Metering Oil Pump
12-29-2010, 08:55 AM
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Metering Oil Pump
Hello, I am from the UK and have posted my problem on the UK RX8 Forum, but I thought I should post here too in case nobody on the UK forum can answer my problem. Here is my post below:
I have had my second hand RX8 for about 5 months now. Its a 2005 230 BHP
I was driving to work and the engine had a sudden loss of power and made some strange noises, the engine warning light came on and the power reduced dramatically. I also noticed my engine oil pressure gauge kept dropping then coming back on again.
I managed to drive the car but it was at reduced power, the power seemed to come back on and then go again but was still driving and got me the last few miles to work.
I got the RAC to come out and they checked the oil level, it was quite low they had to put another couple of litres in to get it back up to required level.
I got the car towed to my local Mazda dealer and they looked at it and told me I needed my coil packs replacing.
They did this and then said the engine was still not working properly but the pressure was now okay.
After looking at it a bit further they are saying they think the metering oil pump needs replacing as too much oil is getting pumped into the engine and the car is spitting oil out of the exhaust.
They are quoting me a further £1300 to provide and fit a new metering oil pump.
I am loathed to spend this much money if this is not the actual problem but perhaps something else that is wrong with the engine.
Has anyone experienced this before, or know if there maybe some other checks that can be done to help pinpoint the actual problem.
Or know where I can get a cheap MOP or even better a second hand one.
Any help appreciated.
*** Now I have had a search on the forum to find posts about OMP (or POM) problems but I'm not that technical and am not sure that the previous problems are the same as mine, this is mainly down to the fact most people are talking about not enough oil being pumped through, but my mazda repair centre are telling me they its pumping too much oil and its coming right through the exhaust.
I'm not sure I trust them as they want to charge me over £1000 ($1500) to supply and fit a new pump but they say they cant gaurentee this will fix it but may have to strip the engine to check for further faults.
Obviously I dont want to do this so would appreciate any help on how I would know if its definately the Metering oil pump that is the issue.
Thanks
Jim
I have had my second hand RX8 for about 5 months now. Its a 2005 230 BHP
I was driving to work and the engine had a sudden loss of power and made some strange noises, the engine warning light came on and the power reduced dramatically. I also noticed my engine oil pressure gauge kept dropping then coming back on again.
I managed to drive the car but it was at reduced power, the power seemed to come back on and then go again but was still driving and got me the last few miles to work.
I got the RAC to come out and they checked the oil level, it was quite low they had to put another couple of litres in to get it back up to required level.
I got the car towed to my local Mazda dealer and they looked at it and told me I needed my coil packs replacing.
They did this and then said the engine was still not working properly but the pressure was now okay.
After looking at it a bit further they are saying they think the metering oil pump needs replacing as too much oil is getting pumped into the engine and the car is spitting oil out of the exhaust.
They are quoting me a further £1300 to provide and fit a new metering oil pump.
I am loathed to spend this much money if this is not the actual problem but perhaps something else that is wrong with the engine.
Has anyone experienced this before, or know if there maybe some other checks that can be done to help pinpoint the actual problem.
Or know where I can get a cheap MOP or even better a second hand one.
Any help appreciated.
*** Now I have had a search on the forum to find posts about OMP (or POM) problems but I'm not that technical and am not sure that the previous problems are the same as mine, this is mainly down to the fact most people are talking about not enough oil being pumped through, but my mazda repair centre are telling me they its pumping too much oil and its coming right through the exhaust.
I'm not sure I trust them as they want to charge me over £1000 ($1500) to supply and fit a new pump but they say they cant gaurentee this will fix it but may have to strip the engine to check for further faults.
Obviously I dont want to do this so would appreciate any help on how I would know if its definately the Metering oil pump that is the issue.
Thanks
Jim
12-29-2010, 09:36 AM
#2
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First things first. What trouble codes did the car show? The problem you describe sounds like bad coils but there is a detailed procedure for testing bad coils and obviously if you are still having problem then it obviously was not the coils.
If the Oil metering pump is bad, it will put your car into limp mode (low rpm limit, etc.) most of the time but Oil metering pumps have been known to fail without throwing a CEL (check engine light).
So we really need to know what codes are showing up in the computer to see what is going on.
If the Oil metering pump is bad, it will put your car into limp mode (low rpm limit, etc.) most of the time but Oil metering pumps have been known to fail without throwing a CEL (check engine light).
So we really need to know what codes are showing up in the computer to see what is going on.
12-29-2010, 09:39 AM
#3
Not likely the pump is magically pumping too much oil. If the pump quits..it usually doesn't pump enough oil...and you usually will get a CEL code...They should be able to figure that out. The iDS will let them change the pump values up and down to test it as well. If you do need a pump..you should be able to pick up a used one for a lot less than that 
I would be suspect if they just want to keep throwing parts at it......
