised in the 09+).
But I also believe that anything we could do to protect our engines further at start-up would be great. In addition, actually making sure oil temps are up before hitting the road will go a long way as well. i will have the the BHR ignition, Mazmart water pump and thermostat, and then eventually the AP running on the new engine so we will see how long it lasts.
But I also believe that anything we could do to protect our engines further at start-up would be great. In addition, actually making sure oil temps are up before hitting the road will go a long way as well. i will have the the BHR ignition, Mazmart water pump and thermostat, and then eventually the AP running on the new engine so we will see how long it lasts.
its not New engine, its a Reman.
you could be lucky tho. you might get one directly from Hiroshima (some people are getting that, summer time is here a lot of engine went kabooom! reman plants cant keep up, help from Japan comes)
07-21-2009, 10:44 PM
#139
My thinking has changed a bit. But my first motor ran the recommended weight and failed at 22k.
Check this out.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=178739
Check this out.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=178739
I am convinced that is the key to the Renesis longevity
oh and synthetic oil ftw
)
07-22-2009, 02:35 AM
#142
Registered
I still swap the pump out a while ago as a preventative measures. 04-08 stock fuel pump SUCK !
07-22-2009, 10:00 AM
#146
cuz you know there are times that "you want to go fast
", u kick your clutch and floor the crap outa it to make a sharp turn then u found out your car jerks on you ... then yeah, its about time.Manual saids replace it every 100K , yeah right.
Mine was 30 something 40K (cant remember it now)
07-22-2009, 10:25 AM
#149
