High guys,

I really need your help before spending any more money.

My 8's DSC light is permanently on.
I tried everything I know until now, like:

a. Main switch on and fast pressing the brake pedal, until the needle in oil pressure gauge moves, RESULT: nothing

b. Main switch on, turn the steering wheel to the end left and to the end right, switched off and after that start the engine, RESULT: nothing.

c. Checked for any fuse unplugged, everything OK.

d. I've driven the car for more than 1000miles and the DSC light is still on.

e. I plugged a diagnosis PC into OBD2, erased all the shown errors, RESULT: nothing.

BUT, there is another issue, the battery light is also permanently ON.
The voltage indication through ScanGauge is 13,2 maybe 13,4 Volts.
I know the alternator doesn't charge the battery well.

The technician seemed pretty sure and suggested that as soon as we replace the alternator with a new one and we get a correct voltage like 14,5V, the battery light will turn off, and all the DSC systems will be back on line (which means the DSC light will turn off, I guess).

Has any of you came across with the same DSC malefaction..??
Any suggestions?
Do you think the problem with DSC starts because of the insufficient alternator...???

Please advise..!!!!
Thank you in advance.

 

Did you read the thread?

Check the third brake light wiring. It's certainly possible your battery situation is playing into this, and it's the bigger problem so see if fixing that fixes the DSC light.

Is it just the DSC light or ABS also?

 

Ok, I checked and replaced the 3d stop light bulb which hadn't been working a lot time ago and before the DSC problem.

Did again the turning steering wheel reset.

Still nothing

I didn't read the whole thread just a couple of pages.

So guys, the DSC light is still on, should I replace the alternator to get correct voltage, what do you think...??

Thank you

 

And a last thing I didn't mention.
the car was on the Dyno before the DSC problem starts.
The battery was disconnected a lot of times during the Dyno session and without moving the car for 2 days in a row...

After that, the alternator malfunction started and the DSC light remained lit.

​​​​​​Any ideas please??

 

Hello again.
I have an update about the DSC light which is still on.
Also the ABS light turned on a week ago...

I replaced the alternator with a brand new one 200Amps.
After a week I also replaced the battery with a brand new one...

I still have low voltage 13.2-13.3V regardless engine's rpms...

I think the problem with ABS and DSC lights comes from the low voltage...

Any ideas...???
I'm getting tired with these stupid stuff...
Thank you in advance...!!!

 

Hi everyone,

I own a 2004 Mazda Rx8. My ABS and DSC lights just came on the other day. I tried resetting according to the beginning of the post, and then disconnected the negative battery cable and reconnected it because the first didn't work. Is the problem typically with the light only. Or is it a malfunction with both systems? Is it still drivable?

Thanks,

Chad

 

I was having these issues, and in my case it was the broken third light cable paired with the blown 15 amp fuse. Solved thanks to the contributors on this thread!

Also, in parallel, my rear brakes weren't working. When I went to replace the brake switch I was amazed to discover that the grommet on the brake pedal wasn't even touching the switch... and there's no adjustment. What the ? I've temporarily taped a small block in there of sufficient thickness to get the brakes to register properly. I have no idea how they ever worked!

 

I have an automatic 06 rx8 its only automatic because my girl can't drive manual so im trying to launch and burn out but i cant i took the dsc fuse out in both locations inaide of the car qnd under the hood and i still cant launch it just stays at2500 rpmerpmee. I need help

 

Not sure on that one. It's in the fuse panel under the hood. I used needle nose pliers and took it out. Worked for me. Thanks guys.

 

My problem that im having is everytime i start to drive about a mile or 2. My traction light comes on and stays on. Until i restart car. But no other lights illuminate besides tire pressure sensor light. Due to not having any sensors installed. Abs & Dsc lights are off. Its only a solid traction control light.

I have tried all the the steps...
3rd bake light is good
All cabin lights good
Reset steering angle sensor
Checked fuses
Tires all match good and even tread.
Tire pressure Even

Any help would gladly be appreciated TIA

 

Hello My Fellow Rotary Lovers!

This is my first post ever! But i've been stalking the forums from the shadows since the day before i got my first 8 nearly 4 years ago, and there is soo much i don't know about her. But I digress..

