so I've noticed that if I'm driving then I turn off the car for a few min (say to fill up the tank, or run inside to an ATM) then it takes forever to crank.

I know we have issues in the winter where it could take forever to crank, but this isn't just in winter, it happens in summer, and almost always after I let the car warm up and not give it enough time to 'cool down'

 

Does the engine turn over for a long time before starting or does it fail to turn over?

 

takes a long time to start. it turns over with no problem.

 

Please give us some more history and service done on your car. It might just need engine de-carbon done or a few cans of sea foam run through it.

 

Service history:

It has 70k km
I run premix (idemitsu + rl si-1)
oil is changed quite frequently more than 2x the recommended regular service intervals.
spark plugs changed last year, but I used the RE7C-L and not the RE6C-L (found here: http://www.mazdatrix.com/8ignition.htm)

and it only does this when I drive, then it warms up (can be driving for any length thereafter) then I turn it off for a few min, then try to start it back up it takes much longer to start (but it does start). If I let the car sit for say an hour, it'll fire right up right away without issues. This is temperature independent, as I've noticed it in +30C weather and -40C weather and everything throughout. It hasn't really bugged me, but I figured since I'm still in warranty for a little while I might as well get it checked out.

although I think the spark plugs might be the issue.

Other than this, I have not had ANY problems with the car, no loss of power, no hesitation, no random CEL, has never flooded or anything.

 

I'm having the same problem, haven't fixed it yet either...but I'll let ya know if I do.

 

I have the same problem. I have new plugs, coils and battery. When the engine is warm, it takes a few tries (up to 4 or 5), but eventually starts up. I brought the car in to the dealer a few days ago and they did a PCM update. Haven't really had the chance to test if this update took care of the problem though.

 

Update: I replaced the starter with the upgraded quicker spinning unit and it fixed the warm start problems. Now the car starts up in less than 1 second, cold or warm.

If you have a 2004 with the original starter, I would look into getting the upgraded starter.

 

I have a 54 plate 231 version that i've had since aug 08 and mine does exactly the same. I drove for about 4 miles and stopped the engine for about ten minutes, when i got back in the car to start it, it took 16 attempts to start the engine as it was too hot. Mazda have said it's either the spark plugs, coil and leads or the engine management system. I asked about the upgraded starter and they advised that it was a different fault and the only advice he would give was that it would be quite expensive to fix it. I have written to my finance company about the car as I believe the car had this fault when we bought it,

I've also spoken to consumer direct about it who didn't seem too impressed about it when i told them i'd stalled it in the middle of a busy main road and was stuck there for 20 minutes before the car would start again. I can't even go to a petrol station to fill up if i'm out and the car is hot as i know im gonna have the same problems.

just don't know where to go with this as I know there are so many RX8 owners having the same issues. What i wanna know is why mazda UK aren't taking responsibilty for this as it's obviously a known manufactuer fault

any advice would be great, love the car but so paranoid of driving it and not sure if one day it simply will pack up and not start at all!!!!

 

When my car was hard starting when warm the fix ended up being a replacement motor. It was diagnosed as a broken side seal. I did not experience power loss or idle problems either. They did upgrade my starter when they replaced the motor.

 

My car has been having the same problem. I have a replacement engine with less than 2000 miles on it. They also upgraded my starter to the new faster model, and replaced my battery at the same time. The engine starts fast when cold, maybe not quite as fast as my original engine. But if I stop after its warmed up, like to go into a store or to get gas or whatever, it's very hard to restart. It will also stall out on me on the road when I try to accelerate from a stop. It will move 5-10 feet forward then sputter out and die, it takes 2-4 minutes and many attempts to get it to restart. And even then it restarts very weakly and barely manages to start spinning on its own. It hasn't had any noticeable power loss, but my gas mileage is only 12-13mpg, which is less than my bad engine was getting.

I've also been having intermittent problems with my clutch since having my engine replaced. It has inconsistent pedal pressure and rubbing noises when the clutch is disengaged. This rubbing can also be felt strongly through the clutch pedal when it's happening. The dealer re-bleed the clutch shortly after replacing the engine, which helped but it still happens sometimes. I took it to the dealer again recently for the clutch and the more recent hard starting/stalling problem but they couldn't find or replicate any of the problems. They said that everything was in spec they even called the Mazda tech line and kept my car over night.

