I imagine I may have a few questions over the next week or so making sure I have everything correct, I will keep all my questions in one place.

Yesterday I had the pleasure of drilling out a snapped off bolt for Eccentric shaft sensor , re tapped that lying under the car that was fun.

onto cooling hoses
Every diagram

I can find shows a different layout than how my car was hooked up from previous owner.
The heater hose and return line from exp tank were reveresed , car ran like that.
the part that has me really thrown is the contours of the hoses are such that to run it how the workshop manual shows would create kinks in my lines, the only natural way for these hoses to sit it as shown in my picture ?


I do know previous owner had recently changed the rad so had they simply reconnected it wrong ? But doesnt help explain my contour situation espcially the lower return hose it would create a near 90degree kink to have it hooked straight to middle bottom pipe ?

 

now I am wondering if it even matters. Seems highly likely they are both inlets into the thermostat . The car def ran with it like that.
I thought maybe instead of mixing the hoses up previous owner had them completely off for rad install and mixed them up but swapping them does not change the akward bend I cannot avoid If I hook it up like the manual says?

Got this and trying to get presure into clutch pedal with new slave and master , using vacuum bleeder and gettting fluid through but still no pressure in the pedal, keep trying..

 

Have a look here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...iagram-183083/
Thread 17 shows is quite good.
You're correct two times, it's wrongly connected and it should change anything as both connections link to the same area internally.
I guess if you remove the hoses you will see that they have some tension in their current position.

 

I appreciate your reply. The diagram and discussion you linked is what led me to wonder why mine was.not the same.

I have got replies from others on a fb rx8 group that say it can be run both ways and people have seen it set up both ways from the factory.

Would love this forum to confirm that,
Mp0klp but at this point Im leaning towards it can be done both ways as they are both inbound coolant

 

Technically it won't matter if you leave like it is now or swap the two hoses. I'm quite sure though Mazda did deliver it the other way around, this is how the rubber hoses are bend in their natural position.
I'd just swap them around the next time you flush the cooling system...

 

2 more plugs I am not sure
one near oil filter and other next to coolant overflow


then the 2 small tubes at bottom of radiator should theae both be capped ?.someone said they are for auto trans cars ?

 

So pretty sure the connecter next to coolant overflow was for ac ?

 

The first one should be the ACs pressure switch.

The second looks like the connector to the forward O2-sensor. Is usually has a plastic clip on it to connect it to the metal bracket in the vicinity but that might be broken (mine is). The O2-sensor has has a cable long enough from the exhaust manifold to the connector up there.
The capped connectors on the radiator are for automatic transmission fluid cooling, if you have a manual transmission, leave them capped.

 

Awesome thank you very much.
i got confused on the 02 sensors. Previous owner cut out cat and put a straight pipe so rear 02 is gone.(just figuring this out)
Your right the front 02 is very long , long enough to attach to the wrong 02 !

I am pretty sure I have absolutely nothing unknown just need to put intake, battery and fluids in her and she is ready to start Im getting excited !
its been a year long process and a lot of time and money.

 

The front O2 sensor has a pin that attachs it to the transmission.
If the rear sensor is removed it will give you a CEL about the converter is not working as supposed. If you do not want to fit a new one, this can be solved via software or hardware (something like this: € 4,68 25%OFF | Auto Sauerstoff O2 Sensor Adapter CEL Fix Check Engine Licht Eliminator M18 * 1,5 Extender Adapter Fitting Eliminator Test Rohr
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQ1DIiT)
If there is no sensor only software will work.
Hope for the best!

 

FIRED UP ON FIRST SHOT SO HAPPY

I would Never have attempted this without the help and resources of this forum thanks to everyone who answered me over the last year of learning

 

Update

Done about 2k miles keeping it under 4000rpm. I took a conservative approach since I had new bearings and all new seals.
Car feels good but can tell it doesnt like to live below 4k.

Codes I had as soon as I started to break the car in are

p2004 , intake manifold runner stuck open
p0410 secondary air ( its deleted )
p2270 rear 02
p0139 also rear 02 ?

So I started to bring the revs up gradually and still feel and sounds great right up to about 6k rpm then feels like a heavy misfire but no codes

So I know the list of things to check and am going to start with secondary injector wiring to confrim its correct , but I did it with the engine out and went right down to individual wire colours as I had read about that exact problem and didnt want to mess them up so really dont think that is it but going to check

Then , could my apv stuck open cause a heavy misfire with no code as well ?
Could a really shitty 02 sensor cause it as well ?

 

New wires and coils , OEM and NPboosted OE version coils , OE and NGK wires all produce same result
Spark plugs I got new last year before the rebuld when I first bought the car and ran it a few times on one rotor with these plugs

 

I have confirmed my injector wiring is correct.

I think I am settled on this p2004 intake manifold runner stuck open.
this would /could cause a hard misfire feeling around 6k rpm ?

I took the apv motor off it works when cycling the key.
the gears on the back are quite stiff to move by hand. Which confused me because I took the runners out, the rack and gears on the inside when engine was out cleaned everything and it moved freely by hand from the iinside but I will admit I never took off the apv motor when I had the engine out only knew they moved well from inside.
now I have done 2500km.2500km on rebuild and wanting to rev higher get to 6k and feel like a massive misfire studder.
so i then found this picture about how properly align the inner gears which I had never seen until now and am afraid that was possibly what I did wrong and would make sone sense why the rear gears are stiff but everything moved well on the inside ?