I have a 2005 6speed MT. She has a little over 64,700 miles on her. I am fairly certain ive searched as best i could yet i can't find the solution i am looking for.

Issue: Noise from ABS motor.
Bandaid: Disconnect battery

My issue started with a flat. I put her spare tire on to get her home (which is smaller in diameter and width). Nearly 36 hours later (she hasnt moved since the flat) i notice my ABS motor under the hood is making a very audible slightly high pitch "bwerrrrrrrrr" sound (i disconnect neg battery lead and it returns when battery lead is reattached). Battery is also dejuiced enough for lights to function(and the abs motor) but not enough to get a single turn out of her rotors. The dash lights all appear normal, as in all symbols light up when key is in 'on' position. (<--Maybe i missed something here) Your thoughts?

I don't have an dcs/tcs button?
I will check fuses in the morning!
I hope i posted this in the right place?
Thanks in Advance!!!

P.S. battery is charging with neg terminal detached (to prevent abs noise). I havnt had time to do the 15 point check yet. At least one break light works (red reflection off trees).
I am anxious...

Update: Engine won't start. ABS unit still makes noise. 15amp engine fuse keeps blowing when cranking engine. (5th one down on the upper right) all other fuses intact. Minus 15amp cigar lighter on cabin fuse box. (Went out long ago).

Will find appropriate thread.

 

Yeah so turns out after checking all my fuses, it was just the 3rd brake light bulb.
Who woulda thunk. Thanks OP.
Great troubleshooting thread

 

Probably has to do with putting that spare on at some point might of messed with the abs on the hub (surprised you have a spare). I’d definitely make your own thread and have people chime in to tell you to look it up 😀

 

. Another thread revival to say thanks.
Found my issue.
A bit of 9 and 14. Third brake light Bulb was blackened and thought this was it. Swapped out and still no luck. Threw a meter on it and no voltage when brake pressed. Released the wiring harness that runs to boot lid (Australian for trunk) and pulled on the power wire and it came straight out. So it was open circuit. Break appears to have been where the wiring does a 180 when the boot is closed. Soldered in a new section and took it for a drive and cleared dash lights. Must have been going off and on for a while. DSC and ABS lights would very intermittently come on when I gave it a bit of stick but come good after a shut-down and restart.
Cheers,
Ray

 

I have an appointment at the dealer on Saturday, but perhaps I can get some feedback before I go. All fuses are fine, all brake lights are working, but I notice the warning lights do not come on until the second time I hit the brakes after starting the car. Is the brake switch the likely culprit? Or could it be some other electrical gremlin related to the battery and alternator? Thanks!

 

It was in fact the brake switch, for anyone curious. $378 and change at the dealer. Wish I'd done it myself, but oh well, I'm busy enough.

 

In a middle of a spirited drive, my ABS/Traction lights turned on (and remain on). Codes pulled are:

C1144 - Wheel Speed Sensor RR Tone Ring Tooth Missing Fault (768 - ABS)
C1168 - Speed Wheel Sensor RR Coherency Fault (768 - ABS)

Please advise what I should do. Try to inspect/repair/replace sensor or take to shop? Thanks.

 

You could try unbolting the sensor end from the wheel hub, pull it out, and clean it; might have gunk built up on the sensor tip end disrupting the signal. You can also spin the wheel by hand to inspect the tooth ring looking for the same issue on it; maybe grease or a piece of road tar etc. got on it. Other than checking the rest of the sensor wire lead for any obvious damage I’m not sure what else to try other than replacing it; no guarantee that will fix it if it’s a fault in the abs module etc.

 

Is the rear abs sensor removable and "tooth" wheel turnable/inspectable without taking more than the wheel off? If there's no obvious issue, would it be worth it to just buy a sensor for $50 or so and give that a shot, since I'm assuming a ABS/computer would be expensive?

Also some other context: The ABS/Traction lights stay on immediately at ignition, turn off very briefly for couple secs after maybe 30sec and then stay on.

I checked rear brake lights etc, and all are fine so I'm guessing not the 3rd brake light or switch related issue from 1st post.

 

It will be a lot easier to take the wheel off.
.