About a week ago I was turning onto my street after about a 10 mile drive and as I turned the corner I lost all power in the car. pulled over waited a second and it started right up. The next day the same thing happened just I caught it before it died completely and it was clearly misfiring and without giving it gas it would have died again. Now every time the engine temperature reaches the normal running temperature it starts to misfire again. scanned the check engine light and it came up as multiple misfires, cylinder one misfiring and crankshaft positioning sensor A. I'm baffled. Any suggestions?

 

Plenty.

This sounds like the fuel pump. Fuel pump failure is typically overheating, and it stops pumping fuel, causing the engine to shut off without affecting the electrical, giving you normal steering, lights, etc... Letting it cool off usually produces a normal startup and the driver scratching their head with "wtf was that?"

However, the one exception I have is that usually it is a wait time of 20-30 minutes. Not a second. Makes me wonder about other issues.

This COULD be fuel pump, just having trouble delivering the gas, but again, they usually don't correct themselves so quickly.

This sounds like compression, as the compression is better when it's cold, and worse as it warms up (even with a good engine), however it could also be temp affecting your plugs, wires, or coils.

This is the most helpful bit. "Cylinder 1" is the front rotor. The fact that you have the "crankshaft" code means this might be a really easy fix. On the front of the engine, next to the main pulley, is our e-shaft position sensor. If this gets dirty, fouled, or knocked about, it can cause all sorts of issues, depending on the actual specific details. Get in there and clean it with a can of MAF cleaner. Check the harness running to it and the connector within that harness. Get it all clean.

See if that fixes the issue. If not, come back.

 

Thanks a lot bud. The only time it did correct itself was the first time it happened and I only had to drive it a few blocks so that might be it man. But thank you a lot for the input man I'll try to clean it and see if that helps!

 

sounds like an open loop / closed loop timing issue. as Pearl says check the eshaft sensor is clean etc and then do a 20 brake stomp reset

 

Coils can fail like that as well...they get warm and quit working.

Try the reset first.....

How many miles on the car? Has it had coils changed in the last 50K miles?

I normally wouldn't recommend throwing parts at a problem...but old coils are a super common problem with these cars

 

That was my first guess because i havent changed those since I bought the car at 46000 miles and it's the only part in the ignition system I havent replaced yet. And I'm at 71000 miles now. But I've actually never heard of that reset. How should that be done because that definately sounds like something I should know about in the future

 

Yeah, your coils are likely shot too at this point. Even if the prior owner changed them properly at 30k, it puts you at 41k on coils.

 

Well now I just went out to try and start it and its not even trying to start. The starter is turning it over but none of the cylinders are firing

 

see my last post, plus getting the eshaft sensor cleaned.

 

Hmm so i replaced the coils just because it needed it. I still have to clean the sensor because the coils didnt change a thing. How is the 20 brake pedal stomp done? Just put it in the on position and stomp on the pedal 20 times within 5 seconds?

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=sire%3Arx8club.com+20+brake+

edit: and to answer, yes, that is the jist of the 20 brake pedal (NVRAM reset)

 

Alright thanks man