rkostolni

You can measure the resistance of the coils, I believe it should be around 3k ohms. Another way is to pull a spark plug touch the threads to a ground and crank the engine with the fuel cut, make sure the fuel is cut though. Look for bluish sparks, helps if lights are dim.

Also, make sure you don't have any plug wires reversed.

zoomzoom_8

does any resistance tester work?

rkostolni

I just watched the video. Check your coils still, but I would guess that's a vacuum leak. I bet you blew a line off somewhere when you overboosted.

Just use any DMM for testing the coils. But that will only tell you if your coils are good, checking for spark will tell you that everything in your ignition system is okay.

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yea, i am thinking that maybe I should do a vacuum test, looked for a blown hose but have not seen one except the boost gauge one. did notice something else though, it will idle at 2000 if you crank it and NOT touch the gas at all, once the gas is touched the idle goes crazy like in the video.

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just did the vacuum test, took the vacuum hose loose from upper intake manifold to the purge solenoid and connect intake manifold side to vacuum gauge. When I crank the car, it idles at the 2000 rpm, steady .. . vacuum is at the correct range according to the workshop manual. Blimp the throttle, vacuum falls below the range (approx 381 mm HG), engine starts surging again, vacuum bounces up and down with the revs as in the video. gonna look all around the throttle body, seems connected to the throttle, must be a leak somewhere. What do you guys think please help! haha.

zoomzoom_8

is there a way to pressurize without the engine running to see if I can hear something hissing, kinda like when you do a boost leak test? I could swear I hear a hiss very faint bt cant find it cause the engine is too loud.

zoomzoom_8

guys i may have found the culprit but wanted to run it by you guys first. The coupling that attaches the air intake piping to the turbo was busted. I have read that the rx7 guys would get funky idles when their turbo air intakes cracked. Do you guys agree that this is probably the problem with nikki? Thanks, this has been an adventure

adrian-1

Could be it. It's after your MAF sensor so the engine is getting more air than it thinks it's getting.
Replace it and see what happens.

rkostolni

If that doesn't fix it, get a boost leak checker from boostpro.net, or someone similar. You can also make one yourself. They really come in handy and allow you to pressurize the entire intake tract, any leaks will become very obvious.

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thinking it is still the problem, having to wait on a new coupling, but was thinking, when i start it, like tonight, did not touch the throttle at all. it slowly kicked itself down to as low as 1400. Stayed there, but once I lightly touched the throttle, it started its up and down idle. Does that make any sense with our current theory of a vacuum leak and/or leak at the air intake?

Also noticed this: At the back of the engine, middle way behind the plastic upper intake manifold, I am feeling some cool air. that makes me feel like maybe i blew the intake gasket. Sound feasible or is there something back there that might be making air?

Moostafa29

How is it coming?

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its coming, haha, got the coupling in to fix the leak in the air intake on the turbo. Immeditely burnt through that one so the leak was back before i was even out of the garage! So now, after talking with bullseyepower (the guys that designed the turbo) they are sending me a new housing with a 2 3/4 inch intake on it instead of a three inch so the coupling should not touch the manifold at all thus hopefully solve the problem unless it is something else, haha. This stuff gets on my nerves but that is what happens when you start going custom on a car I guess, takes a while to work the bugs out. Just sucks that i have to wait on the new housing and then take the turbo out again and then put it back in. I could do that in my sleep now

zoomzoom_8

okay, update on this:

Got the new housing which would solve the intake leak, put it all back together.

test drive, idled high around 1700, just like before. Sometimes a steady 1700, sometimes the up and down idle and sometimes 1200 but never 750 as it should be. Drives okay but it does miss as you can feel the car slightly jerk under driving speeds. Car feels strong.

But when I punched the gas, lots of white grayish smoke came out in a big poof. Car sticks me to the back of the seat and off we go. No smoke then just when I punched it.

went back home and let it idle. sometimes up and down idle, sometimes high idle but once again never like it should have been.

But did notice some things, when it missed, egts flucated. when it idle, it would idle high, pop in the exhaust (small backfire), blow out white grayish smoke, then no smoke, idle high and do it all over again.

Rev the engine in neutral? smoke comes out from underneath.

I think it is spitting oil out somewhere, maybe too much oil in the combustion area, which would make it idle higher, backfire and blow smoke.

No cels as of yet since I reset the ecu after getting it back together and driving about 30 miles.

Now, are there oil seals that I could have blown when I boost spiked? Could the oil metering pump be faulty?