Running 2 litres short isn't great You need to read the manual...there are some good tidbits in there....
I would be suspect if they just want to keep throwing parts at it......
Running 2 litres short isn't great
You need to read the manual...there are some good tidbits in there....
12-29-2010, 09:43 AM
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Yeah I hate that many places throw parts at a problem. I had it out with my dealership years ago about my coils when they could not show me the test results for the coils after telling me I needed new coils before they could authorize the new motor.
12-29-2010, 09:45 AM
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First things first. What trouble codes did the car show? The problem you describe sounds like bad coils but there is a detailed procedure for testing bad coils and obviously if you are still having problem then it obviously was not the coils.
If the Oil metering pump is bad, it will put your car into limp mode (low rpm limit, etc.) most of the time but Oil metering pumps have been known to fail without throwing a CEL (check engine light).
So we really need to know what codes are showing up in the computer to see what is going on.
If the Oil metering pump is bad, it will put your car into limp mode (low rpm limit, etc.) most of the time but Oil metering pumps have been known to fail without throwing a CEL (check engine light).
So we really need to know what codes are showing up in the computer to see what is going on.
I will try and find out if there is still an engine light warning and what codes its throwing up.
12-29-2010, 09:49 AM
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The have replaced the coil packs already as that was what the codes were pointing to, after have done this they are saying the engine still isnt running correctly and that it smoking badly out of the exhaust and they think its due to too much oil being pumped. But they arent sure that just replacing the pump will fix it, but want to try that first, which i dont want to pay £1300 for that doing to then find there are other problems as I dont have enough money to keep paying for more and more things doing.
I will try and find out if there is still an engine light warning and what codes its throwing up.
I will try and find out if there is still an engine light warning and what codes its throwing up.
Yeah, it's not injecting too much oil. You have other issues my friend. Please post up the codes and we will go from there.
12-29-2010, 10:05 AM
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Apparantly now the codes are cleared after the coilpack change and there are no codes coming up at all, but they are suspecting the issue is with the oil pump due to the oil and smoke coming out of the exhaust.
Would it be worth driving the car in this condition to see if running it a bit resolves the issue?
12-29-2010, 10:12 AM
#8
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Right the codes that came up were P0301 cylinder 1 misfire and P0300 Random misfire.
Apparantly now the codes are cleared after the coilpack change and there are no codes coming up at all, but they are suspecting the issue is with the oil pump due to the oil and smoke coming out of the exhaust.
Would it be worth driving the car in this condition to see if running it a bit resolves the issue?
Apparantly now the codes are cleared after the coilpack change and there are no codes coming up at all, but they are suspecting the issue is with the oil pump due to the oil and smoke coming out of the exhaust.
Would it be worth driving the car in this condition to see if running it a bit resolves the issue?
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 12-29-2010 at 10:15 AM.
12-29-2010, 10:19 AM
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What color is the smoke? You might want to get a compression check done using a rotary engine compression tester before you spend anymore money. Also , did they check the catalytic converter? It can get damaged and become clogged, causing excess heat to flow back into the engine and damage it.
12-29-2010, 10:19 AM
#10
I would take it out to a highway and drive the st out of it and get it good and hot...
If it idles fairly well it should be OK. if it has been misfiring for a while there is a likelyhood that the exhaust will be a bit crapped up.....
Like was said...the CAT may not be in the best shape as well.....but take it and drive it for a while with the new coils and see what happens
t out of it and get it good and hot... If it idles fairly well it should be OK. if it has been misfiring for a while there is a likelyhood that the exhaust will be a bit crapped up.....
Like was said...the CAT may not be in the best shape as well.....but take it and drive it for a while with the new coils and see what happens
12-29-2010, 11:56 AM
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I asked them about the CAT and they said that if there was a CAT problem an error code would have come up for that.
I asked them if I should try driving it and they said they didnt recommend that, but it may be my only shot.
Its hardly been driven at all since it started misfiring, I only drove a few miles further and then it got towed to the garage, who have not driven it, just been playing with the engine whilst car has been in the garage.
On the UK forum people seem to think the fact that I was driving the car with low oil could me that I've damaged the engine and it needs a re-buid or even a new one which would be too costly for me to afford, and Mazda seem to think that could be the case also (although they wanted to try a new metering pump first) and are saying stripping the engine down to search for faults would probably end up being very expensive and they still may not find the fault straight away.
I asked them if I should try driving it and they said they didnt recommend that, but it may be my only shot.
Its hardly been driven at all since it started misfiring, I only drove a few miles further and then it got towed to the garage, who have not driven it, just been playing with the engine whilst car has been in the garage.
On the UK forum people seem to think the fact that I was driving the car with low oil could me that I've damaged the engine and it needs a re-buid or even a new one which would be too costly for me to afford, and Mazda seem to think that could be the case also (although they wanted to try a new metering pump first) and are saying stripping the engine down to search for faults would probably end up being very expensive and they still may not find the fault straight away.