 

I'm still having problems with my car not re-starting, or having a long hard re-start when hot (operating temp). It also stalls itself after I've been at a stop idelling for a while then try to move forward, this is when it's the hardest to restart. It happens to me at least every other day, but the dealer can not replicate my issues, so they won't/can't do anything about it. I took it in to the dealer again yesterday and they've kept it overnight for the second time now. I'm becoming very frustrated, not directly at them, but because my car keeps temporarily stranding me. They don't tell me exactly what they check, other then repeatedly driving the car till warm, shutting it off, waiting a few minutes and re-start, but they say everything is in spec. I haven't suddenly forgot how to use a clutch after having this car for 5 years, and owning two second gen RX7's before this. I'm not the reason it stalls and doesn't re-start. And I'm not getting bad premium gas from Costco or Fred Meyer's every single tank. Why does it only have hot starting problems for me?

Could this be the side seal issue? Would that explain the low mpg I'm getting. Is unburnt fuel going to destroy my cat? The dealer claims it is quite impossible for there to be unburnt fuel because the "hundreds of sensors and back up sensors would cause a CEL", their words.

I don't know what to do, this problem is VERY real, but nothing can be done until the dealer replicates it.

 

fuel pump.


beers

 

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind...

 

Same with me. This was back in 8/05. The car only had 13,000 mi. on it. I was never told what failed on the engine.

 

My next step will be to take it to a different dealer. I have varying degrees of hard starts every time I try to start it when hot, shortly after shutting it off. The dealer had it for a total of 4 days and could not replicate the issue once they claim!

 

I don't know if this will help, but when my thermostat was going my engine would run real hot but the gauge didn't really move. I would stop at a store or somewhere and get back in and crank it and crank it and nothing until a couple more times. After I replaced my thermostat the engine runs at it's normal temp now and i've probably put about 800 to 1000 miles on it since and no problems with starting now. I used my scangauge to be able to tell what my temps where. I hope this helps save some money if it would be the problem.

 

Make sure that it is warm when you drop it off and show them the failure at that time. The mechanic doesn't want to spend the time to warm up the car then try to restart. They are on the clock.

 

So your temp gauge said normal? What temps did you see with the Scangauge before and after the Thermostat.

 

Well before thermo I was running 225-234 and 245 highest when getting on it a little. After thermo it usually runs at 179 to I'd say the highest is 186 and the 186 is getting on it good, and had a nice trip to altoona and my temps stayed around 186 maybe 193 in stop and go traffic for about an hour. I have all the other info in one of my threads I think it was called radiator cap/temps/ something else can't remember right now. I know that when it was around these temps I would have a hard time starting the car, but not all the times. I think it was how I drove then shut it off when I got somewhere since my thermo was messed up.

 

I get the same temps on my Scangauge, so I'm ok.

 

I have a 2004 with 150+K miles on original factory engine. This is what works for me to resolve the hot start problem: premium non ethanol fuel and Lucas deep clean fuel system cleaner. I use less cleaner with new plugs and increase amount with plug age and or smallest sign of fouling. I'll use from a few ounces to a full bottle. I don't abuse my car but drive it firmly for you have to run the rpms high to keep it running good and occasionally take it out and red line it.............This has worked for me for years, just stumbled on it accidently out of desperation and trying different things. My mileage stays around 17/18 city and 21 on a long drive. Of course, this depends on how much I put my foot into it.

 

Hot starts usually mean low compression. I've heard fuel pumps can cause this problem too, but it's most likely low compression typically due to worn apex seals and sometimes due to an engine that needs to be de-carbed.

Fitting a faster spinning starter does not fix the issue. It just masks it. If you start good cold, , you should start good hot on a healthy engine. Also, when your battery is warmed up (assuming you have a healthy battery and good charging system), it typically generates more amps than when it's hot so I would think you would start just as fast hot.

If you have hot starting issues, the best course of action to take is to compression test your car. This is usually the culprit. You can do an at home test which is not as accurate as a dealership test but will give you a good indication of your engine health assuming you have a device that can read RPMS and a compression tester with the schrader valve pulled.

Just my 2c. Good luck.