How to check if your SSV is working properly
#1
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
How to check if your SSV is working properly
Watch this video :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyWF...ature=youtu.be
If your ssv is activating during free rev and engine shutdown as per the video ...it's working properly.
Check it again 5 mins after shutting the engine off by turning ignition on/off to check that vacuum tank isn't leaking.
Note : Air pump solenoid has been removed so if it is still there it will be harder to see the ssv .
Electric position switch for ssv has also been removed .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyWF...ature=youtu.be
If your ssv is activating during free rev and engine shutdown as per the video ...it's working properly.
Check it again 5 mins after shutting the engine off by turning ignition on/off to check that vacuum tank isn't leaking.
Note : Air pump solenoid has been removed so if it is still there it will be harder to see the ssv .
Electric position switch for ssv has also been removed .
Last edited by Brettus; 10-11-2020 at 05:59 PM.
#2
Not to go off and thread jack, but this is just the newest thread on the topic.
After learning that the SSV isnt properly functioning, Ive removed it, cleaned, and am ready to reinstall. I cant see anywhere, even in the FSM if anything needs to be applied directly to it when reinstalling. I have some high temp grease I was going to apply, but anything else? Obviously oil is what causes the issues... so that wont work.
Thanks
After learning that the SSV isnt properly functioning, Ive removed it, cleaned, and am ready to reinstall. I cant see anywhere, even in the FSM if anything needs to be applied directly to it when reinstalling. I have some high temp grease I was going to apply, but anything else? Obviously oil is what causes the issues... so that wont work.
Thanks
#3
Not to go off and thread jack, but this is just the newest thread on the topic.
After learning that the SSV isnt properly functioning, Ive removed it, cleaned, and am ready to reinstall. I cant see anywhere, even in the FSM if anything needs to be applied directly to it when reinstalling. I have some high temp grease I was going to apply, but anything else? Obviously oil is what causes the issues... so that wont work.
Thanks
After learning that the SSV isnt properly functioning, Ive removed it, cleaned, and am ready to reinstall. I cant see anywhere, even in the FSM if anything needs to be applied directly to it when reinstalling. I have some high temp grease I was going to apply, but anything else? Obviously oil is what causes the issues... so that wont work.
Thanks
#4
Just watched the video. I'm sure mine works as intended. Will double check tomorrow.
However, sometimes while reviving, my car stumbles for a split second around 4500 RPM. I think it's when the SSV opens. Doesn't happen all the time.
Heard clearly in this random video I found.
Heard at 27 second mark. It's like a pop. What could it be?
However, sometimes while reviving, my car stumbles for a split second around 4500 RPM. I think it's when the SSV opens. Doesn't happen all the time.
Heard clearly in this random video I found.
Heard at 27 second mark. It's like a pop. What could it be?
#8
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
the pop you hear there is a backfire when you change gear ..... normal after the cat has been removed.
Hesitaion as ssv opens is common , especially if it is running a little rich. There is a restrictor in the line to the ssv that is supposed to slow the speed the ssv opens at, and prevent this . If you restrict that line further you can eliminate it altogether.
Hesitaion as ssv opens is common , especially if it is running a little rich. There is a restrictor in the line to the ssv that is supposed to slow the speed the ssv opens at, and prevent this . If you restrict that line further you can eliminate it altogether.
Last edited by Brettus; 07-28-2017 at 09:49 PM.
#9
If you slow it down too much it won't open fast enough when running through the lower gears where the engine accelerates through the rev range quickly. I've never noticed any hesitation issue on any of my NA Renesis motors. I wouldn't recommend restricting it for NA use unless you have the ability to adjust the point where it begins opening to compensate for slowing it down. Otherwise the secondary ports will be opening too late.
with all due respect, you're one of the least knowledgable members on this forum and shouldn't be advising anyone else on anything RX-8 related. It needs grease on the inner bearing end post the same as the VDI assembly. When you buy a new one it comes with grease already pre-installed on that end.
with all due respect, you're one of the least knowledgable members on this forum and shouldn't be advising anyone else on anything RX-8 related. It needs grease on the inner bearing end post the same as the VDI assembly. When you buy a new one it comes with grease already pre-installed on that end.
#10
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
If you slow it down too much it won't open fast enough when running through the lower gears where the engine accelerates through the rev range quickly. I've never noticed any hesitation issue on any of my NA Renesis motors. I wouldn't recommend restricting it for NA use unless you have the ability to adjust the point where it begins opening to compensate for slowing it down. Otherwise the secondary ports will be opening too late.
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I've done it on my turbo 8 BTW.
#11
Originally Posted by Brettus
the pop you hear there is a backfire when you change gear ..... normal after the cat has been removed.
