2007 GT manual, 48,000 miles, owned it for about 2 years.
MODS: grounding kit, AEM cold air intake, sound system with Metra Kit, Glowshift gauges.

I live in Utah and about 2 months ago we got a cold snap and it didn't get above 20 degrees fahrenheit for a couple weeks. When the cold hit, my car started taking longer then normal to start. Normal for my car is 1 maybe 2 seconds crank before it starts up. Now it takes roughly 3-5 seconds crank time, hot or cold, to get the engine going. Once it is running I haven't noticed any sudden power loss. I've read many many threads on here regarding starting issues and everything that I've read has me thinking that this is a sign of my ignition system starting to go bad. I'm fairly certain that my plugs, wires and coils have never been replaced over the life of the car. So i'm considering replacing all of those.

My question is if i drive my 8 in this condition is it causing additional damage to the engine? or the cat? because if it isn't I would prefer to keep driving for probably another month before I save up enough to purchase the BHR ignition system. OPINIONS??

 

Failing ignition kills cats.. clogged cats kill motors.

You've owned it for two years and never replaced the ignition system.
It's time. Plain and simple YES it will cause other issues/damage.

Fix it.

Read the threads linked in my sig and welcome

Travis

 

A lot of Rotary starting issues are due to starter speed. Cold battery equals lower voltage and slower starter speed

Cold air and fuel leads to much lower fuel atomization as well

If it starts in 3-5 seconds in the cold I wouldn't freak out...

Be careful that you let it run until it warms up in the cold....flooding is much easier in lower temps as well

 

My opinion is that you should take the advice of the many threads you have read and replace the ignition (or at least verify it).
Having to ask if you should replace means that you haven't understood what you're reading.

As Williard mentioned- failed ignition systems kill cats; failed cats kill engines. Understand that, and you'll have a better understanding of why our recommendations should not be taken lightly.

 

Thanks for all the replies! I know I need to replace the ignition, I was just wondering if I could put it off for another month till I can afford the BHR. My battery is less then a year old and i've verified all my connections ensuring that i have great contact. cats don't clog over night right? they take some time... I will be purchasing new ignition components shortly. Just a matter of urgency...

 

Verify the components. Verify the condition of the cat. Once you do that, you'll have your answer.

 

It took less than a week for a failed CAT to kill engine #2 on my 8.

But by all means, take your time.

Travis

 

It's recommended that the OEM ignition components be changed every 30k.
While I would never dissuade someone from refreshing the ignition past that timeframe, if you have not received any CELs for misfires or cat below efficiency threshold, waiting a month MIGHT be OK.
It doesn't mean that all ignition components automatically fail past 30k.
I bought mine with less than 19k, CEL for a bad cat popped up 4 days after I bought it.
It had one failed coil, that was enough to destroy my cat.
I would advise you get a free OBD scan from a local auto parts store to be certain you don't have any stored or pending codes if you must wait.

 

Just wanted to give everyone an update. I stopped driving my car the day I read these posts and then the previous day I tested all the components using the testing procedure find on the forum. I discovered that I had one coil that wasn't firing at all and since have ordered coils, wires and plugs from MazMart! Now I'm just hoping that once I get everything put on I won't get a CEL a week down the road saying my cat is fried. Anyways thanks for all the input guys!

 

Drop the cat and check it.

By the time you realize the cats destroyed without checking, your motor would likely already be damaged.

Travis

 

Good point! Now is as good as time as any since I'm not driving it

 

You need to check both sides. As I've said before IME the catalyst breaks down at the rear of the cat first. Then eventually the front follows.

Good luck

Travis

 

Thanks! So pulling it all the way off and doing a visual inspection from both ends should do it justice right?

 

If you don't have a scope, do the best you can with visuals and a flashlight. Be smart. Cats kill engines as I said.

Travis

 

I dunno, in my experience, the front half usually goes first.

This was the front half of mine with about 20k.

 

Yeah, if it isn't obviously clogged or damaged, shine the light through it and look to see the light through the other end.

 

I've checked well over 20 BigC

All but mabye 5 or 6 showed signs of the rear deteriorating before the front.



Travis

 

What's a "catalyst"?

 

cat·a·lyst
ˈkad(ə)ləst/
noun
a substance that increases the rate of a chemical reaction without itself undergoing any permanent chemical change.

Harmful chemicals being changed are as follows.
Hydrocarbons*(in the form of unburned gasoline)
Carbon monoxide*(formed by the combustion of gasoline)
Nitrogen oxides*(created when the heat in the*engineforces nitrogen in the air to combine with oxygen)

Travis

 

Heheh I was trolling cuz I haz none

Sorry, I'll stop...

 

I'll take your word for it, but it doesn't make sense to me.
Mine is the only 8 I've looked at, I was going on experiences from a long time ago on older cars from the 80s & early 90s.

 

K guys my parts should finally be arriving any day now!! So I pulled my cat off and here are some pics of the front and rear sections of the cat. It doesn't appear to be clogged at all however when i was moving it around I could hear some loose stuff shaking around inside the cat. Do I need to pull the O2 sensor and look inside through that hole?




Rear of CAT





Front of CAT

 

It's probably a good idea, since I learned the back half can break up before the front half.
I always assumed it wouldn't.
Also, you should be able to shine a light in it and see the light come through.
If both of those check out, the heat shield could be rattling.
You can put some bungee cords around it to check.
Also be sure your rubber hanger is good, sometimes the metal post can wear through and rattle metal on metal.
But if you hear loose pieces, it's probably going bad.

 

If you hear rattling inside, it's done.

Pull the 02, you'll see broken cat parts.


Travis

 

And if you can't remove it then you can test it with a laser thermometer. This is how many shops do it.

Example: