My RX8 is driving me Crazy. Please help.
#1
My RX8 is driving me Crazy. Please help.
So I have a 08 RX8 rebuilt recently. Compression tested when hot and compression is great. But it bogs down when trying to accelerate from a complete stop. I feel intermiten power loss through the rev range sometimes. I’m nearing my limit with it. But I would never sell it. It’s my pain/pleasure working on it. I’d like to get her all healthy and able to cruise without problems. Fuel trims are good at idle but jump high when I accelerate. From 3-5+ to 14+
What I have changed:
Fuel Pump
spark plugs
Coils
wires
MAF
SSV Valve ( still ticks even though it’s new)
What I have changed:
Fuel Pump
spark plugs
Coils
wires
MAF
SSV Valve ( still ticks even though it’s new)
Last edited by Juan Bechara; 04-27-2020 at 02:41 PM.
#2
A little more info.
So if I’m at a complete stop and I press the gas it bogs and has no power or it might almost shut off. It’s not until I reach 3.5k that it picks it self up and gets going. I changed the fuel pump cause it was going out and changed wires and plugs as well as coils. But nothing helps the situation. It isles okay and it’s been recently learning to stay on with A/C (thinking the compressor is going out)
my fuel trims at idle are okay but when I accelerate its increases to 14 or above positive.
no cats!
my fuel trims at idle are okay but when I accelerate its increases to 14 or above positive.
no cats!
Last edited by Juan Bechara; 04-28-2020 at 02:59 AM.
#3
Fuel trims are meant to be read at steady state in a given load interval. If you watch them while giving inputs they will jump around for sure.
Do you have any codes? What is the airflow and long term fuel trim on a steady warm idle?
Also are you saying it had difficulty staying on with A/C on?
Do you have any codes? What is the airflow and long term fuel trim on a steady warm idle?
Also are you saying it had difficulty staying on with A/C on?
#4
Fuel trims are meant to be read at steady state in a given load interval. If you watch them while giving inputs they will jump around for sure.
Do you have any codes? What is the airflow and long term fuel trim on a steady warm idle?
Also are you saying it had difficulty staying on with A/C on?
Do you have any codes? What is the airflow and long term fuel trim on a steady warm idle?
Also are you saying it had difficulty staying on with A/C on?
stock air box, steady warm idle is around +4
yes A/C is something I struggle with but seems to stop doing it as much if I drive the heck out of it.
#6
#8
the SSV only has a code for being stuck open so perhaps you did something wrong there with it ticking too, that generally indicates a bad motor but since you messed with it there might be more to the problem
the engine runs on primary fuel injectors until the SSV and secondary injectors come on line around 3800 - 4000 rpm, might be bad at higher cycle/flow rates, used high mileage injectors on a new rebuild is not the best idea
Not that I don’t trust you, but what is the actual compression test information?
the engine runs on primary fuel injectors until the SSV and secondary injectors come on line around 3800 - 4000 rpm, might be bad at higher cycle/flow rates, used high mileage injectors on a new rebuild is not the best idea
Not that I don’t trust you, but what is the actual compression test information?
#9
No prob i don’t mind sharing my compression numbers. I get 86 on each side. My ssv code is that annoying p0661. got new solenoids just in case
i notice I have literally no power at low rpms until around 4000. After that I’m good to go on speed and response.
i notice I have literally no power at low rpms until around 4000. After that I’m good to go on speed and response.
#11
the SSV only has a code for being stuck open so perhaps you did something wrong there with it ticking too, that generally indicates a bad motor but since you messed with it there might be more to the problem
the engine runs on primary fuel injectors until the SSV and secondary injectors come on line around 3800 - 4000 rpm, might be bad at higher cycle/flow rates, used high mileage injectors on a new rebuild is not the best idea
Not that I don’t trust you, but what is the actual compression test information?
the engine runs on primary fuel injectors until the SSV and secondary injectors come on line around 3800 - 4000 rpm, might be bad at higher cycle/flow rates, used high mileage injectors on a new rebuild is not the best idea
Not that I don’t trust you, but what is the actual compression test information?
#13
ill keep you updated.
#14
Ok you have the same opposite problem of mine no power after 4k rpm it fluctuates up and down after 4k dies at idle
#15
I’m leaning on injectors cause everything else is changed and compression is good.
so my theory is either my AT is trashed or my Injectors are clogged.
both are good theories cause my AT didn’t want to up shift to 5,6 yesterday but is feeling better.
#16
All I read is is problems after 4K but mines is under.
I’m leaning on injectors cause everything else is changed and compression is good.
so my theory is either my AT is trashed or my Injectors are clogged.
both are good theories cause my AT didn’t want to up shift to 5,6 yesterday but is feeling better.
I’m leaning on injectors cause everything else is changed and compression is good.
so my theory is either my AT is trashed or my Injectors are clogged.
both are good theories cause my AT didn’t want to up shift to 5,6 yesterday but is feeling better.
#17
Mines a manual rebuilt engine new fuel pump ess sensor it was dying after half a tank of gas first then when it idled after when they changed the fuel pump all the codes disappeared and then came back after 4 days the p00 one you have didn't die at idle for 4 days then began dying at idle again but entire time after 4k fluctuating power and codes are back
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