12-29-2010, 12:01 PM
#14
Running it low on oil would hurt the bearings...not the seals or anything....so if you have good oil pressure and seems OK...you will not hurt anything by driving it.....
Sounds like all they really know what to do is to check codes and replace parts....if your car is out of warranty I would look for a good rotary mechanic someplace with a brain
ps: I drove without a CAT for 2 months before the CEL came on...so if that is the only criteria they use for doing things they don't have many skills....definitly not enough to diagnose a MOP " failure" based on too much oil
Sounds like all they really know what to do is to check codes and replace parts....if your car is out of warranty I would look for a good rotary mechanic someplace with a brain
ps: I drove without a CAT for 2 months before the CEL came on...so if that is the only criteria they use for doing things they don't have many skills....definitly not enough to diagnose a MOP " failure" based on too much oil
12-30-2010, 04:42 AM
#16
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How many miles has it done??
I agree with others, Usually a failed Metering Oil Pump (MOP) will use less oil not more.
Frankly if it is throwing that much oil out the exhaust I am thinking Oil Control Rings., possibly either cracked or worn out, or it could be a damaged/worn oil control ring O ring(s).
I am leaning more towards an engine rebuild, Take it to a rotary Specialist in UK.
You bought it second hand, who knows what the previous owner may or may not have done.
I agree with others, Usually a failed Metering Oil Pump (MOP) will use less oil not more.
Frankly if it is throwing that much oil out the exhaust I am thinking Oil Control Rings., possibly either cracked or worn out, or it could be a damaged/worn oil control ring O ring(s).
I am leaning more towards an engine rebuild, Take it to a rotary Specialist in UK.
You bought it second hand, who knows what the previous owner may or may not have done.
12-30-2010, 12:04 PM
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Right I spoke to a very nice man at Hayworth Rotary North in the UK (MX5motors.com) and after explaining all that had happened he also concurred that the likely problem is the rotor oil seals need replacing.
This unfortunatley is an engine rebuild and would cost from £2000 upwards.
I went and collected my car from the Mazda garage and drove it away, only to find that within 2 minutes the engine warning light started flashing again.
Driving the car was a bit strange, the power would come and go and seemed better the faster and higher revs I drove, and was very stuttery at low speeds like slowing down for junctions etc. Which is all probably compression related.
I've obtained as much info as possible from the garage and is as follows:
Written on back of jobcard:
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire
P0300 Random Misfire
Inspected and found spark plugs carboned up and 2 coil packs inoperable
Supplied and Fitted new setsof plugs and coil packs
Vehicle still misfiring and smoking
engine oil low and excess amount of oil in Engine rear chamber only
checked compression and front chamber okay
Rear Chamber pressure high.
Read outs from the pressure test were as follows:
cyl1 cly2
7.9 8.1
8.0 9.6
7.5 9.0
This unfortunatley is an engine rebuild and would cost from £2000 upwards.
I went and collected my car from the Mazda garage and drove it away, only to find that within 2 minutes the engine warning light started flashing again.
Driving the car was a bit strange, the power would come and go and seemed better the faster and higher revs I drove, and was very stuttery at low speeds like slowing down for junctions etc. Which is all probably compression related.
I've obtained as much info as possible from the garage and is as follows:
Written on back of jobcard:
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire
P0300 Random Misfire
Inspected and found spark plugs carboned up and 2 coil packs inoperable
Supplied and Fitted new setsof plugs and coil packs
Vehicle still misfiring and smoking
engine oil low and excess amount of oil in Engine rear chamber only
checked compression and front chamber okay
Rear Chamber pressure high.
Read outs from the pressure test were as follows:
cyl1 cly2
7.9 8.1
8.0 9.6
7.5 9.0
12-30-2010, 12:24 PM
#18
Sounds like oil control rings in the rear rotor....good thing is you don't have compression loss
You might be able to do a rebuild with most of your stock parts and not need much more than some new seals
Sucks
Any legal remedy to the scammer garage you bought it from?
You might be able to do a rebuild with most of your stock parts and not need much more than some new seals
Sucks
Any legal remedy to the scammer garage you bought it from?
07-15-2019, 03:07 AM
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Dispensing oil pump stepper motor control circuit 4
I got P1688 and more spesific information is ”Dispensing oil pump stepper motor control circuit 4”.
I changed the oil pump but I guess there is something eron with the electricity before oil pump and stepper motor.
Have any idea what should I do?
Check for the wires and if there is not electricity in one (number 4) of them?
I changed the oil pump but I guess there is something eron with the electricity before oil pump and stepper motor.
Have any idea what should I do?
Check for the wires and if there is not electricity in one (number 4) of them?
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