don't give them a dime if your first post is reflective of what they want to do.

 

labor rates(as you can see) are ridiculous at the dealer alot of that u can do yourself if ur mechanically inclined

 

So I'm a dumba$$ and I let the dealership fix everything they said was wrong for half the price of their original quote and now my check coolant light is on again. If they replaced the coolant tank and the radiator a month and a half ago (as well as the spark plugs, wires, ignition coil pack etc) I shouldn't be having that sort of issue right? Do you think they screwed up or do you think it is a new problem? I hate being car-illiterate and I'm stressing! Help!

 

if you're sure your coolant is at the right level and you hate that coolant red light flashing in front of you, you can just unplug the sensor from the bottle. no light ever. but just make sure that theres no leak and everything is good.

 

Check to make sure your fluid isn't low, and then ignore the light. Unplug the sensor if it drives you nuts, or take it to a different dealer who will replace it again under warranty.

The float that measures fluid level in the overflow tank goes bad. It's a known issue. (I've got it too)

 

ITs funny that they charge you labor replacing wires when it should be included in the replacing plugs and coils. it takes like what, 5 minutes the most if you're just replacing the wires?(if the car is already up, which takes no longer than 10 minutes anyway)

Coil "packs" = about 120 shipped.
4 spark plugs brand new = about 85 shipped
New spark plugs wires = maybe 60 something bux shipped.
Labor to do them = no more than 1 hour.

They basically trying to charge you 3 times the labor hour than what it should be.

Wow, I think they're talking about the z00m z00m engine cleaner, rofl.

Yes, techincally speaking you do need at least an hour or 2 something to this. but out of those 2 hours, 100 minutes of them are just "sit around and wait" time for the cleaner to work. so hmm lol

You can do this yourself, you dont even need much tools, if you have a pair of long and skinny hands you can actually follow my DIY and do it yourself (you need 2 person, 1 to hold and spray the cleaner and one to crank, look up my DIY)

and the cleaner is like what? 25 -30 bux shipped ? shitz. lol

I can't believe they're trying to charge you ANY labor on this ! Wow. a 10 mm socket, 5 minutes of time. Hmm. LOL and 107 for parts? stock battery suck #)$*#@*$. 100 CCA? are you sure thats the rating ? cuz I think stock battery is rated at 600 something CCA. Anyway, you can get a battery with better CCA and longer warranty for less than 107 bux.

Its even funnIER that they have the ***** to call u later and ask if u wanna do everything for 950. rofl.

 

How do I know if it's just the sensor going bad without taking it back to them (they're total a-holes and I hate dealing with them if I don't have to)

 

simple.

if the coolant level is right, no leaking whatsoever, but the light is still on, the sensor is broken.

You can just unplug it and no more lights , ever ! Just check your coolant every 5-10 fillups and u'll be fine.

they're a-holes I know (from the labor rate they trying to bill you), but they should at least cover their work, right? Its been couple of months I know. but bring it back just to **** them off, cuz I believe Mazda original parts installed at Mazda dealer will be covered for 12,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. (after they replace the bottle, they have to re flush the coolant again. and it will be covered under the parts warranty)

 

fill it up. if it stays off then you're ok.

if it comes on a gain right away and the coolant is still where you filled it too then its the sensor.

 

Thanks guys
xo

 

If you ar mechanically inclined and have experience, do the work yourself.

If not then pay the dealer.

 

MegDecker,

If your the coolant level sensor is bad, your dealer should cover it under warranty since it has not been a year yet since they installed it. I would not follow the advice of unplugging the sensor or ignoring it, because my cooling system failed and the car was loosing coolant ...... you want to know that when it starts leaking, not when your car is overheating.

I was checking my coolant level every 3rd fill-up, but that did not help. Unfortunately, my coolant level sensor had gone bad, so I found out about the leak when my car was steaming coolant. The coolant level in built into the reservoir which costs almost $200 discounted ......... I think you've paid them enough already.

