workshop manual says this:
Possible causes of 507:
Vacuum hoses improper connection
Drive by wire malfunction
iat sensor malfunction
ect sensor malfunction
app sensor malfunction
ecentric shaft sensor malfunction
pcm malfunction

now guys is it your opinion, that when i know that i overboosted, actually had smoke come out and then the problem happens several minutes later that any of those reasons may be valid. I mean, does the ecu ever through cels that signify possible apex seals, or does it just through generic symptoms?

I did have the boost controller hose blow off the nipple so I guess it is possible that it blew a vacuum hose off somewhere else too.

Whats the best way to check vacuum leaks besides spraying water everywhere, is that the best?

thanks again guys

 

good thinking, but used the stock gaskets on the airpump cause of all the trouble that surronded the greddy one. i will check the hoses, it work for a week after i re-installed the turbo in which i had the air pump out while installing but maybe just maybe a hose has come loose in there somewhere, have to check that.

 

i would clear the cel. reset the kam. then give it a nice gentle drive.

see what pops up. thinkin hose.

beers

 

I think that CEL is a standard CEL thrown as a result of the turbo. So is your car running fine now? Is there still a problem with it?

The way I check for vacuum leaks is by spraying some kind of flammable liquid around all vacuum lines, and listen for a change in the idel. Carb cleaner will work, or the stuff that you spray into an engine to help get it to start works too.

 

i have never had that cel before, so that seems funny, not sure if it is a symptom or a cause though.

flammable liquid, is that dangerous cause of the heat?

 

Well, by flammable I don't mean go squirting gasoline in your engine or anything, but spraying some carb cleaner or use some propane. Just go over all the vacuum lines and you'll hear a change in idle if theres a leak.

 

okay guys, think i have the final verdict . . . took the leading spark plug out on the rear rotor, took the egi fuse out and turned the engine over . . psh, psh, psh. Did the same on the front rotor . . . PSST, PSST, PSST. Much louder and stonger. So my verdict is the rear rotor has a bad apex seal now, sound right to you gouys?

Now, I have seen gasket/seal kits for the renesis as much as $1000. But I have read posts on here where reptutable knowledgable members are advising that if you go into the engine to make sure the same o-rings and gaskets go exactly where they came from cause they are seated in those spots. So that says, that sometimes you just take the engine apart and replace what is wrong . . a $14 apex seal? Is that right? If so I am rebuilding it for sure.

Someone please add some light to this if you can.

Thanks

Chris

 

There is a Mazda engine manual,part no 9999-95-E13B-MSP which shows which parts MUST
be replaced when you rebuild.The minimum seals etc required are likely to cost ~$400,but if you have any damage to the rotor housing and/or rotor the cost will escalate rapidly.Previous pictures of blown engines on the site indicate this damage is very likely.Sorry to be the bearer of sad tidings!

 

Mazmart has the cheapest options. Check with them.

 

yea got a quote from them, looking over the workshop manual to see how to take the engine out and will decide from there.

 

Hey, I have been working on getting the engine out becsuse I was 100% sure the apex seal was bad on the rear rotor but when I got the stock cat out, the actual honeycomb started oming out the end of the cat!, looked inside, its all loose in there and broken u

What does a cat do when it goes bad? jumpy idle? not sure what to think about the rear rotor sounding so weak compared to the front but maybe this cat was the problem.

whatdaya think?

 

i would definatly put a test pipe on it and drive before pulling engine.


beers

 

Hopefully it was just a clogged cat.

If not, take it to the dealership and pay the $90 to have a compression test done. Then if that's bad, take the engine apart and rebuild.

 

ok guys, put the high flow cat on tonight, car cranks right up perfectly, idles at 3000, warms up drops to 2000 then 1500 and there is the erratic idle again.

Disconnect the emanage and idle on stock ecu, same issue. spray some brake cleaner around the vacuum hoses to look for leaks on the hoses i could get to, no difference. Put it back on.

pressed the gas and the car sounds great, smooth as can be, no wierd noises and climbs up rpms fine.

The puffs i heard from the rear rotor were the same all three just did not sound as loud as the ones from the front.

Any other suggestions? I am stumped and really don't want to have to hassle with mazda and limp the car there, wait days for them to get to the compression check, the dealership here is horrible.

I am just having lots of trouble convincing myself that the apex seal is gone and the car cranks and revs so smooth.

What do you guys think? I miss my nikki!

thanks

chris

 

I would definitely say no way you blew an apex seal. If you did I've been told by more than 1 rotary expert that you would know if you blew a seal. The car would not run even close to normal.

 

Can you describe the issues a little more. What exactly does it do? When does it happen? Is it anytime the engine is at operating temp or only sometimes? How does the car drive? How bad is the idle? Is the idle the only thing wrong?

 

thank you so much for your help.

When i crank her, she is perfectly cold, the cold idle is at around 3000 rpm, once the engine temps raise some, she starts the 2000 to 1500 idle, back and forth, quickly, ya know.

The cold 3000 rpm idle is smooth, not erratic just fast. the warm idle is erratic one.

Have not drove the car since it started but on the way home the last day after the boost spike issue, she drove fine. When i moved her from the front yard to the back garage, she drove fine except I had to keep her above 2000 rpms or she would surge with the erratic idle.

I am with you in really doubting that it is apex seal related. She starts right up, revs smooth as ever, just has a very erratic idle. I am actually scared at this point to let her idle much at all cause i do not want to damage the turbo from surge.

Any of this help any?

Thanks

Chris

 

oh one last thing, she warmed up tonight, dropped to 2000 rpms. stayed there fairly smooth. I lightly touched the gas and then she reved up, then dropped to 1500 and started the crazy idle. But not until the gas was touched.

 

got a pm from swoop, he mention that he had read about reseting idle. here is another thought, maybe a long shot i dunno. Car went into limp mode for a couple seconds after the boost spike when I pulled off the road, had forgot that. think that has anything to do with it. Ya know the traction control light flashed and the car had little or no power then.

 

I decided to post a couple videos for you guys to watch to see if it spurs any ideas from you guys. I am stumped, think i will clean the maf but don't really think that is it, maybe a blown intake gasket?

video from inside of tach: Video 1 (shows the 8 idling at 1500-2000 rpm and then me reving the engine to show that it revs fine and then goes back to idle at 1500-2000, the jumping idle is the 8 doing that, not me!)

video of engine running: Video 2 (just a movie of the actual engine, to show what it sounds like and the jumpiness of the idle)
*I had to right click and save target as, download to desktop and then click on it to play them, i could not get them to open in the browser, you might can though.

Let me know what you guys think.

chris

 

did you get the link i sent you last night????

check pms

beers

 

yea got that, gonna check that out tonight too, thanks for your help you have been great! maybe all of us can get this straight!

 

I haven't read the entire thread, and I'm sure you've already done this, but have you checked the coils?

 

After checking out your videos, I've never seen anything like that. It almost seems like the car thinks you are revving it, when you aren't. A normal (if there is such a thing) erratic idle would just sort of sputter, yours seems very controlled. Perhaps there is something wrong with the emanage, or one of the connections has gone bad.

 

not the emanage, disconnected it to test that idea last night, made no difference at all.

Looked at the coils, not melted anywhere but how else do I check I coils? Definetly could be that.