All,

I have searched RX-8.Com and all through the internet over the past 3 days but have yet to find an posts with recommendations for my specific problem.

The "hard start" TSB seems only focused on cars that were started and then not allowed to warm up.

I have read the "hard start" sticky 5 times and do not see my specific issue or even generalities that address my issue. So with that said...

I have the chance to buy a 2004 RX-8 very cheaply because of a starting issue. Because I do not yet own the car and only have quick access to it, I do not have a ton of info on it and need to determine if I am willing to risk buying it and not being able to fix the issue.

The owner says the engine was replaced. I have the VIN and will verify that today. The car itself has 110K miles on it.

Here is the issue:

Hot or Cold, the car takes 3 to 8 minutes of cranking to get it started. Once started, it emits some smoke, then runs fine.

Owner says he replaced the coil packs and took the car to a dealer for trouble shooting. Mazda "could not find the problem".

Thanks for any help you can give.

I have owned first-gen RX-7's and love the rotary. Unfortunately my expertise is with traditional GM motors and old school muscle cars.

 

The same exact thing applies to that car as it does every other RX-8.

First thing you want is a compression test done.
No exceptions. Engines come from the rebuilding factory bad, too.
And just because they say the engine was replaced, doesn't mean that it was done correctly.

Next up, is you want the records of when the ignition coils, spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Those need to be in tip top shape for proper ignition to take place. If they don't have a record of them being replaced in the past 2 years/30k miles, you might as well budget for a new set, right from now. Under $200 at Advance Auto Parts, and even less if you use discount codes.

Following that, you want an updated starter in the car.
The older the starter, the slower it spins, which doesn't build the compression enough during cranking. You can replace it with one from a newer year model, if its a manual.

Next up is the current condition of the catalytic convertor.
When the ignition system is bad for a long time on these cars, it will kill the convertor. You should pay someone to put the car on a lift, and physically remove the convertor to see if its damaged inside. If it is, you want to have the seller replace it out of their pocket, not yours.

After that, the only thing left is the fuel pump, but that usually gives problems during a hot restart, and while driving, but you never know.

BC.

 

Thank You Bladecutter. If the compression test was already done (I will ask) and is good, are the odds fairly good that this is something "fixable" vice replacing the motor?

I will likely have to pull the trigger on this buy before I can take it to a dealer for a test...

It is sort of a "pig in the poke"and the seller already has a buyer at the price he is offering to me for...

Thanks again BC for the assist and recommendations.

 

Mazda made tons of these cars, unless you're willing to take the gamble that the engine is bad, its not hard to find another one.

the Rx8 is unique in that if there is anything wrong with the engine, you just replace it. its totally different than a piston engine, where you have to do valve adjustments and timing belts and head gaskets and stuff. Mazda is weird with the engines, as there is no retail price, but it should be less than $2500 with the install gasket set.

the converter, if you need an emissions test in your area, make the seller do it. the converters will fail a tailpipe test long before it will turn on a check engine light, or be visibly damaged.

i do agree if the coils/wires/plugs are original, or over 30k you should just change em, the plugs are due, the wires are probably also, if they haven't been, and so are the coils.

if it passes a compression test, and you replace the ignition system and it STILL has starting problems, you are kind of on your own.

i would start by cleaning the Crank position sensor, and resetting the NVRAM, this won't help, but it will make you feel better. next you can look for vacuum leaks, the MAF can also be checked, but you need a scanner. then maybe check the fuel pressure.

 

Thanks Folks. Advice is much appreciated!