it does not need to be repaced, it needs to be cleaned.. it can be done, but you have to remove the motor to do it...

beers

 

I us pulled my engine with about 60K miles on it...I had virtually no carbon on any of the valves. The VDI and SSV were spotless...and there was a little bit on the APV barrels....but it was soft and virtually wiped off.

With the cleearances of the APV barrels...I don't know how these can get stuck without a ton of carbon buildup??? What the hell do you guys have in your gas down there

ps: I drive the **** out of it on the track.....so maybe thats why mine is so clean??

 

I had a SSV issue once, I can feel the *Choke* when going thru the 5800 rpm ~ 6250 Range.

drove the **** outa it couple of tanks solved the problem. ahh well

 

My question was kind of only half answered, so again, can you replace the VDI and SSV valve individually, or do you have to buy a new intake?

 

i am wondering the same thing. how does it happen? just because not redline the car enough? i think i had the same issue maybe not but fortunately it was coverd by warranty. but i had the part after the throttle body(i still dont know whats that called so far). i was thinking that was probably because of the k&n intake oil....cuz my issue happened right after i cleaned my k&n and reoilled too much....

 

girzly the VDI and SSv are not sold seperately, they come with a awhole manifold. u CAN remove the VDI but that gets u nowhere bc no one has spare vdi's laying around.



no you wouldnt, im not reading 4 pages of this but to remove the lower intake manifold u need to drop the engine.

ive done it 3 times and it aint quick.

and the best way to keep the VDI, APV, and SSV valves from sticking is to run it at high ropm to oepn them up a lot.

u must drive pretty easy on her to get the valves stuck.

for MT engines....

SSV is 3200 ish rpm range
VFAD is 5,000 ish rpm range (dont quote me, i took mine out when i put in the CAI so i stop caring when it opens)
APV is 6250 ish rpm range
VDI is 7300 ish rpm range

if u have an issue at any of these rpms, start with the corresponding valves. they stick from not being used enuff.....

 

Dammit! I got the p2070 CEL code today. My car really feels like it is dragging now. When i accelerate in 1st, around 5,000 it sort of jerks, after that it just doesn't quite feel like it should. Shift into second after redlining and it just seems like my car's acceleration dies away and just doesn't have that "giddy-up and go" feel anymore. So, I may be experiencing carbon clogging on the VFAD? I took it to the dealership, they ran the check but didn't quote me any work yet. I have to take it back in tomorrow morning, but if it is something I can do myself with the help of a good friend who has worked with rotaries half of his life, then I would prefer that method. But seeing a quote of $3000+, I cannot afford that. should I just try and run my engine at high rpm's more frequently to try and unclog it or should I try and get in to clean them out with some sort of cleaner? thanks.

 

remove UIM...dump a can of B44 or Mopar Combustion chamber cleaner into the secondary intake runners.......wait overnight.....then remove APV motor..and turn the gear by hand...should be OK

Then rev the crap out of it more often.....

 

Unfortunately, my 8 has been running like its got an Anchor hanging off the tailpipe for the last two months. I always use Amoco Ultimate gas, and for the last two months I have been adding fuel treatment or injector cleaner just to make it run like crap. Don't get me wrong I am a firm believer that a sports car should be exciting, but not because there are cars coming and I am not sure I can make it across the intersection in time. My 8 is in the shop and will set me back $450 bucks for the SSV cleaning. I have 100 miles left on the powertrain warranty and the service manager is going to ask to his rep if they will cover the intake replacement (at my insistance) I find out tomorrow about that. I talked to the mazda mechanic about this being a poor fix for $500 because it will do it again. He said to have BG (insisted only BG and nothing else) run into the system about every 10000 miles. He said it doesn't have to be at a Mazda dealer there are pleanty of service centers that do it, but it does need to be pumped into the engine through the equipment that atomizes it. pouring it in only cleans what it happens to wash over. Here is a quick clip I found while researching.

http://www.bgfindashop.com/bgservices/fuelair.htm

 

Got this CEL about two months ago. It was intermittent so I thought it was the gas cap, then the plugs (replaced them). Finally after reviewing posts I got a DTR reader from autoMD (Web) for $ 90 and got a P2070 code. I then added Gasout (Not the cheap stuff, the $ 14/can stuff), ran the car hard for a weekend and now no CEL. Put about 120 miles on it before the CEL went out and it ahs been out for ~ 300 miles. The longest it has stayed off since it started going on.

