Idle dip hose cracked help
#1
Idle dip hose cracked help
So i changed my ignition coils ..unpluged battery while i did it i got the car all put back together and i noticed that the bottom hose on the air intake was dry rotted.(the one that comes from just below the oil cap ..) and broke off and the elbows entering the according tube...now the car will not idle at all.did a few drive cycles for it to learn fuel trims...as soon as i turn it on it dies out if i keep my foot on the gas its ok but as soon as i take my foot off the gas.. it dies out..i have the hole sealed to where their is no leak...but it is still not remembering to hold the idle steady..im stumped been on here since 6 this morning searching threads..(yes i did the 20 brake pedal stomp)did not work...just trying to get some more info. i called mazda and ordered the intake elbow thing that broke.im hoping its just that..but it seems that there is somthing bigger wrong..why would that hose make such a difference in air to fuel ratio? its just a oil blow by right?
#2
It's a vacuum leak, until you get it fixed you will have issues. Just go to an auto parts store and get a vacuum fitting that fits the hose and the spot on the accordion tube, they sell them in all sizes and the size you need is standard.
#4
Yes, it can. Not all the time but, usually it will just cause it to idle like **** but every car is a little different depending on the condition of the engine. If it's open that is a pretty serious vacuum leak.
#5
thanks 9k im gonna try to go and find a fitting that will work. if not mazda will hopefully have one in the morning for me.. Im hoping that it will fix it..if not i will be updating this thread..till i find a cure...
#6
Yeah the factory fitting is best because the store bought ones are straight and white in color. But in a pinch the store bought ones work just fine. Just remember, that air going in is unfiltered air so don't go screaming down a dirt road It's also unmetered so your car will likely run poorly as well.
#7
sorry if i'm hopping from thread to thread but i'm stressing over this issue i am having.so my little plastic part that the tube goes on did the same thing at the bottom of my airbox to whoever swapped the coils before because it just fell off when i took the hose off about 2 months ago. now it wasn't too bad but now it idles rough and its not very consistent so i have come to a conclusion that i don't think its the hot start problem and thought it could be the fuel filter because i was literaly about .2 gallons away from going empty the one day. however i put mine back on with some plastic repair for repairing holes in bumpers and was wondering if you think this could be the problem other than my fuel filter since this happened after i changed both coils wires and plugs?
#8
My car was running fine until i changed the coils and broke that hose elbow i rigged a little fix with parts from autozone but stii has very bad idle and same code for low idle i think its p0506 , im picking up the part from mazda tomorrow will update as i find more out good luck
#9
Not just Rx-8, any car will just idle like **** when you have a vacuum leak.
Cuz the ECU will only inject X amount of fuel with Y amount of air. but when unmetered air comes in it will be like wtf ? and it will try very hard try to get it right. after a few tries it will give up and tell you "Yo, something is wrong!" with a CEL.
Cuz the ECU will only inject X amount of fuel with Y amount of air. but when unmetered air comes in it will be like wtf ? and it will try very hard try to get it right. after a few tries it will give up and tell you "Yo, something is wrong!" with a CEL.
Last edited by nycgps; 03-16-2012 at 12:18 AM.
#10
well i got the part from mazda.. put it back on and started the car waited stayed idleing because it was a cold start...took it for a test drive to get it to gain its memory back by for the fuel air ratio .. keeping it going and took it for a test ride everything was fine and once the temp gauge got warm.on my test drive the idle would die out at every stop sign every time.. tried the 20 brake pedal stomp tried upluging battery to wipe memory .. did not work now every time i start it it dies and there is no more check engine light either..what do i do?Thanks in advance
http://youtu.be/rQB6vSE7wkw
http://youtu.be/rQB6vSE7wkw
#14
just tried this i unplugged the battery and held the brake pedal down for a minute or so put battery back in and it..idled fine at start up then slowly fades down and sputters down to 0 rpm and dies...thanks though for your input
#15
Well im biting the bullet and dropping it off at the stealer today never got back a steady idle.after every thing i tried now im just waiting for a phone call. Thanks for everyones input.
#16
Have you tried resetting the sensor profiles with the repeated brake stomp method? Seems weird that the engine is shot when it was running fine before you broke the vacuum nipple. But stranger coincidences have happened.
#17
On a side not how Much did you throw down for a rebuild from pinapple racing?
or did you buy it from them ..?
#19
yeah im hoping not the check engine light was a low idle control vaccum i think it was p0506 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0506 but im hoping thats it ..if not it will be number 3 for me..
#20
yeah im hoping not the check engine light was a low idle control vaccum i think it was p0506 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0506 but im hoping thats it ..if not it will be number 3 for me..
#23
Bump for this? I am having the same issue. Luckily my dealership inst into charging me for needless crap, throwing parts at it etc. They are willing to listen to me for research I do on hear and try things.
No vacuum leak on mine. No loss of power. 35k on 2nd motor... Coils and ignition all replaced on motor swap.
Idles between 520 and 1580 RPM's... Finally dies after 5 - 10 minutes of that sputtering ****.
Can hold throttle to run about 2000 rpm's and it will drop down to 1500 - 1000 every so often. However does not do this while under way.
I have been searching this forum for WEEKS for the best answer/suggestions.
No vacuum leak on mine. No loss of power. 35k on 2nd motor... Coils and ignition all replaced on motor swap.
Idles between 520 and 1580 RPM's... Finally dies after 5 - 10 minutes of that sputtering ****.
Can hold throttle to run about 2000 rpm's and it will drop down to 1500 - 1000 every so often. However does not do this while under way.
I have been searching this forum for WEEKS for the best answer/suggestions.
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