Cliffjumper126

Yeah the SSV moves freely...I guess that load reading could've been a fluke. It would make sense that it would be OL because of load, but there's an issue with that reasoning. If I'm at 5200 in second at a steady speed, load has been registering in the 30s, and it's still OL at that point...

EDIT: What do you make of there not being a reading for the AFR and it saying "not ready" under the monitor readiness?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Yup I agree. Wish we could get a data log.
It's hard doing it this way ... if was 60 or this or that, acceleration vs cruise it's all important stuff and can be identified in a proper log.

OL at that RPM and Calc load makes sense

As far as no AFR mmmmm
- Poor ODBII reader
- ECU
- Broken AFR Sensor

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

AFR not ready is an emissions check. It has to go through a completed drive cycle or two after being reset to pass the ready test.

You need to get an AFR reading or even a NB o2 reading at 5200 cruising. It would tell the rest of the story. A full log would be nice. If you have air and spark but no power it has to be fuel.

Hmm.... I guess it could be a failing fuel pump. Leaning out bad at high power, while bringing up trims at low power. Anyone want to give a second opinion?

Cliffjumper126

Here's how I'm feeling, and I'd like to know you opinion on this stuff too:

I don't think it's any of my intake valves because they move freely, and if It was any of the actuators then I would be getting a code for it.

It could be a vacuum leak...but even though the MAF value is low, it seems like the leak would be showing in the STFT.

I'm feeling it's most likely a faulty AFR. Mostly because I'm not getting values for it. My OBDII reader shows the AFR value on our honda, so I don't think it's the reader. I feel like the fact that it says the AFR as "not ready" and the fact that there's no reading for it indicates a faulty sensor.

One strange thing that has happened is the scanner has trouble connecting to the ECU sometimes, and when this happens I have to hold the plug on the OBD port really tightly to get it to connect. Sometimes when the engine is running with the scanner plugged in, the traction light comes on. Shortly after, the DSC light starts blinking and the tach bounces to zero and back to normal a few times. It stops doing it usually pretty quickly and the traction light just remains on until I cycle the ignition.

Cliffjumper126

I had the dealer do a fuel pressure test and it was fine..plus it seems like the power wouldn't come back at 7k if it was the pump.

Cliffjumper126

Oh and another thing, it doesn't experience the power loss as badly and revs smoother under half throttle vs full throttle

wcs

iTrader: (2)

That's just crazy .. never seen anything like that before.

Now Team would disagree to change something without a proper diagnosis but I have to agree with Dannobre on replacing the AFR sensor.
You've also said that it doesn't look like a big job and something you can easily handle.

@Harlan .. the car is old enough to have past the Mazda recommended replacement date for the fuel pump IIRC


I think I would just wait a few more drive cycles like Harlan has recommended and see if you can get an AFR reading.

Then look at changing out the AFR sensor ... you've ordered one anyway, right?

Cliffjumper126

Yeah I can definitely handle the job. I never got around to ordering it because I wanted to be sure but it doesn't look like that's going to happen lol

What's this mazda recommended replacement thing you speak of?
I've probably gone through 8-10 drive cycles since I first started trying to get an AFR reading and it still isn't there so I don't think it'll show up. Could there be a problem with the ECU?

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Hmm. guess it is the AFR. Ive got an old one that I replaced for fuel economy. It didn't help but I left the new one installed anyway. Send me a PM if you want it.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

After looking at your data I would also say get the AFR. The intake valves don't seem to be the issue, just as they don't seem to be an issue in mine, and a vacuum leak would normally cause a lean condition for a number of reasons, which doesn't seem to be the case.

I'm fairly certain that the power loss is causing the lower MAF readings, not the other way around. Mine seems to lose power and the MAF and calc load follow suit, if only by slightly.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Ah nothing forget it ... I think I was just confused about the scheduled maintenance for the fuel filter with is in the fuel pump.
So to replace the fuel filter you really need to replace the pump.

I think it was 100k miles

Cliffjumper126

Thanks Harlan but I think I would be better off with a new one.

I'm ordering one now so I guess you'll find out if it helps Rofl

Ah wcs I see..I've already cleaned the sock so I got that goin for me haha

Cliffjumper126

Here's the sensor I ordered, just in case anyone here or any future readers need an AFR (aka upstream 02). Cheapest place I could find.

Cliffjumper126

Got the new sensor today and put it in tonight. Damn the old one was hard to get out! It seems to be running better, but I really need to drive it more to know. I'm also going to replace the plugs because they are super black from running rich. I'll update once I can tell if it's fixed

Cliffjumper126

On another note, anybody know what this is for? I found it when I was hooking the new sensor up...
It's behind the intake manifold but I couldn't find anything it could plug into back there, but its gotta be for something. All I could find are the three connectors in a vertical row but they're all connected.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I can't tell what it is <shrug>

If it were me .. I would be taking off the UIM to find out

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

That looks to me like where the front O2 sensor should be plugged in...

wcs

iTrader: (2)

LOL omg wouldn't that be a laugh

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

If it's clipped to the top of the bell housing that is in fact the O2 sensor connection. It's a bitch to get to but you can definitely do it without pulling the UIM(that's even more of a pain).

Now the real question is where did he plug in his O2 sensor? 0.o

Cliffjumper126

It's not the 02 (I'm not THAT stupid :p ), that's a different one and has a larger connector. The one in the picture has a smaller connector than the 02 and runs out of the wiring "harness" coming out from under the intake, the "harness"/group of wires also contains the wires leading to those three connectors in a vertical row on the back of the intake

wcs

iTrader: (2)

That really made me LOL
(I'm laughing with you Cliffjumper)

I don't find getting the UIM off is hard ... mmmm interesting.

I know my big fat hands have a bitch of a time squeezing in there.

Cliffjumper126

Haha watch this connector belong to a fuel injector or something and be the root of my problem. I wouldn't put it past the previous owner to have forgotten to connect it when he put the motor in... I would be pissed. What are the those three connectors I mentioned for?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

You mean this?
That's the Vacuum accumulator for the SSV and VDI and the Secondary Air Pump

https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...-video-184663/

https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...valves-174009/

Maybe .. can't recall what they look like.
I should remember damn it, but it looks darn close.

Rorschach

iTrader: (3)

how many rotards does it take to identify a connector

I'm curious to see what's connected to that in my engine bay, I'll take a look after work today and see whats there.

Cliffjumper126

I'm reading about how to take the UIM off and I found this picture of what I was talking about, I'm wondering if the connector that's loose on my car (in my other pic) is the grey one underneath the three in this picture