Hot start failure, long crank times
#26
Charles Bundy
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If you had a manual transmission, I would have suggested push or pull starting the car. I don't know how you can do that with automatic. In neutral, I think But the longer you sit and crank the car the closer you are to damaging both your starter and possibly your catalytic converter. You may be missing something...
The only and first time I severely flooded my car is when I moved it less than 10 feet on a street parking during winter of 2010. The first 30 minutes dried out my battery the last 15 minutes is with a back-up battery.
But, here's what I did without and with the back-up battery:
1. Removed #22 20A fuel pump fuse.
2. Disconnected the air pump which seems to use and drains the battery quite a bit.
3. Crank 10 seconds, rest for 15. Continue this for a minute.
5. Replace the fuel pump fuse back in.
8. Crank engine for 10 seconds, if engine starts, keep a light foot on the accelerator to avoid stalling, note that you will have moisture so the excessive white smoke is normal!
9. Plug the air pump back in then take it for nice long drive!
This is what you will experience: Initial rough start with misfire(blinking to solid CEL). And you will notice where I have to lightly keep the RPM up as it drop during misfire(blinking CEL).
The only and first time I severely flooded my car is when I moved it less than 10 feet on a street parking during winter of 2010. The first 30 minutes dried out my battery the last 15 minutes is with a back-up battery.
But, here's what I did without and with the back-up battery:
1. Removed #22 20A fuel pump fuse.
2. Disconnected the air pump which seems to use and drains the battery quite a bit.
3. Crank 10 seconds, rest for 15. Continue this for a minute.
5. Replace the fuel pump fuse back in.
8. Crank engine for 10 seconds, if engine starts, keep a light foot on the accelerator to avoid stalling, note that you will have moisture so the excessive white smoke is normal!
9. Plug the air pump back in then take it for nice long drive!
This is what you will experience: Initial rough start with misfire(blinking to solid CEL). And you will notice where I have to lightly keep the RPM up as it drop during misfire(blinking CEL).
#29
RAWR!
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Are there any alternative spark plugs that will fire an RX8? I've searched everywhere and can't find anything other than the expensive denso or NGK plugs. I read about an RX7 owner buying some cheap autolite plugs just for a test start. I tested the plugs that got flooded, but I'm not positive that they aren't fouled. I would like to find a cheap set that I can throw in just to see if it will start with new plugs before I spend the money on a new set of NGK iridium.
#32
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My local Autozone has the NGK for just $1.50 more than Amazon, I just cant afford to spend that much right now running the risk that the starter will just cause them to get fouled. Guess I have wait till next month and get plugs and a starter.
Last edited by JayP; 11-15-2011 at 01:29 PM.
#34
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I agree with you on the coils and wires that I probably SHOULD replace them, but they check out fine, they're providing spark, so why spend the money that I don't have anyway. I just have to get this P.O.S. started before I worry about other problems.
#35
Phone Booth'd
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That certainly is odd with the vin and everything.
Just because you're getting a spark, doesn't mean that your coils are providing enough spark, or enough spark at the right times. While I understand that it's money you don't have, even if you get it started again, you might find you're back in the same boat rather quickly. I'm also not saying that it's the answer to your problem. Just something to think about.
Just because you're getting a spark, doesn't mean that your coils are providing enough spark, or enough spark at the right times. While I understand that it's money you don't have, even if you get it started again, you might find you're back in the same boat rather quickly. I'm also not saying that it's the answer to your problem. Just something to think about.
#37
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I can put a meter on the coil and check for amperage, but I can't find info on how much amperage they're supposed to provide. No idea when or if the wires were replaced, could be original from factory unless the previous owner went to the trouble of putting the blue and green tape on the replacement wires (which is not out of the question, the car was well maintained). I really can't just throw money at the problem until next month, I just need to get it started ASAP cause it's getting to damn cold to walk 2 miles to work in the morning. But if I can't get it started soon, I'm forced to buy a junker to get me to work and the 8 will be sitting for awhile. Checking the plugs, wires, and coils is impossible when I am working on it alone as well so I have that problem going for me.
#38
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That had me thinking, just checked the vin on edmunds.com and another free vin check site, edmunds said trim was 4 door shinka, the free vin check site said it's a 2 door base trim. Who knows? I'm inclined to believe that it's not a shinka though considering it has no signs of being one other than a couple of vin checks. Maybe it was supposed to be one and there was a vin mix up in Japan? lol
#39
buy a junker anyway. driving it for just 2 miles at a time only kills it.
Why can't you just have the car towed to a shop with a compression tester anyway? With hot starting issues, long crank times etc that's where you should start from anyway.
Worn coils only add up to an extent, checking the catalytic converter takes maybe 30 mins.
Why can't you just have the car towed to a shop with a compression tester anyway? With hot starting issues, long crank times etc that's where you should start from anyway.
Worn coils only add up to an extent, checking the catalytic converter takes maybe 30 mins.
#43
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buy a junker anyway. driving it for just 2 miles at a time only kills it.
Why can't you just have the car towed to a shop with a compression tester anyway? With hot starting issues, long crank times etc that's where you should start from anyway.
Worn coils only add up to an extent, checking the catalytic converter takes maybe 30 mins.
Why can't you just have the car towed to a shop with a compression tester anyway? With hot starting issues, long crank times etc that's where you should start from anyway.
Worn coils only add up to an extent, checking the catalytic converter takes maybe 30 mins.
I can't get it towed/compression check/CC check because the warranty expired 3,000 miles ago when the car was flawless. You have $1,000 lying around I can borrow to get this towed, checked and repaired by the dealer, cause I don't. I'm not trying to be a smart ***, just frustrated and have no solutions.
#44
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I do properly care for it, down to every last tiny detail. It's flooded even though I let it warm to the minimum engine temp, my bad, should have let it get all the way to optimum operating temp. So now that it's flooded and I don't have a ton of money lying around to dump into repairs I can't properly care for it? And the hot start issues are common to this starter, not exactly what I would label as an owner's negligence.
#45
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I do properly care for it, down to every last tiny detail. It's flooded even though I let it warm to the minimum engine temp, my bad, should have let it get all the way to optimum operating temp. So now that it's flooded and I don't have a ton of money lying around to dump into repairs I can't properly care for it? And the hot start issues are common to this starter, not exactly what I would label as an owner's negligence.
#47
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Where can you get the upgraded starter for $150? The lowest price I've found was $255 for a used starter that was the OEM from an 04, not even a refurb. I usually do have the money to maintain this car, this month is an exception for personal reasons, don't worry about my financial situation rich guy.
#48
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That is correct soldier. The hot start issue started a few weeks ago and had gotten worse right before the flooding, so I know I need a new starter. Dealer said $99.95 for the MSP-16 flash.
#50
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OEM flash
original coils/wires likely (I haven't changed them in the 10k miles I've owned it)
So far I've:
changed plugs, air filter...then flooded it after checking for vacuum leaks.
Then I:
performed a deflood per TSB
Cleaned plugs with ether, tooth brush, compressed air
checked for spark from coils to plug, I have spark
checked battery, I have 12+ volts
Definitely getting fuel to the engine
checked compression per this instruction http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm
sprayed ether into the intake before trying to start it
And it still won't start. True that I may not be getting enough spark but I don't know how much current is supposed to be passing through. I'll check and get a reading tonight if my neighbor can crank the engine for me while I check everything.