Ground Kit Recomendations
#1
LikeThunda
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Ground Kit Recomendations
has anyone done this before??? not sure how to start, but i know there are kits...
im wondering if this will help with my idle?
im wondering if this will help with my idle?
#2
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http://www.flex-innovations.com/rx8.htm
I bought the FLEX INNOVATIONS grounding kit. To tell you the truth i have not noticed that big of a difference. Idle is alittle more stable. I figure a couple more grounding points could not hurt.
MazdaManiac has some more info posted already. Post # 59
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ing+kit&page=3
I bought the FLEX INNOVATIONS grounding kit. To tell you the truth i have not noticed that big of a difference. Idle is alittle more stable. I figure a couple more grounding points could not hurt.
MazdaManiac has some more info posted already. Post # 59
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ing+kit&page=3
My $5 e-bay grounding kit arrived today. I unpackaged and installed it in about 45 minutes, which includes time to take resistance measurements and pictures.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/01.jpg)
The kit includes 7 wires pre-crimped and heat shrink wrapped to lugs. Also included is a new battery ground terminal, a distribution block (with a fake MazdaSpeed logo on it!), a set of 10mm nut/bolt combinations, a 2-1 lug and some wire ties.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/02.jpg)
First I attached the new terminal (after cleaning the post).
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/03.jpg)
Then I attached the distribution block and the two existing ground wires via the 2-1.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/05.jpg)
I then measured the resistance to the chassis ground buy the washer bottle to the negative terminal as a baseline. The amount of resistance to ground from this point in the chassis is considerable at 4.7 ohms.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/06.jpg)
I then attached the first wire to this point on the chassis to the distribution block.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/07.jpg)
Then I re-measured the resistance from the ground point right next to the one just connected (to get the actual change in grounding at this point rather than what is being carried directly by the wire). The resistance had dropped to .4 ohm! 1/10 the original resistance.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/08.jpg)
Then I measured he resistance on the other since of the chassis. It was down to .5 ohm. So, I connected the second wire to the area near the strut tower on that side.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/09.jpg)
The resistance dropped to .4 ohm.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/10.jpg)
Next was the alternator. This dropped the resistance across the accesible parts of the front of the engine block from .4 ohm to .2 ohm.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/alt.jpg)
Last, I hooked up a wire to the plate to which the coils are mounted. I used the open mounting point where the part of OEM wiring harness used to be. I think this carried the wire for the VFAD with a plastic clip.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/11.jpg)
The resistance dropped from .5 ohm to .3 ohm.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/12.jpg)
The final result was this red cobweb of wires. With the battery cover back in place, it is pretty neat looking.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/final.jpg)
Results?
As far as I can tell, the idle is more stable - it now sits squarely at 820 RPM without the usual 50 RPM wander. Hitting my fan on switch (I had wired a switch that allows me to turn the fans on full at any time - you would be surprised how stingy the PCM is with the fans in the OEM configuration. Here in the desert, they really need to be on all of the time), I noted NO drop in RPM. The load used to take the RPM down a notch as the alternator (generator) fought to keep up.
Whether any of this produces any more power I can't say. However, I would imagine that is things are easier for the generator, there should be less loss. Also, making it easier for the coils to fire can't hurt.
I'd post a DIY, but since you can't put pictures in the DIY section, why bother.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/01.jpg)
The kit includes 7 wires pre-crimped and heat shrink wrapped to lugs. Also included is a new battery ground terminal, a distribution block (with a fake MazdaSpeed logo on it!), a set of 10mm nut/bolt combinations, a 2-1 lug and some wire ties.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/02.jpg)
First I attached the new terminal (after cleaning the post).
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/03.jpg)
Then I attached the distribution block and the two existing ground wires via the 2-1.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/05.jpg)
I then measured the resistance to the chassis ground buy the washer bottle to the negative terminal as a baseline. The amount of resistance to ground from this point in the chassis is considerable at 4.7 ohms.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/06.jpg)
I then attached the first wire to this point on the chassis to the distribution block.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/07.jpg)
Then I re-measured the resistance from the ground point right next to the one just connected (to get the actual change in grounding at this point rather than what is being carried directly by the wire). The resistance had dropped to .4 ohm! 1/10 the original resistance.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/08.jpg)
Then I measured he resistance on the other since of the chassis. It was down to .5 ohm. So, I connected the second wire to the area near the strut tower on that side.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/09.jpg)
The resistance dropped to .4 ohm.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/10.jpg)
Next was the alternator. This dropped the resistance across the accesible parts of the front of the engine block from .4 ohm to .2 ohm.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/alt.jpg)
Last, I hooked up a wire to the plate to which the coils are mounted. I used the open mounting point where the part of OEM wiring harness used to be. I think this carried the wire for the VFAD with a plastic clip.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/11.jpg)
The resistance dropped from .5 ohm to .3 ohm.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/12.jpg)
The final result was this red cobweb of wires. With the battery cover back in place, it is pretty neat looking.
![](http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/ground/final.jpg)
Results?
As far as I can tell, the idle is more stable - it now sits squarely at 820 RPM without the usual 50 RPM wander. Hitting my fan on switch (I had wired a switch that allows me to turn the fans on full at any time - you would be surprised how stingy the PCM is with the fans in the OEM configuration. Here in the desert, they really need to be on all of the time), I noted NO drop in RPM. The load used to take the RPM down a notch as the alternator (generator) fought to keep up.
Whether any of this produces any more power I can't say. However, I would imagine that is things are easier for the generator, there should be less loss. Also, making it easier for the coils to fire can't hurt.
I'd post a DIY, but since you can't put pictures in the DIY section, why bother.
The following 2 users liked this post by invasion08:
RAZOR404 (10-07-2023),
sharingan 19 (07-21-2024)
#4
Jake
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Has anyone tried these? Highly considering picking them up soon.
http://www.maxground.com/ground.htm
http://www.maxground.com/ground.htm
#5
Got Boost?
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Houston, TX
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Has anyone tried these? Highly considering picking them up soon.
http://www.maxground.com/ground.htm
http://www.maxground.com/ground.htm
I'll post my results after I install it tonight.
#7
I understand that this is a very old thread but I am bumping it anyway.
Is it possible to run a wire from the positive on the alternator to the positive on the battery on this car? It seems that may bypass some replays so I figured I would ask those who are more educated on the matter.
Is it possible to run a wire from the positive on the alternator to the positive on the battery on this car? It seems that may bypass some replays so I figured I would ask those who are more educated on the matter.
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