AMDguy

Hi All,
I know there are a million threads on this, but I have done a bunch of reading and have not found anyone whose issue is as severe as mine... I recently pulled my engine to attempt a rebuild, and got it all stripped to the short block. I attempted to break this bolt (front e-shaft bolt) lose while the engine was in the car by putting it in 6th, and using a really long breaker bar (6 feet or so), but had no luck. I attributed this to the awkward angle of trying to get leverage while leaning over the car... it turns out that was not the case; this thing really does not want to budge.

what has NOT worked:

1. a 6 foot (or so) breaker bar while the engine was in the car
2. a 7-8 foot breaker bar with me on the end (I'm 150 lbs)
3. attacking it with my dad's 1400 lb-ft impact (I went at it for a good 25 or 30 minutes)
4. heating it until it is glowing red then attacking it with my dad's 1400 lb-ft impact
5. a 1800 lb-ft Milwaukee impact at our local mechanic
6. a Snap-On impact rated at 1900 lb-ft at our local mechanic
7. heating it very hot (not quite red) then using the 1900 lb-ft impact at our local mechanic


what has worked:

nothing



any ideas? I found an impact on Amazon that claims to do 3500 lb-ft, but that is $250... I am debating between getting this thing, or just having my engine professionally rebuilt. Any thoughts/help greatly appreciated.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Slightly undersized left hand drill bit and right angle drill.

AMDguy

I think I understand what you are waying, but do you care to elaborate?

furansu

Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey?

You have the flywheel clamped so that the engine cannot rotate, correct?

Should come out with the previously mentioned heat and big-*** breaker bar or impact gun. Be sure to replace the thermo-pellet when you do finally get the bastard free.

Where are you located?

AMDguy

yup, double checked that first one

the flywheel was held down by a big piece of steel clamped between the clutch pressure plate and the flywheel, which was allowed to rest against the ground when using the breaker bar. I had a my dad hold down the flywheel while using the impacts... in any case, the flywheel (and whole rotating assembly) was restrained for the duration of my attempts.

I am going to try again with the big breaker bar (except this time it is going to be a really huge one, 10' minium), and a few friends sitting on the motor, so maybe that will work. If not, then I guess I might have to drill it out (risk of damaging the e-shaft, but I think with the bolt being this tight, that risk is already there).

I have not heard about the e-shaft thermal bypass thing, I will look into that...

furansu

Just making sure. Sounds like you are doing the right stuff, just having a bugger of a time with it.

This is the thermal-pellet -- it sits under the e-shaft bolt.


You can get delete kits for them, I personally like retaining them for street cars. Always replace it during rebuilds (using new OEM only).

You're looking at about 200lbs/ft torque spec with a copper washer that may be adding some stiction to the equation. The factory uses loctite as well that should break down with sufficient heat, which I'd say you likely achieved already.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I've never done that job, but I've had plenty of success removing broken bolts in heads and manifolds.
A left hand drill bit just under thread size will often bite into the bolt and back it out like an EZ Out.
I think because it both hollows out and heats the bolt relieving the tension in it.
The tricky part is keeping it centered and straight.
Much easier if you have room to get a good center punch strike on it and put some weight behind the drill.
I have a good reversible 90° drill.
One of those tools I hardly ever use, but when I need it, it's invaluable.

AMDguy

I think I will keep the thermal pellet, but more research is in store...

I am seriously considering drilling it out, but that is kinda a last resort, as the head of the bolt (the part you put the socket over) is still totally intact (not stripped or rounded-over), so I am first going to see if I can just apply really, really absurd amounts of force to it and hope for the best. If not, then oh well, I guess drilling is my only option... I also have a giant drill press, so I think if I were to drill it out I would literally put the entire engine of the drill press (stood on flywheel) and drill it that way.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Well to be honest a new Renesis e-shaft is so cheap (under $300) you might just take a cutting wheel and whack it off like that if it comes down to it.

AMDguy

that is my thought, especially because it is so tight, there is a chance that the threads may already be damaged, so I may already need a new e-shaft, but I will try to save a buck where I can...