Hope this is a fix. I am tired of spending $$$$ on this thing.

 

I just got this code too.....****...
Just got back from the dealer, they said it is stuck open and they could not get it to close. Is there any way to try and work this? I don't want to pay $3000 to replace a damn valve......please help. Thanks.

 

Got the same loss of power. I put in new coils, plugs and wires. Then the CEL came up p2070 (free to check at Autozone). Took the advice and added Sea Foam. Ran it hard for about 40mi then shut it down a few hours to soak. On restart the light is out!

I then had the dealer update the PCM flash according to the MSP16. Everything seems good. The dealer did pull the inactive p2070 code and told me cleaning or replacing it wouldn't be covered under the extended 8yr/100k warranty stated in the 10/24/08 service bulletin. I'm at 86k now. Can anyone clarify this?

 

Mine had this issue to and i disconected my batt and the light came back on and i disconected it once again... the only symptms that i got were that around 5K rpm it would JERK and loww of power in high RPMs and i also got that code p2004 p2070 i believe...
not sure on the last one.

and they said that they could not do anything for it because the code wasnt oon.. soo it hasnt come back since.. but occasionally it acts up on me when i get to 5K rpm

 

when u pull the battery to reset ECU, does this affect the flashes currently on the car?

 

nope

 

Nope.

you will lose all the information stored on your radio(stock) and certain ECU information (like the air/fuel mixture rate AKA fuel trim, driving habbits, CEL, etc)

 

after i pulled the battery, I noticed that my fuel economy dropped ~2mpg consistently. am i doing something wrong?

sorry to get off topic

 

No, you didn't do anything wrong. When the battery is out the ECU resets all of the engine fuel trims to their default settings. It takes the ECU a few drive cycles to re-learn your driving characteristics.

Another possible reason for lower mileage is the time of year, cold weather fuels are changed a bit to aid cold weather starting and we all tend to idle more to warm up the car = worse mpg. I have to say that my 8's mpg seems to suffer more than any piston car I've owned in cold weather but a small price to pay considering how much enjoyment I get driving.

 

lets hope it's the cold formula gas....i want to get accessport to fix my fuel maps...

 

adding a small image, to get VB to restore all the old ones in the thread. sorry for the bump.

 

Just had my car repaired from a flashing engine cel and misfire, compression tested fine and all is well after replacing coils, plugs and wires for $1300. Everytime I come to this forum I see others having issues with the same year and mileage as my car which concerns me. My car is running like new at the moment, maybe I should dump it before it incurs more costs. I understand other cars have issues too but a lot of my friends aren't racking up these kinds of bills for their issues. Hard to believe my 81 RX-7 I drove past 250,000 kms with little problems and regular maintenance, to top it off it only flooded a couple times and was little work to get going again. My RX-8 flooded on my after a 20 min drive and it cost me $2200 to get it running again after plugs, starter, battery, labour, this, that...

Meanwhile the RENESIS wins so many awards? THey should wait some years before handing those out. I was a big rotary supporter but this RX-8 is sure changing that. Oh yeah...rotories are more reliable than piston engines, they have way less moving parts!! Sure they are.

Ok...rant over...my apologies.

 

You paid $1300 for replacing plugs, wires and coils plus the compression test?
That's the problem right there...

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...v+valve&page=2

Here is a link for a DIY cleaning on the SSV valve, job sure doenst look easy but if ya have the time may be worth it

 

I didn't read this whole thread but i had this same problem and i managed to get rid of my CEL by pouring 1 can of Seafoam in ~2 gallons of gas. Drove the **** out of it until i was almost out of fuel. Filled up with another 2 gallons of fuel, poured in a can of Seafoam, drove the **** out of it and then filled it up completely with fuel and went on my way. I haven't had an issue since and that was at least 20k ago.

 

^Which could work... if your problem isn't related to a stuck SSV.