Okay so i had the engine on my 05 shinka replaced about 110 miles ago. Start it up after work today and it starts chuffing. Manage to get it home but it's misfiring at high rpms and the idle is dropping and jumping all over the damn place. It feels fine at full acceleration but if i stop the acceleration and try and hold steady it starts feeling like ***. Plugs and coils were replaced less than 10k miles ago. The ess is cleaned and the nvram and kam cleared. Plugs and coils were checked and look fine. Two plugs had small white spots on the bottom but i have good spark on all plugs. What am i missing. The auto part store that read the codes says its my front o2 sensor but shouldn't that throw a code if that was my issue? Also i have no cat, it is a gutted cat so no clogs for me.

CEL P0172, P0420, P0335, P2259, P0300
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Was the replacement engine used or rebuilt? How did the previous engine go? Who did the swap and what have they said?

 

P0172
System too rich. Check your MAF and front O2 sensors. Make sure your injector wiring is correct. Make sure your injectors aren't leaking.

P0420
Your rear O2 sensor isn't plugged in or is bad or your cat is shot.

P0335
ESS circuit problem. Check your ESS and tone wheel. Make sure both are clean and re-seat the ESS connector. Reset the KAM and NVRAM.

P0300
Random misfires. Stop driving the car until you fix everything. A misfire will destroy your new engine. This could be caused by the ESS problem.

P2259
The solenoid controlling the air injection pump is bad, the wiring to it is bad or it's not connected. Unplug/replug the 3 connectors on the back side of the upper intake manifold (between the black plastic and the firewall). If that doesn't fix it, buy and see if it does.

 

As 9Krpmrx8 says , who did the engine swap? Take it back to them and relate all the codes as NotAPreppie noted.. Sounds like they did no proper testing after installing engine. Make them take care of you now.

 

It was a used engine with ~43000 miles replaced by my mazda dealership. I don't want to take it back because it took them over a month to install the new engine after they pulled the old one. It seems like i may have fixed it though. I pulled the airbox and accordion tube, sprayed them liberally with maf cleaner and degreaser to clean both. Ess looked clean but i hit it with contact cleaner just to be sure. Pulled the plug on it and hit that with contact cleaner too. Pulled the battery for 45 minutes and reseated all the plug wires and coil connections as well as contact cleanered the coil connectors. Pulled the room fuse to clear the kam again, and reinstalled everything. Cleared the nvram again amd started it up. It acted like *** for a moment but i held it at 3k rpm for a couple minutes and now the idle is back fine. I'm going to get the codes rechecked and call the dealership so they can double check everything but I'm not sure if i 100% fixed the problem. Is there a testing process for the o2 sensor just for peace of mind? I just think it's very strange that it drove fine for 110 miles, parked it to go into work, and 8 hours later it has a panic attack meltdown.

 

The previous engine went with low compression on all rotor faces. Dealership did the swap and it was a 40k used engine. I didn't call them because I'm trying to avoid taking it back and being without a car because they took over a month to install the engine after they removed the old one. I think i may have fixed it but i am going to give them a call so they can give it a once over anyways.

 

You're going to be without a car for longer if you keep driving it in its current state.

 

It hasn't misfired since and I'm getting the codes rechecked in a couple hours but it doesn't seem to have the issue anymore. The rich code and misfire could have been stemming from the ess the whole time and the cat sensor code doesn't apply to me since i have a gutted cat. As long as the misfire, ess, and rich codes have cleared i would think id be in the clear.

 

One question xanex18, was there no other option than having a 40k miles already engine swapped into your car ? Was a compression test done on that engine before the swap so you knew the engine you were getting was in good shape?

I assume you paid something for that engine and the dealer labor, correct ? How much did you save by not having a fresh reman engine swapped in ?

Hopefully proper diagnosing and correcting steps will solve your issues.

 

Hopefully you are in the clear. I can't think of a worse car decision than having the dealer install a used Renesis.

 

Hey ya i forgot to mention the reasoning. The engine was replaced under an extended warranty that carried over from the previous owner. The warranty company sucked *** though and would only approve the used engine over the reman because it was 500$ cheaper. Mazda sourced the used engine and they claim they did compression test on it but they wouldn't give me numbers. Theres a 6 month warranty on the engine and the service so i should be good for at least that long andbi plan on premixing from now on the help alleviate potential issues.

 

I agree 100% but my warranty company needed the most "cost effective" route and the used engine was somehow cheaper than the reman so they went used

 

Hopefully the $500 savings for the warranty company won't cost you much more in the long run. Try to get those compression numbers from Mazda,ok.

You didn't have the knowledge at the time, but $500 would have been worth it to pay out of your pocket for a fresh reman vs an engine with 40k miles on it.

Once your possible other issues are sorted out, you need to have that compression checked again before your warranty runs out .

Best to you.

 

Ya i was not happy at all when they said used engine over the reman. And k was fully willing to pay the difference which is how i knew there was only a 500$ difference. However the warranty company said that they would not honor the invoice in that case and id be on the hook for it. So it was either used engine under warranty or reman out of pocket for the whole repair which would have cost more than i paid for the car two years ago. I fully intend to get it checked out before the warranty goes though so i can be somewhat safe but ya, i been fighting with the dealer the past week for the numbers but they are saying if they provide the numbers to the customer then they have to charge for it which would be 250$ even though they did the test as part of the warranty work. Im beginning to think they lied and didn't run the test at all though the way they have been acting.

 

There should be no charge for results of a compression tests done under warranty. Someone is trying to pull the wool over your head here. I agree, seems they didn't run the test at all. I would contact MNAO and report this dealership and get their help.

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Not if its a 3rd party warranty. Mazda have no obligation to pay for that test if they aren't the warranty provider.

 

The OP says that the dealer did the compression test under the warranty, third-party or whatever. So that test had to have yielded numbers. Why should the OP have to pay to see those numbers?. Even if the Mazda dealer didn't provide the warranty, they did the test, according to the OP . So it had to be on their timesheets for their labor to be covered by that third-party warranty. So if they refuse to give him the numbers, yes he should be able to appeal to MNAO.

If it was my situation I would demand the numbers and contact MNAO if the dealer refused to give them.

 

The symptoms you experienced sound a lot like what happens when the ECU is having to relearn/remap (or whatever it's called) after work is done on the engine. Perhaps it has successfully done that.

 

New Yorker is right, it takes a couple of drive cycles for the ECU to relearn the proper trims after the engine work was done.

 

Sounded like this started after a period of time that it ran normally?

It would b worth it to get a compression test about a month before the warranty runs out just to be sure. Sooner if it still runs like crap

 

That's what i was initially thinking. the trip odometer only had 4 miles on it when i picked it up at the dealer and that didnt seem like time enough to relearn, but it lasted 110 miles running flawless so i was very confused. The issue seems to have passed though now only the cel is for the air pump solenoid and the cat being gutted. Ill probably pick up a handful of those solnoids and replace them all at the same time.

 

Ya i went ahead and called the warranty company and they said they were never billed for the test but they saw it notated in the work order. So they ran the test and didn't charge for it or something. either way the warranty company called em and put some pressure on em i guess cuz they told me some numbers yesterday. Told me thte rotots were 8.4 at 248rpm and 8.2 at 247. So i think the expected is supposed to be between 8.5 and 9 on a brand new but i was told this was within spec of where it is expected to be on a 40k engine.

 

That is some help with those figures. But a proper rotary engine compression test will yield six numbers, three for each face of each of the two rotors. All normalized to 250rpm (of the starter) and sealevel altitude. You can see where those numbers place you on our RX8club rotary compression test numbers chart.