Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

I will try and keep this simple,but I am having a few problems with my 8.

The car was at the dealer a week ago for a ticking noise that ended up being the SSV. The SSV was replaced and they cleaned the engine using the Zoom engine cleaner.

I mentioned to the service tech that I was having hot start problems, he said that replacing the SSV and using the engine cleaner should clear the problem, well it hasnt.

Car still hard starts when hot, clicks between 3-10 times before firing. I have been just leaving the car on for gas stops etc out of convenience in case it does not start.

They also wrote on the service slip that my battery is cranking at 391 amps. Is this a good number? I noticed new optima batteries crank at almost twice that. Do I need a new battery?

Also, I just ordered some Idemitsu premix and that should arrive sometime next week. I also plan on doing the BHR upgrade in the near future. Would the BHR solve my problem?

I was assured by the mazda tech that there was no need to do a compression test when I inquired about one. I tend to believe him, the engine does feel strong when started and doesnt have any other issues besides this. Thoughts? Thanks for any feedback. I really love my 8, but would like it to be reliable like any other vehicle should be..

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

Check what starter you have. You may not have the upgraded (search upgrade starter for part number).

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

^ok ill do that.. is the upgraded starter free through mazda?

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

No. If you need a new one, order from Mazmart, a vendor on these forums

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

According to the TSB I read, my VIN number is after the VIN numbers that normally have the older starter motors. Ill have to call the dealer and see if they have any info on whether there was an upgraded start motor installed. Do you think my battery has anything to do with my problems?

yiksing

nope, its most likely the starter or a dead engine.

VOODOO8

Have to say that the 391 amp output from the battery when cranking has me wondering. While batteries for the RX8 in the 35 group series might offer top end CCA values in the 750 amp max output range, the normal draw should be less than this. That said, I'm wondering if 391 is right or not. I just dug through some service manual stuff to check, but could only find starter output values when cranking and not battery draw values when cranking. If it helps, the manual says that amperage output for the starter when cranking should be 105 or less for an AT and 90 or less for an MT.

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

The paperwork from the service test says 391 is my actual cold cranking amps.

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

So I guess the next step is to see if I have the updated starter.. If I do.. then Im probably F-ed and need to get a compression test.. sound right?

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

yes.
and most likely. Have the mech check your battery, just in case

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

Ok I know it been a while but I have checked and I do have the upgrade starter motor. Since I started premixing the problem seems to have gotten a bit better, and I have no idea why.I do plan on looking into a new battery, the one I have now is definitely old and should be replaced. If that doesnt sort out my problem Ill get a compression test done. Thanks for everyone help.

Bladecutter

How old (years, numbers of miles on them) are your ignition coils?
Just the fact that you are thinking about installing the BHR coils means that you know that your current ones are getting old, and wearing out.

You can take your car to an Autozone, Advance Auto, or something similar, and have them test your battery for free. I think yours might be on its way out.

I would bet that those two things might perk your car back up.

Another thing that you can try, if you are bored, is just to swap your coils from the leading to the trailing positions. This actually worked on Saturday for Slvrmzdrx8 when he was having starting and running problems related to a misfire caused by one of his coils not firing.

We swapped his #3 coil (rear rotor leading coil) with the #2 coil (front rotor trailing coil) because when i tested his car with a timing light, the #3 coil wasn't firing at all.

Once they were swapped, his car was then firing up almost instantly, and idling perfectly. He's waiting for new coils to arrive to replace the questionable ones at this point, but he's able to drive his car again, and he says it starts up way better than it has the whole time he has owned it.

BC.

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for your comments Bladecutter. The coils, plugs, and wires all have less than 10K on them. I replaced them all in June of 2010 when I flooded the car for the first and only time. (I have since learned my lesson) The only reason I am looking into the BHR is because I dont want to have to replace them every 20K-25K miles. I see the BHR as a long term and superior solution. I think you are correct on my battery, I think it is on its way out as well.