New Engine or Just a Rebuild? Help.
#1
New Engine or Just a Rebuild? Help.
Confused here with which one I need, maybe the community could shed some light upon me:
was driving along the freeway one day, felt a loss of power so i got off the gas then pressed on it again. the car then drove sluggish from 6k rpm on up. so i cruised back home (about 20 miles) parked it for a few days. after about 2 days pass i took it for a ride to see if the problem would repeat. it did not. ever since that day there has been no problem what so ever. drives normal, no loss of power, no sluggish feeling, and pick up is back to the norm.
Car has about 77k miles on it. 2004 6spd. oil changed frequently. fully synthetic.
my car is not under warranty so a new motor would suck a$$.
research ive done:
read up on the new engine club thread
searched and read threads under "Marbles in a can" (seems similar to my problem, except i didnt hear the sound)
mostly what i was interesting in is having the engine rebuilt by CRH and possibly ported by mazdatrix if possible??
please help asap.
was driving along the freeway one day, felt a loss of power so i got off the gas then pressed on it again. the car then drove sluggish from 6k rpm on up. so i cruised back home (about 20 miles) parked it for a few days. after about 2 days pass i took it for a ride to see if the problem would repeat. it did not. ever since that day there has been no problem what so ever. drives normal, no loss of power, no sluggish feeling, and pick up is back to the norm.
Car has about 77k miles on it. 2004 6spd. oil changed frequently. fully synthetic.
my car is not under warranty so a new motor would suck a$$.
research ive done:
read up on the new engine club thread
searched and read threads under "Marbles in a can" (seems similar to my problem, except i didnt hear the sound)
mostly what i was interesting in is having the engine rebuilt by CRH and possibly ported by mazdatrix if possible??
please help asap.
#3
due to that experience i feel something is wrong because obviously thats not normal. and im the type to solve something before it goes horribly wrong and could be dangerous to myself and/or others around.
if this is a sign of a future failing engine id like to get it fixed before it fails during driving.
if this is a sign of a future failing engine id like to get it fixed before it fails during driving.
#4
Rotary , eh?
iTrader: (1)
It could have been one of 18 million things. For example the car was on the verge of overheating (was it hot outside?) and the PCM pulled timing. In that case the engine would be perfectly fine.
If you want to know about the health of your motor go to a dealership or rotary specific mechanic and have them do a compression test.
If you want to know about the health of your motor go to a dealership or rotary specific mechanic and have them do a compression test.
#5
Rotary , eh?
iTrader: (1)
And a failing rotary motor won't hurt anyone. It probably won't even strand you on the side of a road like a failed piston motor. Because the 2 rotors work basically independently of each other you could blow a seal on 1 rotor and limp the car along on only 1 rotor to get home, get it somewhere to fix it, etc.
#6
so basically a compression test will let me know the status of my motor? thanks for the quick help, i really do appreciate it. and sorry for the noobness. basically that would be the first step in figuring out what is going on?? and yes it was very hot that day, 90+
#7
Rotary , eh?
iTrader: (1)
sounds like it is no big deal if the car has returned to normal since then.
But yes to check the health of a rotary, or any other motor, a compression (and leakdown for a piston) test is where to start.
If you go to a dealership they should have an instrument that will give you 3 numbers for each rotor, 6 in total, and they should be able to give you a printout of what these numbers are. If you get it done bring them back here and post them up. Don't just let a dealership assclown tell you something like you need a new motor w/o verification.
But yes to check the health of a rotary, or any other motor, a compression (and leakdown for a piston) test is where to start.
If you go to a dealership they should have an instrument that will give you 3 numbers for each rotor, 6 in total, and they should be able to give you a printout of what these numbers are. If you get it done bring them back here and post them up. Don't just let a dealership assclown tell you something like you need a new motor w/o verification.
#9
Registered
iTrader: (2)
It could be your ignition coils. Could be a bad Catalytic Converter. Could be a bad fuel pump. Could be a clogged air filter. Could be bad gas. Could be a bad plug wire. Could be bad spark plugs.
Oh and 90 + is not hot. Our overnight low a couple of days ago was 97 degrees.
Oh and 90 + is not hot. Our overnight low a couple of days ago was 97 degrees.
#10
Easy, what would you recommend? all feedback is welcome. should i change plugs and coils? would the compression test be able to tell me if those things would need to be replaced?
#11
Registered
iTrader: (2)
How many miles on the car?
BHR can rebuild your engine, but is it necessary? I think I would just have a compression test done. But the thing that it runs fine is questionable to the compression issue. A little service history would be good. Anything replaced?
Where are you at str8hustlin?
BHR can rebuild your engine, but is it necessary? I think I would just have a compression test done. But the thing that it runs fine is questionable to the compression issue. A little service history would be good. Anything replaced?
Where are you at str8hustlin?
#14
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
compression test will tell if the motor is good or bad.
if you have flooded once or twice i would go with cat. covered under warranty..
if you have not changed the plugs in the last 20k miles i would do that first.
if you coils have not been changed that would be # two.
then the fuel pump.. it sounds a lot like that. do you premix?
mac. the new avatar cracks me up. thx.
beers
if you have flooded once or twice i would go with cat. covered under warranty..
if you have not changed the plugs in the last 20k miles i would do that first.
if you coils have not been changed that would be # two.
then the fuel pump.. it sounds a lot like that. do you premix?
mac. the new avatar cracks me up. thx.
beers
#17
How many miles on the car?
BHR can rebuild your engine, but is it necessary? I think I would just have a compression test done. But the thing that it runs fine is questionable to the compression issue. A little service history would be good. Anything replaced?
Where are you at str8hustlin?
BHR can rebuild your engine, but is it necessary? I think I would just have a compression test done. But the thing that it runs fine is questionable to the compression issue. A little service history would be good. Anything replaced?
Where are you at str8hustlin?
never had anything replaced other than fluids and tires.
#20
compression test will tell if the motor is good or bad.
if you have flooded once or twice i would go with cat. covered under warranty..
if you have not changed the plugs in the last 20k miles i would do that first.
if you coils have not been changed that would be # two.
then the fuel pump.. it sounds a lot like that. do you premix?
mac. the new avatar cracks me up. thx.
beers
if you have flooded once or twice i would go with cat. covered under warranty..
if you have not changed the plugs in the last 20k miles i would do that first.
if you coils have not been changed that would be # two.
then the fuel pump.. it sounds a lot like that. do you premix?
mac. the new avatar cracks me up. thx.
beers
i have a rp supercat.
havent changed the plugs or coils since i had the car (about 40k miles)
#24
Registered
iTrader: (2)
BHR Ignition System
Last edited by Easy_E1; 08-09-2008 at 01:46 AM.