 

Thanks, I called Daytona Mazda and they were giving me such an attitude I figured I'd bring my car to another mechanic to take a look at it first so Mazda couldn't bs me and low and behold they never tightened my radiator hose clamp (?) so it has been leaking coolant ever since they replaced the radiator. This mechanic was awesome and didn't charge me a dime to tighten it and refill to proper levels. I don't ever want to bring my car back to the Auto Mall not even to fix things they screwed up! So that brings me to yesterday...I was driving to Orlando and my oil light came on. I went to the Wal-Mart for a mechanic to check out for me (only place I could find in an unfamiliar area) and he said that Mazda didn't replace a gasket around the plug so my car has been leaking oil as well since they had done an oil change.
So yeah, I'm pissed and have decided that I am going to take an auto repair class if I can find one maybe at the local community college so I don't get screwed ever again for being ignorant about my car!!!

 

Is there a website that shows you how to Install Engine Coils?

 

i'd call MNAO if this was true.. Dealers like this deserve the worst

the DIYs on this forum + search button > your local community college class
you'll find just about every problem has already been discussed to death, with many solutions having a simple DIY to follow, even if you aren't very mechanically inclined.

 

gasket around the plug cost less than a buck. "some" times you can reuse the gasket for 1-2 more times depends on how "tight" the last mechanic do to your plug (over tighten the plug will shorten the gasket life, cuz its crushable aluminum)

but a good dealership would replace the gasket with oil change, it doesnt cost much anyway and it reduces the risk of leaking oil.

I know I replace my gasket every oil change.

you dont need to take any class for oil change. you just need a jack, 2 jack stand, a reversible ratchet, I think 13mm socket, a big pan to catch old oil, 2 empty gallon milk jar to carry the oil for recycling, and new plug gasket which cost less than a buck each. total will cost you no more than 50 bux, and u can do life time oil changes by ur self. for the ratchet and socket, buy HIGHER quality stuff, like Crasftman or Duralast or even better get Snap-On (expensive). never go cheap on tools, u will thank yourself for life.

 

Why, does your car run like this:

DIY: How to replace ignition coils

 

The mechanic that said said Mazda left off the gasket around the plug also said I had a leak around the oil pan and needed to replace my gasket there.

I took it to a local mechanic today to replace and he said it looks like the leak is coming from above that area (the block on the passenger side??) and they want over $400 to pressure wash the area to fully discern where the oil is coming from and replace the oil pan gasket if that's the problem.

Any ideas???

I left there and brought it straight to the Auto Mall and they wanted me to leave my car there overnight which of course I didn't do because last time I did that they had it for almost three months...

 

Hey Meg, hopefully you get emails when someone replies to your thread. I've been working on cars for about 36 years now. Professionally off and on. Go to your local Autozone/PepBoys/WalMart/O'Reilly/etc and buy a Chilton's or Haynes Motor Manual for your car. Or, you can search for themm online. You shouldn't have to pay anything more than about $30 for the book and it will tell you how to do just about everything from changing a tire to rebuilding the motor. I recommend them to ALL of my customers, as well as when I write about automotive issues for a number of web sites. I'm not a big rotary fan, but feel free to email me if you have questions or need help. Use my nickname here @roadrunner.com or yahoo.

 

Yes. Walmart/Autozone/etc. Engine degreaser. Take it COLD to a car wash place. Do it yourself. Put your coilpack under plastic and liberally spray the engine down with the degreaser. Let it set for 5 minutes. Then use one cycle on the washer with just high pressure water. You'll need to give it about 5 to 10 minutes to dry. Engine's clean. You can also go to a parts store and buy a dye to add to the oil. Then buy an ultraviolet flashlight or a blacklight. Run the engine for about an hour. You'll see a yellowish glow where the leak is.

 

Buy a Chilton's or Haynes.