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bump

zoomzoom_8

Someone out there knows the answers, please please help me. the mazda dealership here is totally lost so no need to take it to them, all they would do is fuss about the turbo and i don't know anyone that is good with the rotary. i am lost!!!

zoomzoom_8

hoping one of you gurus out there will take a look here is what scansysler just said about the cels and the parameters:

p 0507 -idle air control system RPM higher than expected
u0121 error to ABS HU/CM (huh?)
u0167- keyless entry error (doesn't apply, modded tt, get it once in a while)
po113 IAT sensor circuit higher input
po103 MAF sensor circuit higher input
po172 System too Rich


Available Parameters logged at 12/25/2005 9:47:57 PM
FuelSystemStatus: Open Loop - Drive
LoadCalculated: 48.6 %
CoolantTemp: 179.6 °F
ShortTermFuelTrim1: 0 %
LongTermFuelTrim1: 0 %
EngineRPM: 1873 rpm
VehicleSpeed: 0 mph
TimingAdvance: -5 ° from TDC
IntakeAirTemp: 73 °F
MAF: 18.71 g/S
ThrottleAbsolute: 14.9 %
AirStatus: Off
O2_2_1: 0 V
TimeSinceStart: 87 sec
DistanceSinceMIL: 11 miles
EvapPct: 0 %
FuelLevel: 51.8 %
WarmUpsSinceDTCClear: 5
DistanceSinceDTClear: 50 miles
Barometer: 29.53 inches Hg
WideRangeO2_1: 17.45759244 Air:Fuel
CatalystTemp_1_1: 1269.9 °F
Voltage: 14.219 V
LoadAbsolute: 39.2156862745098 %
AFRTarget: 14.64 Air:Fuel
ThrottleRelative: 2 %
ThrottleAbsolute_B: 32.2 %
AcceleratorPedal_D: 31.8 %
AcceleratorPedal_E: 20.4 %
ThrottlePct: 2 %


i am thinking maybe the maf and iat sensor has something to do with it, gotta read up i guess.

i need a guru!!!

swoope

iTrader: (5)

did we not go throught the reset idle deal????? might be it now?????

i can find the thread again.

beers

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yea, it was not the problem, i thought for a second that the maf and iat temp cel was key but then i remembered that i unplugged the maf while it was running last night to see if it made any difference, it did, the engine died thus the maf/iat cel

so now reading on the idle air higher procedure

swoope

iTrader: (5)

not sure,

but i dont think these make sence if the idle is correct.

ThrottleRelative: 2 %
ThrottleAbsolute_B: 32.2 %
AcceleratorPedal_D: 31.8 %
AcceleratorPedal_E: 20.4 %
ThrottlePct: 2 %

beers

zoomzoom_8

swoope, every now and then i see grayish smoke when the idle is screwy, do you think it could be the oil seals or the apex, i read somewhere in the shop manual that it would do blueish smoke, my smoke is probably not dark enough though, i dunno

it cranks and runs fine, just misses every now and then while driving it.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

blue is oil, white is water, black is rich.

so idle is ok????? i know another know issue is it takes several drive cycles for everything to settle down. i would do some drive cycles and see what happens.

i just dont think these match with idle.

ThrottleAbsolute_B: 32.2 %
AcceleratorPedal_D: 31.8 %
AcceleratorPedal_E: 20.4 %

go drive it for a while, no boost. and see how it does....

how many miles have you put on it?????

i can go check the above values if needed.

beers

swoope

iTrader: (5)

duh,
also if you have all that smoke, and any was dark / oil. good chance you may have fouled a plug or more. remove and check!!!


beers

swoope

iTrader: (5)

ok,
i just went out and look at my scanalizer at idle and your stuff looks normal. mine is lower, but it is idleing at not 1800 as yours.....

if i could figure out how to copy my info area i would.

beers

swoope

iTrader: (5)

more info.
i emailed myself from my car... silly...

Available Parameters logged at 12/26/2005 12:18:15 AM
MonitorStatus: Check Engine Light (MIL) is On
FuelSystemStatus: Closed Loop
LoadCalculated: 34.9 %
CoolantTemp: 183.2 °F
ShortTermFuelTrim1: -1.6 %
LongTermFuelTrim1: 0.8 %
EngineRPM: 809 rpm
VehicleSpeed: 0.0 mph
TimingAdvance: -4.5 degrees
IntakeAirTemp: 99 °F
MAF: 4.52 g/S
ThrottleAbsolute: 13 %
AirStatus: Off
O2_2_1: 0.06 V
TimeSinceStart: 151 sec
DistanceSinceMIL: 633 miles
EvapPct: 26.3 %
FuelLevel: 21.6 %
WarmUpsSinceDTCClear: 21
DistanceSinceDTClear: 651 miles
Barometer: 29.53 inches Hg
WideRangeO2_1: 1.032 Lambda
CatalystTemp_1_1: 904.1 °F
Voltage: 14.004 V
LoadAbsolute: 21.57 %
AFRTarget: 1.023 Lambda
ThrottleRelative: 2.0 %
ThrottleAbsolute_B: 31 %
AcceleratorPedal_D: 31.8 %
AcceleratorPedal_E: 20.8 %
ThrottlePct: 3.1 %


this is the norm and na to boot. check your pm i have a theory.

beer

swoope

iTrader: (5)

WideRangeO2_1: 17.45759244 Air:Fuel

this is silly lean!!!!!!!!!!!!!

check pm

beers