My 2004 with 62k miles and only 7k on new motor runs perfectly. Everything is either new or perfect. I bought this car to race. It is awesome. Didn't want a trailer queen!!

The alternator belt was replaced by dealer with the new engine. Two days before had oil changed and full inspection at dealer...all okay then.

Part of the top of the belt delaminated while I was autocrossing yesterday pulling a couple 9k shifts. On start of second run right after shifting into second the car went silent and all the idiot lights lit up. Rolled to stop.

Everything worked but the starter or ignition and the Security Icon was steadily flashing. Owner's Manual says if flashing every second tow to dealer!! That is true according to the local Service Manager this morning and my failed efforts to fix the computer.

Part of the alternator belt chewed thru the three wires going to #1 coil pack. Cut green wire in half and shorted out the other two. Also blew fuse.

Nothing I could do would make the security reset and it completely disabled the start/run circuit like I didn't have the right key or was stealing the car.

So I will now pay more attention to the "new" belts when I check the oil. Perhaps a "better" solution is to figure out some way of protecting those wires. Either belt can take them out quickly if they even partially fail running higher rpms like we all do!!

This really sucks. Even tho' I replaced the blown fuse, sorted out the wires with the help of a surgeon (no kidding they race too), removed the battery cable to remove codes, tried locking and unlocking the car with the key, had my wife bring out a second key which didn't work either.

When the Owner's Manual says: "Take car to nearest Dealer" ... I guess they mean it.

AAA plus came out in an hour and 1/2. Flat bed to Dealer 30 miles away.

Dealer Repair

1. Replace belts and provide extra fuse that were still working but apparently crap.
2. Resolder wires to coil.
3. Reboot computer with Harry Potter Stick I guess?

I hope someone on this board knows how to reboot that Security System. That is a death knoll for people traveling where there are no dealers!! My searches didn't find anything pertinent about rebooting that system.

The good things were I was close to home unlike most of the guys racing!! It was a nice sunny day AND the Dealer did discover my original starter was on it's last legs which would have been yet another potential disaster.

All Hail AAA Plus with 100 mile towing to where you tell them.

***BTW I learned this year one has to buy separate Motorcycle Towing from them for $35/yr as they aren't covered with normal Plus policy. I ride an 81 bike and needed to know that.

Hope this saves someone a long walk in the desert or in a blizzard some day. It will certainly save you alot of money.

***I attached a quick temp fix with a piece of 1" hose and a nylon tie I had laying around. Later I will use the bolt for the idler pulley to mount a permanent metal angle to protect shown wires from BOTH belts.

***Permanent fix is with 2x3" Angle Zmax from Lowe's framing dept for $1.22 + tax. Engine lifting bracket all ready has 9/32" hole in it. Drill out one existing nail hole 1/4". Bolt together with 1/4"x 1/2" bolt and washers. Bend angle as shown to clear coils. Fits perfectly. Protects from both belts. Very strong. Long bolts for bracket hold on water pump so you might get a couple drips while the bolts are off. This can be installed easily the next time you have your air intake snorkel off without removing the bracket!!

 

hey the same thing happened to me the other day. i rev it to 9k and when i was about to shift and it torn my belt and made a very loud noise. it also chewed up my wires. was ur drive belt on ur alternator torn also? did they say what caused that to happen? what was the cost on the repair? is there a recall for that? thanks!

 

If you didn't get the "flashing security" icon every second you can fix it yourself by separating/reconnecting the shorted/broken wires and replacing the fuse.

The fuse that blew on mine was the 15amp "Engine" one.

It cost me $450 for the dealer to repair the three coil wires, new fuse, two new drive belts and fix the ECU (1.5 hrs labor) which was frozen in "stolen car" mode.

Only the top rubber layer of 1/2 of my alternator belt separated. It was only 2 years old!!

Sorry not a recall and not covered under warrantee. "Belts are wear items."

 

I would be interested to see your final mod Doug to protect Ignition (etc) from a shredding belt(s)..
Any Other pics??

 

ok. i replaced both of my belts yesterday so that will prob lower the cost and my car is in stolen mode and its been towed to the dealer today. did they said why the wires got tangled with the drive belt? is it because of the bad design by them?

 

Definately a bad design leaving the coil and wires exposed only 3 inches from the spinning belt. My original quicky hose/strap is still there. Also put a length of plastic hose tied over wires to protect further. No rush with a brand new belt(s). I will eventually put a steel angle in there either mounted under the engine lifting slot or using the bolt on the tensioner. Either will work.

Guess it makes sense that the alternator pulley being the smallest pinches the belt into the tightest arc and making it fail there first with max stretch on the outside layer. Also no surprise the belt fails at max rpm which we have to do weekly to keep the engine clean. Mazda said my belts were fine 2 days before it failed

All Mazda had to do was move the coils about an inch back!! They had no idea why it put the computer in "lock down"??? Other than the obvious short or back surge?

Here is the permanent fix for $1.22 + tax. Lowe's framing dept 2x3" angle Zmax. Drill out one nail hole to match existing 9/32" hole in engine pulling bracket. 1/4x1/2"lg bolt with washers. Bend to fit as shown. If you wait until the next time you pull the airtube for any reason you can mount this without removing the bracket

 

no obvious or back surge. everything is pretty much the same as you. thanks for all the info!

 

preventive maintenance is the key ...

if the belt was replaced by dealer just recently, I would bitch at them saying they probably overtighten it and causing it to fail at the wrong time.

 

I had the same problem, going on the highway it broke, i change the strap and reconnect the wire. It was working good, and then all of a sudden no power in the radio, no ambient light, NO IMMOBILIZER light at all, no OB2 power, no windows power. But my healight work, when i push the break i see the stop light. My remote is not working either. When i put the key on ( like if i wanted to start the car ) i see the needle going up and down. I try changing the battery and the connector ( they were in bad shape ) but nothing ! Then i try to redo the connection of the little wire and it doesnt do a thing. I check all fuse and relay they are all good.... So i am desesperate . And something odd happen, out of desesperation i close the hood, and the light came on inside ! everything was back to normal, i try to start and then the power dissapear again. I don`t know at all what to do. How can i repair the 3 little wire going to coil #1 I try to solder them, twist them ,.. everything the power is not coming back .