Hesitaion as ssv opens is common , especially if it is running a little rich. There is a restrictor in the line to the ssv that is supposed to slow the speed the ssv opens at, and prevent this . If you restrict that line further you can eliminate it altogether.
Hesitaion as ssv opens is common , especially if it is running a little rich. There is a restrictor in the line to the ssv that is supposed to slow the speed the ssv opens at, and prevent this . If you restrict that line further you can eliminate it altogether.
#12
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Hesitation is the correct word. I'm not talking about the pop when he changes gears. There is a pop that happens around 4000-5000 rpm WHILE accelerating. It happens in first gear, before he changes into second. It's as if the car hesitates for a split second. Like, it accelerates, then stops accelerating for a millisecond, and then starts to accelerate again.
yeah probably ssv opening so fast that it causes a small miss from an afr spike
#16
Ok so to further thread jack...
Ive got the bearing lubed up. SSV and its respective chamber are spotless. The diaphragm is also functioning fine. When I insert the SSV back into the block its a little tight. It doesn't rotate as I
think it should. When its bolted down to factory spec (I triple checked), its frozen. To confirm as well, this is still with the vacuum line disconnected. Any thoughts guys?
Ive got the bearing lubed up. SSV and its respective chamber are spotless. The diaphragm is also functioning fine. When I insert the SSV back into the block its a little tight. It doesn't rotate as I
think it should. When its bolted down to factory spec (I triple checked), its frozen. To confirm as well, this is still with the vacuum line disconnected. Any thoughts guys?
#17
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Ok so to further thread jack...
Ive got the bearing lubed up. SSV and its respective chamber are spotless. The diaphragm is also functioning fine. When I insert the SSV back into the block its a little tight. It doesn't rotate as I
think it should. When its bolted down to factory spec (I triple checked), its frozen. To confirm as well, this is still with the vacuum line disconnected. Any thoughts guys?
Ive got the bearing lubed up. SSV and its respective chamber are spotless. The diaphragm is also functioning fine. When I insert the SSV back into the block its a little tight. It doesn't rotate as I
think it should. When its bolted down to factory spec (I triple checked), its frozen. To confirm as well, this is still with the vacuum line disconnected. Any thoughts guys?
#18
The gasket appears like it can only go on one way. If its rotated 180, or flipped, the holes dont line up.
Otherwise, I also test fitted it without the gasket, bolts, with and without the bearing lubed.
It doesnt seem like people have trouble getting these things back in. Almost no info on reinstalling, just removal.
Otherwise, I also test fitted it without the gasket, bolts, with and without the bearing lubed.
It doesnt seem like people have trouble getting these things back in. Almost no info on reinstalling, just removal.
#19
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
The gasket appears like it can only go on one way. If its rotated 180, or flipped, the holes dont line up.
Otherwise, I also test fitted it without the gasket, bolts, with and without the bearing lubed.
It doesnt seem like people have trouble getting these things back in. Almost no info on reinstalling, just removal.
Otherwise, I also test fitted it without the gasket, bolts, with and without the bearing lubed.
It doesnt seem like people have trouble getting these things back in. Almost no info on reinstalling, just removal.
The following users liked this post:
300zxsteve (08-01-2017)
#20
So.. Youre guessing the same thing I am now. The valve was extremely stuck. I was smart enough to not pull on the actuator or anything to hard, but I still had to wiggle the sucker back and forth a bit to get any initial movement. Visual, it seems perfectly straight when I hold it, but I cant possible see what else would prevent it from moving once its bolted up tight....
#21
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Yeah, no gasket was tried after the first time I test fitted it.
So.. Youre guessing the same thing I am now. The valve was extremely stuck. I was smart enough to not pull on the actuator or anything to hard, but I still had to wiggle the sucker back and forth a bit to get any initial movement. Visual, it seems perfectly straight when I hold it, but I cant possible see what else would prevent it from moving once its bolted up tight....
So.. Youre guessing the same thing I am now. The valve was extremely stuck. I was smart enough to not pull on the actuator or anything to hard, but I still had to wiggle the sucker back and forth a bit to get any initial movement. Visual, it seems perfectly straight when I hold it, but I cant possible see what else would prevent it from moving once its bolted up tight....
I had a couple that were stuck like that recently . I sprayed some wd40 down the hole and worked it back and forth to get it out being careful not to impose any mechanical side loads to the shaft .
This was with the manifold off the engine . I'd be real nervous about what crap you send toward the engine if doing it in place.
#25
The new one is updated though. The idle ticking/rattle people get is the early version SSV version shaft getting loose/sloppy in the actuator arm slot and the idle intake pulses move it back and forth in the wallowed out slot hole; tick, tick, tick ....